last summer i bought a s&w mp 15-22 and simply love the gun. it got me really appreciating the AR system. i want to get a 556/223 rifle a step up from the 22lr and really want to build it myself to keep the costs down. so ive been researching and i really cant figure out what parts i need to make a complete rifle could someone make a list of the parts i need like a #ed list that would be a huge help as well as what tools ill need and a good website for directions. with the parts world for the ar being so immensive i really appreciate that list to keep things straight all help appreciated thx
AR-15 Build
- Thread starter beehlebf
- Start date
- Status
For the lower, you will need a lower receiver, and a lower parts kit. Palmetto State Armory sells a nice lower "build" kit that includes the receiver extension, and the stock.
For an upper, you will need:
upper receiver
charging handle
barrel
flash hider
front and rear sights
bolt
bolt carrier
hand guard
gas tube
Probably some more stuff I cant think of right now.
I would recommend building your lower, and buying a complete upper for your first rifle. By the time you buy all the tools, vice blocks, headspace gauges, etc, you would be better off just buying a complete upper.
HOWEVER, If you want to learn the platform, go ahead and build an upper, but keep in mind, you wont save any money.
For an upper, you will need:
upper receiver
charging handle
barrel
flash hider
front and rear sights
bolt
bolt carrier
hand guard
gas tube
Probably some more stuff I cant think of right now.
I would recommend building your lower, and buying a complete upper for your first rifle. By the time you buy all the tools, vice blocks, headspace gauges, etc, you would be better off just buying a complete upper.
HOWEVER, If you want to learn the platform, go ahead and build an upper, but keep in mind, you wont save any money.
1. Stripped lower receiver. This is the only part that requires an FFL.
2. Lower parts kit
3. Receiver extension tube
4. Buffer and spring
5. Buttstock
6. Stripped upper
7. Upper parts kit
8. Bolt carrier group (bolt, bolt carrier, firing pin, cam pin, firing pin retaining pin)
9. Barrel (should come with barrel extension installed, indexed and headspaced)
10. Charging handle
The barrel nut will depend on the type of handguards you want. If you want a military type handguard setup:
11. delta ring assembly (delta ring, snap ring, weld spring)
12. mil-spec barrel nut
13. front handguard spacer
14. snap-in handguards
If you want a railed/freefloat fore-end
11. rail/float tube
12. barrel nut to match the fore-end
Likewise you have a choice when it comes to the front gas block:
15. gas block/front sight base
16. gas tube
17. Muzzle device
18. Magazines
If you're doing this to save money, you won't. On top of the part to build the rifle and paying for shipping for all of them, you will need around $100 in tools to complete the build correctly. If you are only interested in building a single rifle it isn't cost effective. On top of all that, you can get a good rifle that will serve you well for around $700. Significant about that is being new to the AR, having a factory rifle will result in less headaches for you. It will run right and if it doesn't, you have a warranty. User built rifles can be very temperamental. If you want a rifle to shoot, building is probably not the way to go. If you want a project, go for it but you could wind up with a real pain in rear on your hands and find yourself spending a lot more than you planned for just to get it to run somewhat reliably. Ask me how I know.
2. Lower parts kit
3. Receiver extension tube
4. Buffer and spring
5. Buttstock
6. Stripped upper
7. Upper parts kit
8. Bolt carrier group (bolt, bolt carrier, firing pin, cam pin, firing pin retaining pin)
9. Barrel (should come with barrel extension installed, indexed and headspaced)
10. Charging handle
The barrel nut will depend on the type of handguards you want. If you want a military type handguard setup:
11. delta ring assembly (delta ring, snap ring, weld spring)
12. mil-spec barrel nut
13. front handguard spacer
14. snap-in handguards
If you want a railed/freefloat fore-end
11. rail/float tube
12. barrel nut to match the fore-end
Likewise you have a choice when it comes to the front gas block:
15. gas block/front sight base
16. gas tube
17. Muzzle device
18. Magazines
If you're doing this to save money, you won't. On top of the part to build the rifle and paying for shipping for all of them, you will need around $100 in tools to complete the build correctly. If you are only interested in building a single rifle it isn't cost effective. On top of all that, you can get a good rifle that will serve you well for around $700. Significant about that is being new to the AR, having a factory rifle will result in less headaches for you. It will run right and if it doesn't, you have a warranty. User built rifles can be very temperamental. If you want a rifle to shoot, building is probably not the way to go. If you want a project, go for it but you could wind up with a real pain in rear on your hands and find yourself spending a lot more than you planned for just to get it to run somewhat reliably. Ask me how I know.
