Anyone use a Lee Auto Disk?

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Captain Quack

Captain Quack

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I just set it up again and I'm having a few issue and I know I'm doing something wrong. I pulled all the dies and cleaned and lubed where needed and set them back up. Turn the hopper to on. Pull the lever. Full case. Pull the leaver. Empty Case. Pull the Lever. Empty case etc. I set it up using some videos on youtube and had no problems with it last week until I pulled everything. I triple checked that the disk is seated properly. I'm going back and forth between .71 and .76 to throw about 5.5 grains of Unique for a 115 gr FMJ RN 9mm.

Captain Quack.
 
Is the disc springing back to the preset position or is it hanging up? I moved to the chain reset in lieu of the spring reset and I’ve also pitched the round discs for these so I can get a more precise powder charge.

13982B37-EABE-4792-A82C-45F50FDED1F7.jpg
 
I used to use the charge bar and loved it but with the Unique powder anything below 6 seemed to throw really small loads and I didn't want to start that high.

Captain Quack.
 
is the hopper installed in the correct orientation? it can be installed with bolt positions reversed.
 
Did that. Caught it right away and returned it to the proper orientation. With the On/Off facing the front. Forgot to turn the hopper off once too. Good thing I had the bottle and funnel right there. Didn't loose much.

Captain Quack.
 
Maybe too obvious, but make sure the disc is set with the arm in the appropriate slot. I too made a mistake with it and just set the disc on top and didn't pay attention to the placement.
 
I think I checked that three times but it won't hurt to try it a fourth. Wouldn't be the first time I've made that kind of mistake. I've been following YouTube videos while I do it but they aren't always right either. I'll be getting back in there this afternoon. I've got some charity computer calls this morning.

Captain Quack.
 
Sometimes that return spring underneath will bind up on the base support. That spring rides right on it. I've talked to Lee about this and they've told me it's supposed to be that way. I don't buy that. For me anyway, even when it does bind, once the lever gets all the way back up it pops in place and it hasn't been a problem with the drops. It's annoying though.
 
Captain Quack said:
I'm using the chain set. I haven't played with the spring one yet.

Captain Quack.
Click to expand...
Never liked the chain or spring setup and have been using this modified setup with great success.
SpringS.jpg
I started doing this on a piggyback that needed a riser (2) to clear the index rod but now use the same setup on a Pro 1000/Loadmaster/etc.
It's simply uses the spring arm that comes with the measure and an extension spring.
The expander/risers/pm follow the case up and down throughout it's travel, so no gaps where powder can get trapped.
The spring is easily un-hooked to throw a test charge too.
PmSpring.JPG
I have never experienced any powder measure hang-ups but if I did I would just install a stronger spring.
works for me, might work for you.
.:D
Edit: I have seen other setups that use a weight attached to the arm instead of the spring. Something else worth a try...
 
Last edited:
The "bell" of the chain had traveled about 3/4 of the way up the spring and I reset that. But I think I like the looks of Tilos's spring rig. I think that might do the trick. Looking at the motion in a bright light I think it's possible the disk isn't going all the way back and allowing the powder to fall in from the hopper. I have the chain as tight as I can get it. I'll do a measurement on the distance between the bottom hook and the top of the levers motion and see if I can find a spring at my favorite hardware store. Thanks guys. I'll post a report this afternoon sometime.

Captain Quack.
 
Something else to check
There was a time when Lee did not completely seat the drop tube into the powder measure body.
You can remove the powder hopper and look down thru the drop tube for a space, the tube should be tight against the shoulder.
Pro1KDropTube.jpg
check it,
:scrutiny:
 
Don't oil or grease anything. Clean it completely, washing plastic parts with soapy water and let air dry (don't wipe off) and then run some graphitized power or just powdered grahite through it.
 
IMAhobbyist said:
Had the chain linkage on a PRO1000, saw it and said "Meh.." Here's what it takes to convert it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133200049632 lever
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123936530512 spring

Like LennyJoe also think the adjustable charge bar is worth it.
Click to expand...
If you buy a Lee Auto Disk alone, not part of a PRESS kit' you get that spring arm and spring.
I found using that wrap-around spring to be clunky and too stiff, and cases were over-flared pushing against it.
I use that arm and an extension spring that's way easier to un-hook than the wrap-around spring to throw a test charge to weigh.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/anyone-use-a-lee-auto-disk.888149/#post-11916746
jmo,
:).
 
I decided to give Tilos rig a try. I found a #14 4 inch spring at my local hardware store while the Wife was looking for garden edging. Had to bend the ends a bit but now it's throwing charges from 5.9 to 6.1 consistently. Good thing too. The spring on the chain went walkabout when I took it off and dropped it in the bin. Tilos. You ever hear of WECSOGS? If you don't qualify for that you should.

Thank you all so much. Now if that AOL issue is sorted as well then I'll be a happy bunny rolling up a bunch of 9mm for Sunday at the range.

Captain Quack.
 
OH! Noylj. For graphite I have a graphite spray I use for anything that just doesn't want to move. It's wide area but would that be something safe to use?

Captain Quack.
 
Captain Quack said:
OH! Noylj. For graphite I have a graphite spray I use for anything that just doesn't want to move. It's wide area but would that be something safe to use?

Captain Quack.
Click to expand...
Nothing liquid in the powder measure. I would avoid a spray.
 
Graphite spray is good. I use it on the plastic pan that came with my ChargeMaster and on the coated base and disks of my pro Auto-disks. Prefer graphite powder for powder measure internals. Lee used to not mention cleaning or graphitizing, but I think they do now.
Only measure more consistent then PADs (with the Lee super springs) is my PPM. Next down would be my Hornady L-N-L, followed by my Dillon's.
The spring has no effect on amount of flare--it's operator controlled. Adjust as needed.
 
The main problem with the graphite spray is it gets EVERYWHERE. I'm a bit afraid it would get into somewhere it shouldn't and contaminate the powder. Taking all the parts outside to spray them of course. Just indulging my paranoia. I ALMOST have this rig ready to go and don't want to risk going backwards again. When I last looked for graphite in the tube all I could find in the local auto stores was the spray. Which I have been liking for the most part. But I couldn't find the little tubes anywhere.

Captain Quack.
 
The chain is their way to prevent short stroke doubles. The chain doesn’t return the slide back until the ram is low enough to index the shell plate. A spring returns it right away.

If it’s sticking and a spring is insufficient to return it the chain will also return it positively, for no squibs either.
 
Most powders are coated with graphite. NOT a contaminant. That's why most powder measures have instructions to clean the measure and run a hopper full of graphitized powder.
Graphite is a lubricant and electrically conductive to eliminate static. Just don't spray the hopper. Washing it with soapy water and air drying (not wiping it AR all) leaves a very thin anti-static surface.
 
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