Another Newbie - Please look at My Equipment Wish List

[sig228]

OK, before the flame war starts, I read the sticky posts at the top. I read many, many pages in this forum. I viewed many You Tube reloading videos. I purchased "The ABC's of Reloading 7th Ed" and read and tried to digest as much as possible. I went to all the major manufacturer's websites.

I'm ready to take the plunge. Before I do that, can you all please look over and give any comments on my "wish list" of reloading equipment?

As you can see, I intend to reload .357mag, .38sp and 45acp.

Guns are a 4" S&W 686, a S&W 640 snubbie and a Kimber Ultra Carry II

Also, can you guys recommend powder, bullets and primer that's easy to obtain from an online source (Midway?).

Finally, I'm a little confused on primers. Would the above cases use small or large primers? Any special primers for the magnum?

Thanks very much to those who will provide comments. I promise to post photos of my setup when I'm done.

Here's my equipment wish list:

Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret Press
Lee Deluxe Handgun 4-Die Set 45 ACP
Lee Deluxe Handgun 4-Die Set 38 Special, 357 Magnum
Lee 4 Hole, Classic 4 Hole Turret Press Extra Turret
Lee Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure
Lee Safety Prime Small and Large Primer Feeder for 2006, Later Reloading Press
Frankford Arsenal Electronic Caliper 6" Stainless Steel
Hornady Model M Magnetic Powder Scale 510 Grain Capacity
RCBS Vibratory Case Tumbler 110 Volt
RCBS Rotary Case and Media Separator

 

[jfh]

I reload for virtually the same guns you do, sig228--and I reload for 10mm as well. Further, I use Lee gear--so, here's my advice.

Overall your list looks good. In addition to what is on it, you

1. should get a second 38/357 die set and another turret and set the dies up "permanently" for each caliber. If cost is an issue, this can wait--but believe, you've want it.

2. Make sure the press kit or the powder measure includes
a powder-through "riser,"
a swivel adapter, and
the adjustable charge bar.

The first two items are must-haves for using the Pro Auto Disk on the Turret, and personally, I don't have the time of day for the lee disk system, although it can work well.

3. As for the scale: I would NOT get an electronic scale as my only scale; there are reliability issues with them, no matter the price.

Personally, I work with the Lee balance beam just fine, but a lot of people don't like it, so they upgrade to a Dillon, RCBS, Lyman, whatever. I have one of those, too, but I am currently NOT using it.

There are several inexpensive digital scales you can get--the FA one at Midway I have I am satisfied with, and I cross-check the Lee and this one.

Get a (Lyman) check-weight set for the balance-beam scale.

Other items:

1. Personally, I like a MAX CART gauge. You can use your chambers to check your rounds, but a max cart gauge is handier (I just set mine by the press) and does more checking than a chamber does.

2. Be sure to add some ammo boxes for storing the finished ammo.

Buying resources:

1. Given what is on your list, I would order this package from Kemp's--they are Lee dealers and have a Classic Cast Turret package.

Obviously, the more you can order from one source, the cheaper your shipping cost will be. So, you could even change caliper brand, tumbler and media seperator, as needed to accomplish a "one-shop" order.

I find Midway's shipping to be expensive, incidentally.

For components, I buy nearly all my stuff from Graf's--but Kempf is probably about as cheap, and if you buy the components there, at the same time as you buy the press and other gear, maybe the shipping cost will continue to drop and will amortize the hazmat fee.

For components: I'll be short and sweet and simply tell you some good products. For now, you can avoid the debates about which is best.

Cases: Personally, I prefer to buy new Starlines (again, see Kempf's or Graf's), but they do cost about $18.00 / 100 or $135.00 or so per 1000. FWIW, unless you plan on loading high test loads in all calibers, they will probably last "indefinitely"--that's certainly true for .45ACP, possibly true for 38 Special, and might be true for 357.

Otherwise, buy once-shot brass, with the same headstamp, and save some money. Of the typical headstamps, I like Winchester the best.