Quentin
Member
You haven't said what your applications are. The parts that you buy depend on what type of AR you want. I'd start ironing out exactly what you want then put in a lot of research before choosing parts. The lower's not too hard, so start there deciding which stock, LPK/trigger and rollmark you want. But put lots of time into deciding which upper you want - barrel profile, length, twist, sights, handguards/rails, etc.
ETA after your post...
best quality and $700 really can't be used together when you're looking at ARs.
ETA after your post...
best quality and $700 really can't be used together when you're looking at ARs.
Krusty783
Member
I'd suggest a stripped or complete lower from Spikes tactical. I have one and they are a pretty good value. You probably don't want a billet lower because they are expensive & stay away from "composite" lowers because they have a bad habit of breaking. You can find DPMS lower parts kits on Brownells etc.
For a good quality upper, I'd suggest CMMG or Rock River Arms(RRA) or DPMS. You might find a lot of people hatin' on DPMS and RRA, but lots of people like them too & they make good Products.
CMMG usually has blemished uppers for a good price. Bravo company USA (BCM) also makes very good upper groups and they may be in your price range with some of their specials.
I don't know how familiar you are with gun laws, but you need to have at least a 16" barrel, incl flash suppressor. If you assemble an AR with a shorter barrel, it's considered a Short-Barreled Rifle (SBR) and subject to NFA tax stamps/laws. I tell you this because you can order any upper assembly without a background check, and there are lots of short barreled uppers out there.
(this is why you'll see weird things like an AR with a 10" barrel and a 6" flash suppressor)
These are OK, middle of the road choices, but I think there are better choices for the money.
What do you want to do with this rifle? Do you want a 16" carbine, or a 20" rifle? Are you planning on adding an optic?
I would go with a Palmetto State Armory lower:
http://palmettostatearmory.com/1560.php
PSA Lower build kit:
http://palmettostatearmory.com/1633.php
Then you just need and upper, let us know what you want to do with the rifle, and we can make some suggestions.
In context, sure they can. You can get decent, reliable, basic AR for $700. For $1k you can get a very good one with some options. Sure you can spend upwards of $3k if you want but the law of diminishing returns kicks in right around $1k. To get to the next increment in appreciable quality it costs more above that point.
A lot will be determined by what the purpose for the rifle is. If you're just taking it to the range to plink with or just to have some fun, no reason to spend a lot of money. You don't need a railed fore-end or the "cool" high dollar roll mark with the latest space age coating guaranteed to reduce your online group size by 50% while solving all your other problems in life (or at least so you'd hope based on the price for the same forged lower that everyone else is selling). I've built a relatively low cost rifle. I got some great deals that aren't out there anymore and still ended up over $900. I did splurge on a high quality BCG and did use a railed fore-arm (but not a super high $$$ one) and a relatively expensive buttstock. Compared to basic versions of those parts, that increased the price about $100.
Compare that to a Smith and Wesson M&P Sport which is a quality rifle WITH A WARRANTY with an MSRP of $709. You should be able to get one for a good bit less than that. I chose to build mine because I wanted to build the rifle and I wanted something specific. That and rifles simply were not available to buy at that time.
Coltdriver
Member
Half the fun is doing your home work!
If you are patient and you shop a bit you can keep your costs reasonable. There are two places where you can save a fair amount of money. First get a standard plastic hand guard and second find an A2 stock that's a take off. The handguards to float the barrel are expensive and the really nice collapsable stocks are a bit pricey. I have seen good quality collapsible stocks used for very reasonable prices.
