AR-15 accuracy

[Ritchie]

I've just started reloading for my AR-15, and getting poor results. Factory ammo
shoots inside of 2 inches at 100 yards using iron sights, but my handloads are easily
on the 14x14 inch paper. Its a 16" heavy barrel with 1-9 twist. I'm using CCI #41
primers, prudent amounts of WW-748, and name brand 55 and 60 grain bullets with
a light crimp in the Lee Precision factory collet crimp die. Most of the bullets have
been soft points, and I thought that maybe the tips were getting deformed in feeding
and throwing the balance of the bullets off-there were several sideways holes. But
results were the same with single-loading the rifle.
I'm a fairly experienced handloader but would like to hear any suggestions anyone has.

 

[redneck2]

Are you using a FCD or a collet die? Two different animals.

If it's a FCD, that's the first thing I'd lose, mainly because it's the simplest. If you're using the crimp die, you may be crushing the jacket enough to throw off the balance.

I use collet neck sizing dies dies for my AR. Mine is a 1-9 and I shoot 50 grainers that are exceptionally accurate.

 

[layusn1]

I have the same barrel and it loves Speer 52gr HPBT Match bullets with W748 and CCI small rifle magnum primers. If your up for experimenting on a new load it is a really good one.

 

[30Cal]

The bullet tips don't affect accuracy. You can mangle half of them and it should still shoot well.

Keyholing usually means that you're using bullets that are too heavy for your twist rate. You might want to measure what that twist rate really is.

 

[GunTech]

He's posted it's a 1:9, and that should stabilize anything up to 65 grains or so.

Here's my recipe for accuracy in a 1:9

25.5gn 2230, 52gn SMK in WW brass with a CCI BR primer

If that doesn't shoot, there is something definitely wrong with the rifle.

BTW, are there any marks on the flash hider?

 

[Ritchie]

30cal: I had started to wonder about the twist too, but it measures 1-9
for true.

Redneck2: I'm using the collet die from Lee Precision, lightly.

Guntech: It's a comp, without the marks. What I can see of the muzzle
looks fine.

Here's the reference test-it shoots factory 55 FMJ-BT just fine. Rem/UMC
green box, Q3131A, M855 (but I'm hoarding those. The Q3131A put 3 shots
into 1-1/4 inch max, with iron sights at 100 yards. I knew I wasn't shooting
>that< badly. Its a flat top now wearing a 4x scope.
I would prefer not to run out and buy more powder(ooh that one! and that
over there! this one looks nice!) as I already have more than I would prefer to have on hand. I do have some 3031. 748 has been quite accurate in my Mini-14 but it took a long time to find the convergence of two different factors. Looking at the freshly fired case heads I figure that 28 grains is
just about enough over a 55 gr boat-tail.

 

[redneck2]

Redneck2: I'm using the collet die from Lee Precision, lightly.

You do not use a collet die "lightly". Per Lee instructions, raise the shell plate all the way and turn the die down until it touches. Drop the shell plate away and screw the neck sizing collet die down another 2 full turns. The bottom of the die has to be compressed against the ram for the collet to resize the necks. The ram should not "cam over". The die needs to stop the movement of the ram.

You keep jumping back and forth between FCD and collet dies. They serve far different functions and work much differently.

AND...28 grains of WW-748 exceeds factory loads. According to the Lee book, 26.2 is MAX with a 55 grain. According to the Winchester book it's 26.3. You're over maximum by 2 full grains. You need to understand that raising the amount of powder by 10% doesn't just raise the pressure by 10%. It may raise it by 50%. You never know.

I'd suggest you find someone that knows what they're doing to help you before you damage the gun or yourself. In any event, there isn't enough money in the world to get me to shoot those loads in my gun. I'd pull them all and start over.

 

[Ritchie]

The Lyman book lists 30 as a max, Speer 28. I started significantly
lower than that. Reloading manuals vary widely, and some give
loads much lighter than others probably due to liability concerns.
But I do take your point. This rabbit trail is at an end, its not going
my way.

 

[jmorris]

If you are using “varmint” bullets they may be coming apart due to the centrifugal forces produced by the 1:9 twist (they are made for slower twist barrels i.e. 1:14), I had this problem before. If you are going to crimp you really need bullets with a cannelure (crimp grove/knurl). To see if the problem is with the projectile and not the rest of your set up you might pull a few of the factory bullets and try them instead of the bullets that give you the 14X14 groups, if they make a group instead of a pattern, you’ve found the problem

 

[redneck2]

Maybe so. I don't have those particular books. I do know that about 26-26.5 of Varget fills the case up to and part way into the neck. Varget may be fluffier than 748. Probably is as 748 is a ball powder IIRC.

In any event, if your OAL is short I'd stretch it to mag length. If 28.0 is too high, and particularly if the OAL is short and making compressed loads you never know where the pressures are.

Also...may want to watch using the collet die with an auto. If you get case stretch the rounds may not chamber unless they're full length sized.

Another thought is to find someone with handloads you know shoot well. If you were close here, I'd give you some of mine that shoot well under 1 moa. If they don't shoot, it's the rifle. If so, it's the rounds.

FWIW...I never crimp rifle rounds and get good results. Bullet manufacturers go to great lengths to make bullets that are perfect. Seems to me that a crimp distorts what was a good bullet. I use Nosler BT's in my Bushie Varminter AR with 1-9 and they are exceptionally accurate. Unless your bullets were made for .22 Hornet, I'd think the jacket should be strong enough to take AR velocities.

HTH

 

[Ritchie]

Switched to 3031 powder and this is more like what I had in mind. Never
saw such a huge difference in group size between powders.

 

[six 4 sure]

I have had good success with IMR 4895 and Reloader 15 in my AR's. You may also want to try Hodgdon H335.

 

[redneck2]

http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e283/Indianaoutdoorsman/?action=view&current=Gunpix-1.jpg
This is my all time best load. Might want to try it.