Primers: I use Winchester Primers almost exclusively. You need both small (38, 357) and large (.45ACP) Simply get 1000 ea of WSPs and WLPs. Later, after you a bit more, you may need to add WSPM for some 357 Magnum loads you use.

Powder: Winchester 231 will work fine in all three calibers for lighter and medium power loads, and a lot of us like it. buy at least one pound. This will get you started, and you can add other powders once you've read more here and know a bit more.

For other powders, you can consider anything from Bullseye, Unique, H. Universal, and on up the burn rate chart. Power Pistol would be one I would consider, and I really like AA#5. AA#5 and 231 will meter well in your Pro.

Order as much of your components as you can afford at one shot, to get it all under the one hazmat fee.

Lead bullets: Mike at Mastercastbullets.com makes good bullets at reasonable prices--but god knows what a reasonable price currently is. Personally, I would get some 140LTCs for the 640, 158s for the 686, and 200-gr LSWCs for the .45ACP. He'll ship you about 2000-2500 of them for about 11.00 and mix the order as you need.

Buy one more manual: I recommend Speer 14, the newest, and / or Lyman Pistol and Revolver / latest.

There, I've spent a bunch more of your money.

Any questions, ask away--

Jim H.

 

[rg1]

Sounds like you're anxious to get started? Only things I can think of not on your list is small case prep tools that are handy. You have to have a case mouth deburr tool. A inside primer flash hole uniformer is nice. Removes burrs left when the primer hole is punched out. Lyman's or EJS Possum Hollow are good and can be found at Midway. I highly recommend the EJS Possum Hollow primer pocket uniformer. Cuts primer pockets to an exact depth and squares pocket bottoms. Also great for removing fired primer residue.I consider it to be a necessity. I think you need a case length trimmer but not absolutely positively necessary for the pistol calibers you mention but cases trimmed to close to an exact length make crimping for the .38 and .357 more uniform.
As you can tell from your manual, .38 and .357 use small pistol while .45 uses large pistol. If you shoot slow powders such as 2400, 296, or H110 then you'll need small pistol magnum primers for the .357. Standard primers will work for faster powders in the .357 and all .38's.
For primer, powder, and bullet recommendations there are many choices as you have found reading posts. I've used RP, CCI, and Win primers with no problems from either. My choices for .357 are AA#9 or Blue Dot powder with CCI 500 small pistol primers. For .45acp AA#5 or Unique and CCI300 or RP
2 1/2 primers. For .38 I like AA#2 or Unique and CCI500. My favorite pistol bullets are Hornady or Remington. For .38 or .357 Hornady 125XTP's are great or 158XTP's for the .357. Your choices are unlimited and there are many good recipes that others have found. For a new reloader I caution that you check each and every case to make sure primers are seated flush or below the case head. You can't feel that they are fully seated and visual inspection will find a high primer occasionally. Have fun and be safe!

 

[evan price]

I reload all of what you do with more besides.
I will second the above regarding buying a second setup to run .38 and .357 as seperate calibers- saves the setup time changing them back and forth.

I use Winchester primers normally (but just got into Wolf). Winchester small pistol primers ignite my .357 magnum loads just fine. The Winchester Large Pistol primers will work for Magnum or nonmagnum applications, it says so right on the box.

Your .45s take large pistol. The .38/357 use small pistol.

As far as projectiles go, the 158 grain lead semi-wadcutter will work great for both the .38 and the .357 and save you needing multiple bullets for what is essentially the same thing. Plus this is a "default" bullet for these calibers with lots of data.
Throw in some 125-grains for the snubbie if you want a lighter load for it.

I would advise starting the .45's with round nose projectiles, if only because until you run something through the gun you won't know if it feeds well- and round nose are pretty much the default .45 and feed in anything. Not saying the semi-wadcutters won't work in a Kimber, it's just that to be safe in the beginning, stick to what will be simple and work, you don't need any extra trouble in the beginning while you are trying to figure everything out.

