Annealing Brass - Why?

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Foto Joe

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Can somebody explain to me why one would want to anneal their brass?

The reason for the question is that I get a substantial amount of "blow back" on 45 Colt rounds. I realize that the standard fix for this is to simply not size the brass so that it fire forms to the chambers. The problem that I have with that is that using a .452 boolit often leads to the boolit just falling into the brass before I get a chance to crimp it. Therefore I wind up having to size the brass and then we're back to the original issue of the blow back.

I'm just wondering, if I anneal the brass will it allow it to expand a little more readily and possibly seal off the blow back in a low pressure load like 45 Colt?
 
The problem that I have with that is that using a .452 boolit often leads to the boolit just falling into the brass before I get a chance to crimp it.

Multiple issues here it seems to me.

A bullet that just falls into the case is a definitive indication that the case is not sized down far enough for that bullet or in the alternative if sized down far enough has been expanded too far for the given bullet.

I'd say the reloading dies are likely enough sized for a larger diameter bullet. Older dies and expanders were sized for maybe .455 or so bullets. Throats and barrels for the .45 Colt over the years have of course been sized all over the place. These days the .45 ACP and .45 Colt often use the same bullet diameters. This means of course that the sizing die and expander must be appropriate to the smaller diameter bullets for proper neck tension.

Blow back is almost always the result of low pressure loads. As noted the low pressure loads don't expand the brass tight against the cylinder walls. I'd try perhaps more bullet pull from tighter necks to get more complete combustion earlier in the process. I have no experience with annealing to reduce soot on the necks but of course squeezing the case down and expanding the case to fit loose cylinders will work the brass more so annealing may well be a good idea on general principles and can't hurt the soot issue. Try it.
 
You don't need a max load to get the brass to seal.
I can't quote a PSI figure, but there is a tipping point where the brass seals the chamber and you still have a light practice load.
Perhaps a faster powder to reach a higher pressure and still remain at the speed you want?
I know using Clays that you can get a light load that seals the chamber.
I'm sure the same could be done with Red Dot.

I size my 45 Colt brass about 3/4" inch down for my carbine. Looks like a .44-40 when I'm done. That way you have an easy seal and good bullet grip.

Annealing pistol brass turns them to mush IME.
 
I shoot low pressure Ruger only 6.5gr TrailBoss loads that clock no faster than 800 fps, most in the 750fps with a 260 gr LRN & LSWC wheel weight cast boolits, 4 5/8" barrel NMRBH, and probably a little faster in my Rossi '92 lever gun.

Both guns turn out very sooty brass, the soot is a combo of the powder and home brew boolit lube, and the case not sealing well.

I will definitely try the 1/3 neck sizing thing !

My first batch of Winchester new brass was the older 0.454", my 0.452" cast boolits dropped to the bottom of the case, had to size them before I could shoot 'em.
 
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If you're looking for the brass to expand a little more up the pressures of the load. I have a feeling if you are getting that much of a problem the pressures are too low.
 
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