A comparison between Dillon 650 and Hornadly LNL AP from a guy who owns both

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longdayjake

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Okay, so I own about 3k worth of reloading equipment and heaven knows I will never make or shoot enough ammo to make up my costs. I collect presses kind of the same way many of us here collect guns. I like to see how they work and how they feel and what I can do with each one. Anyway, I own two Hornady LNL AP presses that have been upgraded to the new EZject system. I recently bought a used Dillon XL650 that came with complete tool heads for 45, 40, 9mm, and .357. Each toolhead has the dies, powder measure, and powder check system. It also came with about 30 primer pickup tubes (which is cool because they work with both the Dillon and Hornady press).

So, after loading about 10k rounds on the Hornadys and this weekend I loaded my first 1000 on the Dillon I have a few impressions about the two I would like to share to guys looking at buying either one of the presses.

First off let me start by saying that the Dillon has a case feeder and I have yet to get one for the Hornadys so I can't really compare how many can be made in an hour or what not. All I am comparing in this is ease of operation and value.

So, the question you all want me to answer is this -Which one is better? Well, I must admit that they both have their pluses and minuses so let me tell you about what I like better about each machine.

Primer Feed: Well, there are things about both primer feeds that I don't like. The Hornady primer feed is easily mucked up with powder or brass shavings. This can throw off the primer feed and cause a stoppage or difficult seating. Also, with some brands of primers the primer feed will refuse to work at all so that is a major downside. I have since started using CCI primers exclusively and I haven't had any primer problems for years so for me the Hornady primer feed has been awesome. I actually prefer the Hornady to the Dillon. The Dillon primer feed works fine for me but I don't really like that you can't stop the primer feed on a Dillon. If you pull the handle, a primer is rotated and you have to pick it up and put it back in the tube. This would be fine if I never got a stoppage, but I did. Maybe the stoppages will get fewer as I load more on the Dillon so its not a huge deal. The two priming systems are vastly different. The Dillon takes a little more time to setup than the Hornady but I think it has the potential to be more reliable and cause less stoppages so the setup time might be made up in less time fiddling with it. However, I feel the Hornady is easier to troubleshoot if there is a problem.

The case retention system is clearly superior on the Hornady. If there is a problem during the process, it is much easier to remove and replace a casing on the Hornady system. The case retaining spring on the Hornady easily moves out of the way whereas the pins on the Dillon need to be pulled out and put back in. I spent about three minutes looking for one pin after I dropped it on my messy garage floor.

It is possible to double charge on both presses. The problem with the Hornady press (a problem that I know has blown up at least two guns) is that in the chance that the decapping pin pulls a primer half way back up into the primer pocket the Hornady press will bind up. The only way to fix that problem is to pull the handle again to push the primer all the way out. Well, if you pull the handle twice on the same station that means you get double the powder charge on the next station. A new reloader may be distracted by the decapping stage and may forget to check the powder stage. KABOOM. This is less likely to happen with the Dillon because it will allow a half primed casing to spin around on the press without binding. The primer stage will just reset the used primer. This is kind of annoying because you will get a loaded round with a used primer. The only way I found to avoid this on both presses is to use the Dillon spring loaded sizing/decapping die.

I definately like the way the Dillon flares on the powder station. However, I think the Dillon powder measure leaves a lot to be desired. It is much more time consuming to set up than the Hornady and its jumpy and rough working. That said, it appears to work just as well as the Hornady and though I don't load trail boss I hear it does a better job than Hornady measures with Trail Boss. I have yet to try it with stick powders but my guess is that neither measure will do an excellent job with it. I know that the Hornady Measure doesn't do too well with stick powders.

The Hornady system for spent primers is far superior. I'm still trying to figure out how to rig up something for the Dillon that will work well. The cup just sucks.

I think the ejection system for the Dillon is better. I have had issues with the EZ ject system not doing a perfect job and so far the Dillon wire has been flawless.

