about smokless....and c@b's

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do you think a conversion cylinder with cowboy low pressure smokeless loads...or a ruger single six .22 would be a better choice far as taking care of the occasional late night pest? bout the same price( i saw a used pair of ruger single six's for 300)
 
Most cowboy loads are at or below black powder loads. they are the only loads that are safe enough to shoot in a bp revolver. If you load correctly another powder that CAN be used Safely in a bp revolver is Trail Boss. Trail boss is a smokeless powder that is designed to fill the cases a little more than a standard powder. 6 grains of trailboss fills the case of a 45 a lot more than say unique. Same time the recoil is very very mild. Trail boss is an excellent powder to use on older guns. In smokeless powder rifles and guns i use it a lot. In fact one of my favorite guns is my Winchester 30-30. My son now 9 has been shooting it since he was 7. However for him i load up 7 grains of trail boss behind a 150 grain bullet. the recoil is very mild. However it gets the bullet on target. REad the reviews on trail boss. Its very good powder. Most cowboy ammo. Like that sold by Black hills uses a similar powder. Only other option would be to use black powder itself. Making black powder rounds is so easy. But then loading in general is easy as long as your willing to do what it takes and have patience.
 
When I feel like haveing a smokeless day at the range ...thats the powder I use ( Trailboss ) I`ve found it even milder through my crono ..than the data they have posted ...all my loads have been very consistant ..never a problem with it ..easy on the six shooters too .
 
I truely love that powder. i mean i have a bunch of powders. but trail boss is the only powder that will help fill up the case give you a light load, easy on the gun and has great accuracy. I loaded up some 45 colt with some trail boss. I just want to compare it to Goex. If its lighter on the recoil i will mess with that for a while until my 45 schofield brass comes in.
 
Scrat ..did ya order the Schofield die set ? I tryed to reload mine useing the 45 Colt dies ...It didn`t work for me ...I`ve heard others say they can ..I just couldn`t get that much adjustment out of my Lee dies .
Your gonna like the little Schofield rounds . Real easy shootin.
 
sundance44s, while I agree with the sentiment regarding the 45 LC black powder ballistics, I cringe every time I hear of somebody buying such a conversion for their colt clone. The design of the gun was not made to handle such power.

The 1872 was offered in 44 Colt for a reason. It duplicated the power of the 44 C&B.

The 45 LC is in a class by itself and needs the extra engineering of the Model P to safely get the full benefit of the cartridge.

Just my thoughts.

As for the OP idea, do not do it. Guns are easy to rebuild. Hands are not, and no where near as good after the rebuild.
Click to expand...

I disagree slightly. The Colt Walker was an open top design like the other Colts and was more powerful than the .45 long colt blackpowder cartridge. The guns can take that level of power just fine.

Nonetheless, there's no way I'd load any of these guns with smokeless powder as the OP wants to, except as very light cowboy type loads in the cartridge conversion cylinders. Blackpowder is more fun anyways and powerful enough so why bother. Just use some triple 7 powder to delay cleaning.
 
AntiqueCollector.... i said i was done attempting smokeless loads! i do use 777 now, but had been using pyrodex since pyro was 17$ an 777 is 26$, and my next thing to get is the 3 lb tumbler from harbor freight to make my own bp @ about 4.75$ a lb.... after the tumbler pays for it self anyhow. my little bros rock tumbler is not that efficient.... although i was using 200 and 250 grain conicals lol. now i got my order in from cabalas though im ready to roll!! have 2 spare cylinders.... 454 rb double cavity mold(that i have already cast 150 rb out of!) double spare cylinder pouch.... double stack four pistol gun case, (which is only good for 1, maybe 2 1858 rems and all shooting supplies for approx 125-150 rounds) and today about 300 wads should get here( 5$ /100 not bad?) so i have a shot pouch too for shot loads. AND NOT A BIT OF SMOKELESS AT ALL IN THE WHOLE SETUP lol. so there.
 
I used some Pyrodex 30gr. pellets for .44 revolvers with a corn meal filler /w felt wad under HDY round ball .454 dia in my 1858.dirty& red rust by 2nd day.Sprayed gun with window cleaner wiped off with rag wet with WD 40.Weather was rain every evening.Used same in my ROA w/457 HDY round ball gun very dirty but no rust.Stainless steel. 1858 stainless Pietta 12 inch rusted as bad as blue steel gun.I don't like Pyrodex pellets I had a .36 1858 and used America Pioneer 2F because thats the only thing not in pellet form that my Father in law had. Worked well with 23grs. with corn flower filler &.375 dia HDY ball low vel;but good plinking load.I was visiting upstate NY so I didn't want to carry caps and powder with me from Florida.Travel thru the Peoples republics of Maryland & New York didn't nrrd any trouble.
 
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1858rem, don't worry, I wasn't pouncing you on that really, just making my point that I think the Colt designs can handle .45 colt blackpowder loads just fine, just not heavy smokeless loads. :)
 
dmb3006if your gettin rust like that, after you clean it DRY IT VERY WELL so no water spots are on it. also, don't oil ti yet.... but you can put it in the oven at about 250 until it dries off everywhere (take the grips off first), then oil it and being so warm it will soak the oil up nicely... and preventing rust. btw i don't know how well wd 40 works, i have used hoppes and rem oil, but wd 40 probably makes you gun smell pretty good lol:D
 
cool AntiqueCollector ya i suppose its my fault anyhow an ought to expect to be criticized for even attempting smokeless in the first place lol. btw whats a OP?
 
