BP Tess,
If you take the blue off there is no finish and it will rust eventually, What I do is use Birchwood Casey Plum Brown to rust the finish, then the rusting process is "Killed" by olive oil or an animal oil, The old timers used whale oil but it is not available in the US any longer due to the ban on whaling. You follow the directions on the bottles of the B-C Blue and Rust remover. Step two is to polish the frame/bbl, cylinder, rammer, and cylinder pin,with 600 Grit wet/dry sandpaper or 000000 Steel wool. I prefer the sandpaper(auto Parts Store paint section). Step 3 is to clean the bbl, frame and cylinderand Cyl pin with Brakleen and dry. thouroughly. Step 4 follow the instructions on the B-C Plumbrown. You need to repeat the browing step to brown color, not red. to keep the browning from the bore slug a ball down to the forcing cone from the muzzle and then seat a ball just flush into the muzzle. This keeps the browning solution from getting into the bore. Card between each coat of PB then oil and let cure overnight. I then take off just enoiugh to make it look like a well used original from pictures on the net. last step is cure one last time. I put the curing parts in the oven at 15-200 degrees to open the pores of the metal. This will "kill" or stop the rusting action and give you a good finish. I do not, and I plug the internal cavity(works) with cotton or something as you don't want the browing solution in the internals cavity.
You will need a propane torch to heat the metal parts, per instructions on the Plum Brown Bottle. You do not need heat to remove the blueing.
The brass TG can be aged with a Lemon and/or Lime juice soak after polishing with 600 grit. Let it soak at least overnight or longer.
I do perform this service for others if you are interested. PM me if you are interested.