I like how much easier it is to seat primers on the Dillon. However, I have noticed that it is harder to tell when the primers aren't quite lined up and I get a few smashed primers on the Dillon. The Hornady takes a little more force to seat a primer but it is easier to feel when things aren't quite lined up right.

I really wish I could compare the case feeders because I found the Dillon case feeder to be a pain in the butt to set up. It does seem to feed perfectly every time though.

I prefer the Hornady bushings over the Dillon tool heads. I don't like having the tool heads taking up a ton of space on the bench. I can put the dies and bushings inside a die box and store them that way. Its just less clutter.

Both Hornady and Dillon have excellent customer service.

This isn't really about the press, but the Dillon sizing/decapping die is FAR superior to any other that I have tried.

So, here is my final evaluation. The Dillon is a great press with awesome customer service. You should not feel bad about owning a Dillon if you own one and you shouldn't hesitate to get one if you can afford it. That said, I feel that the Hornady press is a better value. It's much cheaper to get the full Hornady setup plus you get free bullets. My biggest complaint about the Dillon is that it has many more parts and it just takes more time to set up. Both presses can pump out ammunition once you learn each press's particular nuances. If I were to compare the presses to handguns I would say that the Dillon is like a 1911. It is proven, accurate, expensive, and beautiful but it can be a pain in the butt to take down and put back together. The Hornady is like a Glock. It is simple, easy to use, relatively cheap, and it just works.

If you are thinking about getting a progressive press, don't let the Dillon naysayers sway you from the value of the Hornady. It will work just as well as the Dillon (this statement is based on the assumption that the Hornady case feeder works). That said, if you have the money I think the Dillon may potentially be able to go longer without a stoppage. One thing is for sure. Both presses have their headaches.
 
Excellent post!

Now since you collect presses, buy an RCBS Pro 2000 and compare all three!

I think you will find there is no best press....just different presses for different people.
 
I looked at the 2 presses when I was looking to move to the progressive. I liked the simplicity of the LNL. There is not a press made that is perfect for home users. All have there + and - . All can make reliable reloads. You did a good comparison.

I've owned a LNL-AP w/Brass feeder for 4+ years now. I learned early on how to get the Primers to feed 100% reliability. I slightly modify the sleds so that small amounts of brass and powder does not impact it's operation. I just rounded the bottom front of the sled to give it clearance. For seating you just need to get the feel. I think a good mod would be to have an adjuster screw on the base for the primer pin to contact. On the primers sticking on ejection, just thin and polish the ejection pin a tad and it's fixed.

Now the brass feeder on the LNL can be a pain to get it set right. The push feet needs to extend lower to the shell plate to keep the brass from hanging on the shell retainer spring groove. This is only a problem with short pistol brass, rifle works ok. Then depending on caliber the drop tubes that feed the brass to the kicker foot is too sloppy. This causes the brass to cock and bind up and not drop a case. Now once you have it dialed in, it can run as fast as you can run the ram up and down. Then there is the problem of brass not falling clear of the collator. If the press is mounted so there is no rock/vibration/shake while you operated the press, this seams to go away in the most part.
 
Nice review. For the Dillon you can buy a part which replaces the spent primer box with a tube. I met a Guy on Calguns who sent me one and it works great. You just connect a rubber tube to the new part and feed it through or around your bench. Works great and no more wasted time emptying the box.
 
Jake,

Fantastic review and fits my experience with both presses. Goes to show you no matter what you buy, there are quirks and problems to resolve. They're machines, designed by men and have compromises to make them affordable in their price ranges. When that's the situation, there's going to be some small aggravations. Even when you spend a bunch of money, there's still going to be engineering compromises. It's how you resolve the problems you run into that help you get good service from a progressive press.
 
I've got a 650 also and really don't care for it, now I do love my 1050 . Have a 550 set up on a couple rifle calibers and really have no urge to switch them over to the 650 either
 
I had the Hornady LNL and sold it to get the Dillon 650. While you make valid points in describing your experience with both presses, things that bothered you on the Dillon don't bother me as much. I bought a new 650 and I have yet to experience priming problems. The Hornady was MUCH less reliable and MUCH harder to seat primers with. For me this was... unexcuseable. If you think it was hard installing the case feeder on your 650 wait until you get one for the LNL. There are four times as many parts to install. And if noise is a factor, its much noisier. It did work though. I wouldn't swap my 650 for three LNLs now.
 
