Apex trigger for M&P or just get a Glock?

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I removed the screw...it was the tightest sight I've ever removed from a handgun and that includes two SP-01's, P-01, several Glocks, and a couple 1911's. Maybe its the custom sights that are installed on the MP40 Pro? Dunno, but it was tight as hell. Didn't mess with the front.

I bought the APES FSS and couldn't imagine being happier with it. Upgrading it piecemeal may be cheaper, but I didn't want to question whether or not I could get a better trigger. I wouldn't go back.
 
I have both and I've tried aftermarket triggers for both. I have never shot a glock well regardless of the trigger. The M&P with the daek and Ram made it a pistol I'd never sell. It feels great in the hands and the trigger is as good as I'd hope for in a carry firearm. I would buy the kit again if I were to buy another polymer pistol.
 
Get the Apex. I can't even remember how bad my stock trigger in my M&P was, but I absolutely adore the Apex trigger in mine - and I'm just running the CAEK and RAM set. I'm sure the FSS is even better.

My Glock 17 started out with the stock trigger and I eventually put in a factory "-" connector which improved it some (have to keep the modifications light to keep within GSSF rules). I can honestly say that the Glock in either config doesn't come CLOSE to the M&P w/ the Apex.
 
Well, I will say my M&P 40c has a very good trigger and IMO doesn't need a trigger job, but I also have an M&P 9mm (full size) and it could use some help. So it just seems to me that it could be hit or miss on getting a good trigger on an M&P pistol. IMO triggers can be adjusted to your likings but fit & feel of the pistol in your hand can only be decided by the person holding it. For me the fit & feel of M&P series of pistols are head & shoulders above Glocks. Nothing against Glocks, they just don't fit my hand worth a ********. LM
 
Please look up Burwell M&P Trigger Job

Its easy to do (About 20mins)

If for some reason, you make a mistake (you wont)
you can buy the parts to replace

I did my M&P45C and it made a great difference

Just go slow

My Shield 40 was much better than the 45C out of the box, but I did the trigger job on it as well

I imagine that the new trigger systems on M&Ps just need to be shot to smooth out the trigger.

I just wanted to match the trigger pull weight
 
9mmepiphany said:
I've never heard of the rear sight being "notoriously tight."

However I have heard that about the front sight. It was certainly true of the only M&P that I've tried to change the front sight on. I finally sent it to a pistol smith who locked in in a large bench vice and drove it out with a punch and large hammer...he said he had to hit it hard enough that it flew across the room. He installed the Dawson front sight that I sent, which isn't a simple thing either, but that was a known quality when I bought it
Click to expand...

I just replaced my sights on one of my 5" Pros with a set of Dawson's and both were a PITA to remove. I ended up going with the big vice in my garage, 2 of the punches Dawson sent, and a large ballpeen hammer. I installed the Dawson FO front, and their adjustable rear for my match "Pro". I'm going to order another set, but with their "Charger" rear for the "Pro" I'm setting up for HD.

As for triggers, both of mine (2013 date) are fine, gritty initially, but smoothed out considerably with use and dry-firing. They're not 1911 nice, but come close to the PPQs I own. IMHO perfectly serviceable.

Chuck
 
Apex kit installed

I just finished installing the Apex DCEAK parts. It was a PITA, took about 2-1/2 hours. The trigger feels much smoother, We'll see how she does at the range.
 
Triggers then there are triggers and trigger modifications. For me,I leave the trigger/trigger system OEM with out modification. I just learn to work with it. I know its not very imaginative on my part but that's the way it is for me. This attitude probably goes back to my revolver days shooting extensively double action with the single action function inoperable.
 
Triggers

Hangingrock;
I've had the 40c for 2 years, I've had it at the range a dozen times or so. I suppose for self defense use the stock trigger was O.K., the gun went bang when I pulled it. For careful aimed fire I didn't know exactly when the gun was going to fire, the trigger pull wasn't long but gritty and mushy feeling during the entire length of the pull. Other than the trigger I like the gun, the size is right between a G27 and G23. The controls feel like better quality than Glocks, though Glocks no doubt work just fine. Though it would have been nice if S&W had done it right in the 1st place, I have no problem with making improvements.
 
The most difficult part is getting the pin through the trigger spring. I finally got it together after about 30 minutes only to realize that I'd left the slide release off. With the slide release in place it was even harder to get the pin through the spring, that took another 45-60 minutes. Getting the rear site off took about 10 minutes, getting it back on and centered took about 30 minutes.
 
Where you using the included guide pin?
Where you watching the YouTube video?

Mine was a lot of fun, because I did it on a range without electricity or Wifi...so only ambient light and memory to guide me...we were doing a before and after comparison on shot grouping.

The hard part was using a piece of crown molding and a wooden dowel instead of a vice and a punch...at least I had tweezers and an allen wrench. I only had one part left over...I'm sure I got all the parts I dropped in the sand.

Kayaker, don't feel bad. When I first installed the trigger bar on the FSS trigger, I installed it upside down

I'll add that the whole process is easier if you can follow the YouTube video as you are doing it. It also helps if you have the Apex Tactical Armorers Block. I used it when I replaced the left out part (filler cap for the thumb safety) and touched up the trigger bar and the striker
 
At the advice of many, I installed an Apex trigger spring kit on my new SD9VE. It cost $21 and nicely improved the pull weight enough that I decided to keep the pistol. I personally would not pay $165 to improve the M&P trigger. I would rather spend the extra dollars on a Glock.

edit: using the spring kit installation video on the Apex website, the procedure took me nearly an hour with the SD9VE. I can replace all springs in the Glock in about 5 minutes.

Good luck


M
 
Last edited:
M1key said:
At the advice of many, I installed an Apex trigger spring kit on my new SD9VE. It cost $21 and nicely improved the pull weight enough that I decided to keep the pistol. I personally would not pay $165 to improve the M&P trigger. I would rather spend the extra dollars on a Glock.

edit: using the spring kit installation video on the Apex website, the procedure took me nearly an hour with the SD9VE. I can replace all springs in the Glock in about 5 minutes.

Good luck


M
Click to expand...

I did the same on my SD. Just noticed that they also note have a new physical trigger for the SD as well for $40. Supposed to take another pound off and reduce pre and post travel. Strongly considering doing that as well.
 
I watched the Apex video before, when it was time to do the install apparently I picked the wrong video. Even though it was an Apex video it wasn't as thorough as the one I previewed earlier. Once I was done I saw the pin and had a face slap moment. Also, the video that I watched during the install didn't address removing the rear site and installing those parts.
 
While I was at the range yesterday, a group of guys who were sharing a lane next to me were very loudly discussing how awesome the post-trigger-job trigger was on an XDm that they were shooting. While doing so, they took turns printing 8" shotgun patterns from 5 yards.

I think they could have benefitted from trigger control jobs.
 
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