Damn you sundance your right. i guess i can try the 45 colt dies. i did order the brass. but yep may have to order a new set
 
Yep I ordered 500 pieces of Schofield brass from Midway ...thinking I could make do with my 45 Colt die set ...Didn`t work for me ..maybe dies other than Lee will work ...Hey one thing I do like about the Lee Schofield die set ...you won`t need a crimp die ....The seating die does the neck crimp too ..and it does a good job .
 
Seems like I paid 95 bucks at Midway for 500 pieces of Starline Schofield brass ...I bought the Lee Schofield Die set from Midway after the fact ..don`t remember the price ..but it was the best price I could come up with on the Lee die set .....Heck I was all set to load some up ..Then my Colt dies wouldn`t adjust for the Schofield ...ruined my day ...I`ve been stuffing my Schofields with 26 grs of 2F 777 topped off with 250 gr molly lubed bullets ...still a little stout ...I`m going to try some 200 gr bullets next time I load ....Might lighten the recoil some what ...( Wayne ) Rifle says he uses 230 gr bullets ...I can`t find any around here ..may have to order some ...
 
what kinda velocity you get w/26 grains ff 777 and a 250? i gotta 250 REAL mold that i thought bout shootin some boolits through my 58' with but they hard to start an i wanted to know some numbers to see if that was worth tryin, energy/velocity wise.
 
I see red flags all over the place - someone who uses smokeless powder when it's written all over the gun in 5 different languages not to, someone who wants to shoot two roundballs out of a single gun, now he wants to make his own powder?
1858rem - start paying attention and just be careful. I don't make my own powder, but from what I've read you have to follow directions pretty well.
 
ouch. ya some of these guys take shooting black powder very very serious. But people like pohill are what makes this forum what it is.
 
i guess i kinda seem a baron of bad ideas lol... the only thing that was actually dangerous ive done was the smokeless in a cb. i have made powder for a long time... at first for rockets.. then when i got my 58 i wanted a better method for good clean powder that would also work in my flinchlock to make it more of a flintlock(cant stand a 3 sec lock time w/pyro!!!!) but i gave up on that for a while before i had job and ran out of money for equipment. now i got the money im gonna do it right, but if i can get a mill at harbor freight, why get it at united nuclear for an extra fifty dollars? im really careful no matter how stupid what i say might seem. far as the 2 rb goes... i asked for help, didn get an answer i needed so i just tried it, i was using a sub but not nearly as stupid as smokeless. i started at ten g w lub pill an 2 rb. worked fine. worked up in 2 g increments till i got to 27 lube pill an 2 rb. no more kick than a single rb with the same load for some odd reason. they did have different poa's though. the pair hit about 3.5 in high an at 15 yd were no more than .5 in center to center apart..... of three shots(total of six holes) was about 4 in group.... single ball was only 1 in(this was off a rest) and the single ball was about 1 in low. btw the reason i was so impatient was 1 im fairly impatient and 2 will be working 6 days in a row every week from now on and Friday is my only day off, and on work days i don't get done till ten... i don't have time in the mornin either cause i go to school from 8 in the mornin till time to go to work. so i don't have much time anymore, till thanksgiving break anyhow:cool:
 
least in my opinion is was not dangerous, of course i also know the exact circumstances i was under so knowing this i can have a totally different opinion than anybody else.....well as my granpop used to say "opinions are like asses, everybody has one" pop was a funny old fart lol
 
I cant remember when. But the subject did come up once before. on two round balls in a cylinder. we were talking about it from a civil war point that this was done often by mistake. Same time i believe there were a few people that have done it. But quickly figured out it was not worth it. Now ideally by theory if you have two round balls coming out of the same chamber same barrel at the same time from the same charge. They should go through the same hole. However that was not the case. It was inconsistant. To the point that differenty chambers in the cylinders would give different results. Same time every throw of the hammer would put the balls 1/4 of an inch apart or even more. i researched this once. it seems the problem is the back bullet is getting the pressure and the bang from the charge the ball in front is being pushed by the back ball. Since it was not under pressure as the back one. it is sort of pushed out of the way. the only way to avoid this and to have both balls act as one would be to use some type of filler in between both balls as they would have to be very very tightly pushed agaisnt each other. you would almost have to use a conical flat faced kinda like a barrel with no round ends on each side otherwise the rear ball is pushing the front. Instead of both getting the benefits of the charge. This is why its a no go. So ya its already been tried and it doesnt work. All your doing is waisting lead. Again we are back to the load it per the manual and shoot for accuracy.
 
ya i figure its a waste.. least i know where to aim for conicals an where to aim for rb... but these are in and all around,,, just waistin lead. accuracy is top
 
1858rem - I hope you're looking at an engineering major in college because you seem to have a passion for ballistics, at least. Just don't blow yourself up (or anyone else for that matter) before you take the SATs.
Just some advice from an old coot.
 
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