I have both too.

To stop the 650 primer feed, if I need to, I have a ziptie looped around the primer tube shield that I throw over the indexing arm to stop the primers. Some remove the cam but removing a bolt takes longer than my method.

The pins on the Dillon can be a pain and lost if you have a messy reloading area. If you order the tabs they use for them on the 1050 it helps both problems. Still not as easy as the spring.

You can double charge with any progressive except the 1050. You wrote that you have PC dies for all of your tool heads so unless you ignore them you shouldn't get any doubles and you can setup the LNL with them too.

Neither measure works as well with extruded powders as ball or flake.

If you take a 44 mag case and drill out the bottom, then back off the bracket that holds the primer cup and slide the rim between the bracket and press. You can attach a hose just like the LNL.

What setup did you have to do on the case feeder? Not a lot of options on the Dillon, change feed plates or add the washer for your 357 cases. Is your case collator the old one with the rectangle opening that you have to use the plastic adapter for small cases or the one with the round opening that stays the same for all cases?

Only problem I have with the bushings are that they have backed out on me. You can fix it simple enough but I have never had a pined in tool head "self remove".
 
excellent review, an actual comparison and not a fanboy piece. I don't trust the opinion of anybody who can't find some nit to pick in a product.
 
I just loaded another 400 on the Dillon last night and now I am getting a lot more sideways primers. What do I need to do to fix that?

If you take a 44 mag case and drill out the bottom, then back off the bracket that holds the primer cup and slide the rim between the bracket and press. You can attach a hose just like the LNL.

I have heard of this fix but when I look under the press there is just a hole through steel that is slightly larger than a large rifle primer. I see no way to attach anything to the bottom of the press.

The issues I have had with the case feeder are with trying to bend the switch so that it doesn't cause cases to stick yet also getting it to turn the thing off when it gets full. Last night I was having issues with it not wanting to drop a casing into the feed ramp. Maybe buying used wasn't such a good idea.

I have also had the hornady bushings back out on me as well.

You wrote that you have PC dies for all of your tool heads so unless you ignore them you shouldn't get any doubles and you can setup the LNL with them too.

I took the dillon die off of the tool head to use it on the Hornady press before I got a chance to setup the Dillon. Then this weekend a buddy of mine came over and we wanted to pump out a lot of .40 so we used an RCBS sizer/decapper. I threw the RCBS one in the tool head because I didn't really want to add the step of unscrewing from the bushing and then moving over to the Dillon press. Most of my time on the Dillon was spend setting it up right. Once I got it working okay we were both going hard. One thing is for sure, when the case feeder works right it is MUCH faster than putting a casing on by hand.
 
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However, I think the Dillon powder measure leaves a lot to be desired. It is much more time consuming to set up than the Hornady and its jumpy and rough working.

just to make the point: the Dillon measure is supposed to be jumpy--supposedly it's there to settle the powder in the measure after each stroke. if it bothers you, you can apparently remove the jumpiness by bending one of the flanges on the measure (thought i've not tried this)
 
Here is what the 44 mag case looks like installed.

IMG00069-20110424-1355.jpg



I fixed mine with a section of 1/2" box tube.

primercup.jpg

pricup.jpg

Not sure about sideways primers. You can see them in the disk as they come around, are they sideways at that point?

Post a photo of the collator problem your having, maybe that will help.

Used Dillons are no problem, they will rehab it for free. All I have ever had to pay was shipping to them.
 
longdayjake - "I have also had the hornady bushings back out on me as well."

Call Hornady and ask them to send you the shims for the LNL bushings. They send them for free and should take care of the bushings backing out. They come in 0.005" and 0.010" thicknesses. I've had this happen on the powder measure bushing only, not any of the dies. The 0.005" shim did the trick for me. Make sure you tell them that you may need more than one if you have multiple dies that get loose.
 
