Advice on Mounting for a Scope on Rem 700

[FL_Hunter]

The dual Dovetail bases from Leupold, Burris and Redfield will be fine. The Leupold bases are the best looking....

Anyone should know the advice you get from the majority of Bass Pro, Cabela's and Gander Mountain big box stores will be flawed at best, often times we'll stop by the local Bass Pro or Gander and just quietly listen to the nonsense the firearm employees are downloading on the customers, pretty funny, like being at the circus!

No, I'm not saying ALL employees of these fine establishments firearm departments are full of it, some are quite knowledgeable, but then again, some are full of it!

Plug the sight base holes, after a few seasons of dirt and water residing in the holes, rust will rear its ugly head, you know, rust never sleeps!

Try this....

...........www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=792/Product/PLUG_SCREW_KIT

Thanks for the great advice, I absolutely agree with you about rust. After snooping around, I learned that the size is 6-48 screws, midway pack of ten can be found here.

 

[Maverick223]

Or should I look at the quick release model ?

If you can justify the additional cost for BUIS, absolutely. For me it greatly depends upon the intended purpose. I put QR style rings/mounts on rifles for DG and/or important tasks (expensive hunts). If either is a possibility for you, then I would recommend doing likewise; but if not it might not be worth the added expense. Despite my distaste for Leupold optics, I have used many of their mounting products to great success (but I can say likewise for Burris [including Signature rings], Warne, Weaver, Dednutz, and many others). In particular I like the dual dovetail version, if going with fixed mounts, and two pc. mounts for most any rifle that isn't destined for long range precision work.

 

[FL_Hunter]

Ok guys, took the sights off, both front and rear, also took the 1 piece base off.

Getting the rifle ready for the dual dovetail base and low rings. (I was hoping for the superlow rings, but when tested my scope on this base with a set of low rings I have; the scope bell is about 1/4" from the barrel = any closer would be too close for comfort.)

All advice is really appreciated.

And FWIIW, this is a Long Action base, see marking in pic.

 

[Maverick223]

Good choice, though you probably could have went a size lower if you have 0.25in. clearance. The only important thing to keep in mind is a good cheek weld, if the rings you chose provide this (and they likely do), then you are good to go.

 

[FL_Hunter]

Do you advise the use of Thread locker?
Looking at Loctite 222MS (Purple, Low Strength/Small Screw thread locker).
Or Locktite 242 or 248,
Anyone used any of these?

 

[Uncle Mike]

NO THREAD LOCKER!

IF you must use it too sleep at night, use the Purple(222MS) or at the least, use the blue(242).

IF you properly torque the base screws, they will not come loose, however, if the rifle is used, you may want to use the thread locker as who knows if the threads were 'pulled' in the receiver due to over-torque by the previous owner.

The ring caps should never have thread locker use on their screws, unless you feel the threads are damaged, just keep in mind that small screws and thread locker sometimes become one!

My question is...why do you feel 1/4" or less is too close to the barrel for the objective bell?

0.100" is good, as long as you can do what you want, like put on covers, or whatever....a correct cheekweld is more important than anything else!

 

[jimmyraythomason]

NO THREAD LOCKER!

Why? Always use blue Lok-tite on all mounting threads. Clean holes and screws with alcohol and use a couple of drops per fastener. I use it on all of my scope mounts and rings and am very happy with the results ie; no loosening screws or shifting scopes and ease of removal when ready. Torque drivers are good but not necessary. I mount all of my scopes low-over-bore and consider a 1/4" gap between barrel and scope as wide.

 

[JDGray]

15 ft/lbs

I realize you meant 15 inch/pounds, but others might not know that

 

[Maverick223]

Why? Always use blue Lok-tite on all mounting threads.

It is often too easy to strip those small fasteners when you use LocTite. Personally I ride somewhere in the middle; I often use blue thread-locker on the mounting screws (depending upon the rifle), but NEVER on the rings. Those tiny fasteners are just too dang easy to strip, or worse shear off completely.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

Those tiny fasteners are just too dang easy to strip, or worse shear off completely.

I'm constantly changing scopes around and haven't had it happen yet. Until it does (IF it does) I'll continue using my technique. It has work flawlessly all these many years. I started doing it when my scope kept loosening up on my Rem.Model 700ADL in 30.06. Haven't had a problem since.

 

[FL_Hunter]

It is often too easy to strip those small fasteners when you use LocTite. Personally I ride somewhere in the middle; I often use blue thread-locker on the mounting screws (depending upon the rifle), but NEVER on the rings. Those tiny fasteners are just too dang easy to strip, or worse shear off completely.

Both screws, mounting and rings, are the same size; at least in this case anyways.

I am concerned with recoil, it is a 7mm MAG, however I am no expert so what do you guys think?

 

[Maverick223]

Both screws, mounting and rings, are the same size; at least in this case anyways.

True, but that isn't always the case, and the mounts aren't typically removed (I tend to move around scopes, not mounts unless I have a problem).

 

[jimmyraythomason]

I would never put a steel screw into an aluminum mount dry. If nothing else,a little anti-seize and tighten to the max torque.