? about Ruger Revolvers

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Big Bill

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I have several Ruger revolvers that I had a question about; so I emailed ruger. Here is the question and also the answer from Ruger:
Comment / question:

My Revolver is leaving a small scratch all around the back end of the cylinder. Is my gun's timing off?

Response:
The light mark on the circumference of the cylinder on your revolver is normal and is the result of the cylinder latch being in proper engagement position as the cylinder is being rotated

If you need further information, please visit our website at www.ruger.com or contact us at:

Revolvers, shotguns, rifles, 10/22 Charger Pistol: (603) 865-2442
Pistols: (928) 778-6555
Serial Number History Information: (603) 865-2424

Please note: This e-mail is sent from a notification-only address that cannot accept incoming e-mail. Please do not reply to this message.

Sincerely,
Ruger Firearms
I don't have this issue with my S&Ws or Colt Trooper.
 
Apples and oranges? You talk about the "back" of the cylinder; Ruger talks about the circumference. Can you post a picture of your cylinder and maybe someone can figure out the problem, if any.

"Cylinder latch" is the Ruger name for the cylinder stop; a cylinder stop drag line is perfectly normal in an S&W and in some Rugers. But if there is scoring on the back end of the cylinder, that is another story.

Jim
 
Thanks Jim. Evidently it's a cylinder stop drag line. I've never worried about it before, but I was just wondering. Both my Blackhawk and SP101 have slight scratches (drag lines) around the circumference of the back of the cylinder where the stops are.
 
It's normal and expected, but the Ruger might just be showing it a bit more than the others.

It depends both on how much pressure the cylinder latch puts on the cylinder, and what the finish is. My stainless Security Six doesn't have a noticeable ring, nor does the Wife's Colt Peacekeeper. My Blackhawk/Super Blackhawk both had very noticeable rings (Both blued).
 
New Model single actions have some interesting design "flaws". Ruger decided that to cut production costs and absolutely ensure reliability, the bolt (latch in Rugerspeak) would rise very early to guarantee it hit the bolt notch. Thus the ring present in every New Model single action ever produced. Except for those massaged by gunsmiths for proper timing. On any other gun, including Old Model Rugers, this would be a serious timing issue. Par for the course on a New Model Ruger. On a traditional single action like the Old Models, Colt SAA and replicas, the bolt should rise into the leede. If properly timed it will never ring the cylinder, as long as you never drop the hammer from the half-cock notch or otherwise mishandle it.

The second flaw is a certain amount of creep inherent in the design and necessary for proper operation of the transfer bar. A gunsmith can minimize it but never completely eliminate it. That, combined with the geometry, is why you can never achieve the lovely crisp trigger of the Old Model (or Colt SAA) on a transfer bar gun.

On double actions, depending upon how bad the timing is, you will actually have two rings. One from the bolt rising early, the other (usually faint) from closing the cylinder and rotating it to lock. Usually S&W's are better timed and have only the faint ring from closing between notches but I have a couple with early rising bolts as well.
 
Thanks for all the great comments. My question has definately been answered. You guys really know guns.
 
There is a relatively simple mod you can do to most Rugers that well eliminate the cylinder turn line. A competent gunsmith should be able to remove any perceivable creep in a Ruger trigger. Maybe not the the level of S&W but damn close.
 
If properly timed it will never ring the cylinder, as long as you never drop the hammer from the half-cock notch or otherwise mishandle it.

That might just be why the "design flaws" were put into production. How many people today don't "abuse" their guns at some point?

I have a S&W Model 19, Model 10, Model 57, Model 617, and Model 29 that all have the rings from the bolt stop. None of them have any other problems.

As for the "design flaw" of the transfer bar, it allows people to safely handle the guns. It also allows for an actual six-shot carrying six-shooter. Something that the "wonderfully crisp" trigger mechanism of the Old Models, and the SAA, cannot do.
 
The cylinder latch, or stop, is often uneven on the Rugers. A good way to fix it is to just file and polish it, or use a Dremel. I've had to do it to a number of mine. It's entirely cosmetic, but still....
 
As for the "design flaw" of the transfer bar, it allows people to safely handle the guns. It also allows for an actual six-shot carrying six-shooter. Something that the "wonderfully crisp" trigger mechanism of the Old Models, and the SAA, cannot do.
You're preaching to the choir, I have as many New Model Rugers as traditional guns. I know the in's and out's of each. All things considered, while I have several custom New Models, I will always prefer the traditional half-cock action. Capacity is a non-issue and safety is between the ears.
 
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