Any tribologists or gun oil enthusiasts wanna play?

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This thread has inspired me to go mad scientist.

After looking around in this thread, others, and the internet in general I've got my brain cooking on a few different strait products as well as mixtures and blends just for S&G's.

Think I'll try a few.
 
Lupinus - most of us do not have the equipment to do lubricity evaluations. And I don't know how to properly balance dry-lubes, like moly, and tungsten, and ptfe. This is not a thing to make ME look good. It's just an attempt to actually learn more, for many of us.

It was just an idea, if it doesn't work for me, then maybe for someone else, eh?

bye
 
So as said, I decided to do my own comparison. I have 8 just standard steel plates from the hardware store, seven products and one for control. All plates were cut from the same steel bar, sprayed with a degreaser, wiped clean, had their product applied, and then the excess wiped free to leave a thin film. Sprayed two hours ago with a water salt solution.

Breakfree CLP- Looking good. Just to be clear this is the CLP in the aerosol can.

Standard Hoppe's #9 Oil- Defiantly better then the control, but showing some light rust.

Hoppe's #9 with weatherguard- Better then standard Hoppe's, but defiantly not as good as the CLP.

Gunslick Ultra Lube- Looks the best of the gun specific products, very little if any rust.

Mobil 1 Syn ATF (All they had was the multi-vehicle Mercon, says meets Dexron standards)- Defiantly better then the control and slightly better then the strait Hoppe's Oil, but not as good as the CLP or Gunslick.

Marvel Mystery Oil- Looks a bit worse then the ATF.

75% ATF and 25% Mystery Oil- Actually looks considerably better then the strait ATF or MMO, but still not as good as the CLP or Gunslick.

I went with ATF because by all accounts I read, it was better then going with Motor oil. MMO was chosen as I had seen it suggested. And a 25/75 blend of the two just for the hell of it.

Will give another update after they have sat all night, with a picture.

Currently, the gunslick looks the best of them all.
 
Berk-

Oh I know, I'm just playing around with corrosion.

In the case of motor oil or ATF, I don't care how well it lubes if the gun is gonna rust away lol.
 
oil

berkbw- granted George Fennell has his life tied to selling his product but he has produced 2 products for guns. As far as I know he is the only tribologist that will post to the gun boards. I'm sure he believes his product to be the best but when he talks oil there is no mistaking his knowledge.

I know very little about guns or oil so when I find someone who seems to know more I tend to listen. Using motor oil or transmission fluid in anything besides engines and transmissions seems wrong. They were designed for a specific purpose. Sure you can use Mazola oil as a hydraulic fluid if that's all you've got but we have better things designed for a particular purpose.

For me I'll stick to those that are designed for that purpose. And there are many products made just for guns. Hoopes #9 for cleaning barrels, a clp for wiping down the exterior for rust prevention. And a quality gun oil for the slide. I have quite a few others just for guns but those three work well for me.

Clp may be made to do it all but I like it best for the protection, not so good for lubricate or clean. Other products do that better. But clp was made for an all in one for soldiers in battle. Can't carry 3 different products.

Hoopes has been around longer then me and seems to clean barrels well. Might be something better, I just don't know.

Gun oil on the friction parts. Rem oil, Gun Shield etc. Not sure if they are actually better then Mobil 1 but at least they are designed for guns. Mobil 1 is a detergent motor oil, I'll keep it in my engine.
 
Camera took a dump so no pictures :mad: No one tells me these things.

In any case, CLP wins, with the gunslick following with a close second. The both showed very light surface rust that wiped away easily and left no marks.

The non-gun oils tried and the regular Hoppe's showed considerable surface rust that for the most part wiped away, but left some markings behind. The mixture of ATF and MMO did best.

So while it may lube fine, the non-gun lubes tested just didn't cut it for protection from corrosion.
 
now you need to test it for slickness.

A small electic motor turning two gears at no load, using 1 aa battery.
See how much current it uses.

Should also show you what stays put.
 
I assume you guys have seen this corrosion test? Breakfree does OK, but Eezox and Corrosion X are the ones to beat. I use Eesox after a good cleaning, and BreakFree CLP for normal everyday cleaning/lube, plus my Tetra grease for serious lube points.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
 
My son changed his truck oil and left about 6-8 oz in the 5 qt jug-Castrol semi synthetic. Guess Ill have to get some kind of small oiler and fill it for evaluation.
 
I must be behind the times. I'm now using Mobile Lathe spindle oil. It's $18.00 a gallon around here. It's similar to the old sewing machine oil.
 
I like this stuff for oil. It's thick enough to stay put pretty well, but not too thick like a grease. Works great on internal parts of pistols, etc., that might gum up with grease. Very slick. Seems to work better than the motor oil.

Jason
 
I like using olive oil on Carcanos and sesame oil on Chineses SKSs. I actually prefer sperm whale oil above all else, but I just hate dragging the harpoon gun out everytime I get low.
 
I personally like Militec-1 for lube and a silicone impregnated cloth for protection. For longterm storage I clean and then put it in a large vacuum seal food storage bag.
 
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