I think a Stag Arms or DPMS rifle can be had in the 7-800 dollar range. But it is a lot of fun to build one and its pretty easy to do. I would be very cautious about buying someones franken gun, I have seen em from 500 to 650 once in a while. Sometimes you can get a shooter and sometimes you will just get grief.
Go to http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782 and you can get a real good idea of what you are looking at. There are step by step builds of uppers and lowers there with pictures.
You may be able to find some local AR enthusiasts that will help you with the two special tools you must have. One is a block to mount the upper in a vice and the other is an armorers tool to mount the barrel and buffer tube. The blocks are about $50 and DPMS makes a great armorers tool for ~$30.
Go over to http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/ and start piling parts into your shopping cart and see what it comes to. You can experiment with the pieces and see if building one is reasonable or not. You can always upgrade over time!
If you are patient and you shop a bit you can keep your costs reasonable. There are two places where you can save a fair amount of money. First get a standard plastic hand guard and second find an A2 stock that's a take off. The handguards to float the barrel are expensive and the really nice collapsable stocks are a bit pricey. I have seen good quality collapsible stocks used for very reasonable prices.
I think a Stag Arms or DPMS rifle can be had in the 7-800 dollar range. But it is a lot of fun to build one and its pretty easy to do. I would be very cautious about buying someones franken gun, I have seen em from 500 to 650 once in a while. Sometimes you can get a shooter and sometimes you will just get grief.
Go to http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782 and you can get a real good idea of what you are looking at. There are step by step builds of uppers and lowers there with pictures.
You may be able to find some local AR enthusiasts that will help you with the two special tools you must have. One is a block to mount the upper in a vice and the other is an armorers tool to mount the barrel and buffer tube. The blocks are about $50 and DPMS makes a great armorers tool for ~$30.
Go over to http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/ and start piling parts into your shopping cart and see what it comes to. You can experiment with the pieces and see if building one is reasonable or not. You can always upgrade over time!
You can generally buy cheaper, quicker than assemble. You can definitely buy parts that are likely used dirt cheap, and beat most retailers, but - you get what you pay for.
$400 AR's have been done. In building, many upgrade this or that, and keeping it under $900 can be tough. All out, you could blow $1500 easy, and it really doesn't do anything much better than a $1100 gun - because the factory starts getting it's discounts for volume buying into the picture. They pay less than $45 for stripped lowers or uppers when they buy hundreds. Even if you get a nice blem for $48, you add shipping and handling, and do that too much, you will eat up a lot of the budget.
Your best buys are getting kits to assemble major groups to ensure you get all the little parts, and reduce S&H to a minimum. Nobody likes an $8 charge for a $2.00 gas tube roll pin - and you won't find many parts at an auto supply or hardware store, gun designers deliberately choose obscure sizes and thread pitches to shut them out.
Shop to get the best price shipped to your front door. Expect some items to be commodities - meaning you can practically throw a dart at a list of choices and you'd get the same quality and functioning part. Lowers are a great example, there's less than a dozen forging them, another two dozen more machine them only (including Colt,) and they actually make all the different roll marks to contract. Elmar's Bait and Beer in Okmulgee isn't doing the work themselves - but has good pricing and works.
Your best route is to decide what it specificaly will be used for, and then pick the best caliber, barrel, upper, optic, furniture, and trigger that support the use. Doing so cuts down the apparently unlimited choices to the vendors that actually make parts for the specific use, and keeps from building a franekngun that resembles a cross from a dachshund and shepherd. Lots of CQB 14.5" sniper guns out there, they don't do either job well.
Gabe Suarez is recently noted for saying any AR is a specific one job gun, not a universal Gun To Rule Them All. Obviously a 600m precision rifle doesn't share much else than the upper and lower compared to a door kicker on a SERT team. That is entirely the point, but a lot of builders miss it gathering up the latest assortment of state of the art cool parts, many of which have nothing to do with mutually supporting the same use. They wind up being a snapshot of the market, not actually a using gun - which is why you hear so much about changing things. Somebody actually hasn't done their homework and sorted out what they really wanted to do with it.