I also own both.

I have to say that while I think the Hornday has areas where it's superior to the Dillon, the Dillon is by far easier to produce serious amounts of 100% functional ammo with than the Hornady, at least for me, and considerably faster also.

The good for the LNL:

1.) Bushings, I like them and the greater space in the toolhead
2.) Case retaining spring
3.) Factory spent primer system
4.) Powder measure adjustment, consistency and simplicity
5.) Smoother indexing

The good for the Dillon:

1.) Ease of / leverage during primer seating
2.) Roller handle
3.) Easier stroke
4.) Far, far superior case feeding system
5.) More consistent ejection

Once you set both of them up with a case feeder, the cost is about the same, so I don't see the benefit cost wise for just one caliber. The Dillon is more expensive to change calibers on though.

I had nothing but trouble with my LNL in getting primers seated fully. The case feeder was an abject failure and required serious re-work to make reasonably functional with 9mm casings. Exceptions during loading were much more frequent, and production, even with the case feeder, never remotely approached the level I get with the Dillon.

All in all, I'd trade my LNL for an Dillon XL650 any day of the week. While I still use the LNL for .223 and .40 S&W, if I shot those rounds more frequently, I'd get another 650.

However, if my LNL would have seated primers consistently, I probably never would have switched in the first place, and would still be wondering why people like the Dillon.
 
All in all, I'd trade my LNL for an Dillon XL650 any day of the week.

No doubt, the LNL I ordered a few weeks ago was only $325. From a cost perspective they have a good advantage.
 
No doubt, the LNL I ordered a few weeks ago was only $325. From a cost perspective they have a good advantage.
That's a good price. I paid about $380 for mine a few years ago.

What I meant was, even with the significant price difference, I'd gladly pay the difference for the Dillon if I knew what I know now about both machines.
 
I have always been a Lee fan & never seen a reason to use any thing else even tho I started with RCBS. That was until last night at the gun show when I found a LNL AP. The only way you could tell it was used is there was powder stuck in the hopper because the oil was never cleaned out. For $175 I decided to give it a try. I thought I got a good deal & hope I did.
 
I just loaded another 400 on the Dillon last night and now I am getting a lot more sideways primers. What do I need to do to fix that?

Typically cause by slow shellplate indexing. This is caused by one of two things (that I'm aware of).

1) If the indexer block isn't adjusted properly the primer is coming up before the ring indexer moves the shellplate into position. The primer catches on the edge of the hole and flips sideways or completely over.

2) Older presses had a different platform that could, over time bend if you ever crush cases at stage one.

I was well into six figures when I began experiencing flipped primers. I adjusted and tweaked for an hour before I was smart enough to call Dillon. As soon as I described the problem the tech knew what I needed.

If you need another platform, be sure to ask for the primer punch assembly and indexer block as they are different.

Hope this helps.
 
Good review. Your opinion on the case retainer may change if you add a case feeder to the LNL, mine did. The spring has a habit of slightly tipping cases and jamming them, also the ez-ject sends cases into the feed path (at least with .223) if you are processing brass only. Still a good press, I fixed these at considerable time spent and it does work well now.
 
longdayjake said:
I just loaded another 400 on the Dillon last night and now I am getting a lot more sideways primers. What do I need to do to fix that?

The case is held, actually "nudged" in place at the priming station (#2) with a small "finger". If this finger is not properly adjusted for the case size it will tilt the case in the priming station or it might not be fully in the shell holder. Both conditions can cause a tilted primer. Look for the adjustment hole on the support bracket. I believe it requires a 1/16" allen wrench. Dillon specs a slight gap between the finger and the base of the case when properly adjusted. I place a case in the shell holder, move it to station #2, then adjust the screw so it pushes the case fully into the shell holder. I then back off until it just stops tilting the case.

This is a step that's often overlooked in the manual as Dillon kind of hides it in with a bunch of other steps.
 
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