Powder is something that will be an arguing point. I use Titegroup myself for everything but a new reloader might not like the fact that it is a very reduced volume charge powder. It looks like a tiny bit of powder in the case and a doublecharge is a possibility if you are not careful especially in the beginning as you figure out what does what... Same goes for W231/HP38, and similar.

The Lee pro autodisk powder measure is a good setup and it will measure powders like W231/HP38 or Titegroup quite nicely. If you use 230-.45 and 158-.357 you will have no problems finding load data for any common powders.

Brass is not an issue. Unless you are trying to make some sort of hyper-accurate competition load, the minute differences in case volume caused by headstamp changes won't be noticeable. My advice is to start scrounging brass from the ranges where you shoot. Also, buying some factory cheap ammo like Win White Box from Wal*Mart and saving the cases to reload is a good strategy, especially for the revolvers, you don't have to crawl around trying to find them, just dump the cases into a box or something by the firing line. Also lots of folks sell brass in the Marketplace on this forum.

Powder Valley still has decent prices on powder and primers, but the Hazmat fee from anywhere you buy them mail order is $20 plus shipping.

Projectiles, check around, I like KEAD hardcast bullets myself. TJ Conevera has good prices on jacketed bullets.

So, I would get a brick of 1000 small pistol primers. Another 1000 large pistol primers. A pound of Win231 or Hodgdon HP38. 500 .45s, 500 .357s. Once you are comfortable loading simple loads you can experiment. .45 and .38/357 are the easiest to reload.

 

[RustyFN]

Your list looks good but you will want to add the auto disk riser to keep the pro auto disk from hitting the safety prime primer tray. Most people don't do any case prep for pistol calibers. You won't need to trim straight wall pistol brass so there is no chamfering or deburing. I don't clean primer pockets but some people like to. I buy powder and primers from Powder Valley or Graf & Sons in bulk and get some great deals. Don't be afraid to use Wolf or Magtech primers, they will save you some money and work fine. Make sure you buy the carbide dies so you don't have to lube the cases. I own a Classic Turret and am sure you will be very happy with it.
Rusty

 

[Starter52]

All I can add is a hammer-style inertia bullet puller. Cheap and useful for life's little "mistakes".

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

My answers in red:

Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret Press good choice

Lee Deluxe Handgun 4-Die Set 45 ACP good

Lee Deluxe Handgun 4-Die Set 38 Special, 357 Magnum Good, but here's something to think about: .357 magnum cases are longer than .38 special cases, so if you only buy one die set, you may have to reset the die set each time you want to load the different calibers. Were it me, I would buy two of the .38/.357 die sets and two turrets and have one set up for each. same with the Lee pro auto disk powder measure. It's not that expensive and it's very convenient.

Lee 4 Hole, Classic 4 Hole Turret Press Extra Turret Good, see my comment on the die above.

Lee Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure Good, you may want to consider buying some extras for the powder measure or perhaps a powder measure for each turret and each caliber. This is for convenience and because the powder measures aren't expensive, very affordable.

Lee Safety Prime Small and Large Primer Feeder for 2006, Later Reloading Press Good, since you're getting this, you'll need to get auto disk risers for your powder measures so they clear the safety prime.


Frankford Arsenal Electronic Caliper 6" Stainless Steel Save yourself some money and get the Harbor Freight digital caliper, Item #47257 or equivalent. Less expensive, works just as well.

Hornady Model M Magnetic Powder Scale 510 Grain Capacity A good choice. Another good choice is the RCBS 1010 and the Dillon scale.

RCBS Vibratory Case Tumbler 110 Volt Save yourself some money and get the Frankford Arsenal combo vibratory case tumbler and rotary sifter combo. Works just as well and less expensive.

RCBS Rotary Case and Media Separator See comment on case tumbler.

Don't forget to buy yourself a bullet puller for your mistakes. RCBS makes a good tough one that has a lifetime warranty. Get two, they're cheap and if you break one, you'll have a spare while you're waiting for your replacement.

Regards,

Dave