Your best bet is to know what it is you want to get, and then be ready to jump on a sale or bargain with ready cash. $79 barrels, free lowers with uppers, a fire sale introductory price, or finding one of the last 20 blem name brand forged milspec uppers for a song can't be waffled on for days. Some of these deals last just a few hours, and you have to check daily for them - not just expect to be told. There's some surfing involved, and arfcom at least keeps a thread on the bargains available.
Read the construction stickies, there are a lot of tips, and buying armorer's tools for some of it is expensive and completely unnecessary for parts of the job. They are really for controlled disassembly - and on the first build, you don't need them. Vice grips and old drill bits will assemble a lower with less scratches and oops than hammers and punches you have to order from gunsmithing suppliers. A special vice block and barrel wrench is nice, but a set of jaw inserts and a 12" pair of Channelocks or pipe wrench you already have can git 'er done. If you plan to hunt and shoot it, it'll get marked up anyway - and safe queen builders don't really ever see their "investment" return for them anyway. They put it together - which makes it another kitchen table gun.
Have fun, it's an interesting hobby, and don't be surprised to find you're thinking about doing it again before you even finish the first one.
$400 AR's have been done. In building, many upgrade this or that, and keeping it under $900 can be tough. All out, you could blow $1500 easy, and it really doesn't do anything much better than a $1100 gun - because the factory starts getting it's discounts for volume buying into the picture. They pay less than $45 for stripped lowers or uppers when they buy hundreds. Even if you get a nice blem for $48, you add shipping and handling, and do that too much, you will eat up a lot of the budget.
Your best buys are getting kits to assemble major groups to ensure you get all the little parts, and reduce S&H to a minimum. Nobody likes an $8 charge for a $2.00 gas tube roll pin - and you won't find many parts at an auto supply or hardware store, gun designers deliberately choose obscure sizes and thread pitches to shut them out.
Shop to get the best price shipped to your front door. Expect some items to be commodities - meaning you can practically throw a dart at a list of choices and you'd get the same quality and functioning part. Lowers are a great example, there's less than a dozen forging them, another two dozen more machine them only (including Colt,) and they actually make all the different roll marks to contract. Elmar's Bait and Beer in Okmulgee isn't doing the work themselves - but has good pricing and works.
Your best route is to decide what it specificaly will be used for, and then pick the best caliber, barrel, upper, optic, furniture, and trigger that support the use. Doing so cuts down the apparently unlimited choices to the vendors that actually make parts for the specific use, and keeps from building a franekngun that resembles a cross from a dachshund and shepherd. Lots of CQB 14.5" sniper guns out there, they don't do either job well.
Gabe Suarez is recently noted for saying any AR is a specific one job gun, not a universal Gun To Rule Them All. Obviously a 600m precision rifle doesn't share much else than the upper and lower compared to a door kicker on a SERT team. That is entirely the point, but a lot of builders miss it gathering up the latest assortment of state of the art cool parts, many of which have nothing to do with mutually supporting the same use. They wind up being a snapshot of the market, not actually a using gun - which is why you hear so much about changing things. Somebody actually hasn't done their homework and sorted out what they really wanted to do with it.
Your best bet is to know what it is you want to get, and then be ready to jump on a sale or bargain with ready cash. $79 barrels, free lowers with uppers, a fire sale introductory price, or finding one of the last 20 blem name brand forged milspec uppers for a song can't be waffled on for days. Some of these deals last just a few hours, and you have to check daily for them - not just expect to be told. There's some surfing involved, and arfcom at least keeps a thread on the bargains available.
Read the construction stickies, there are a lot of tips, and buying armorer's tools for some of it is expensive and completely unnecessary for parts of the job. They are really for controlled disassembly - and on the first build, you don't need them. Vice grips and old drill bits will assemble a lower with less scratches and oops than hammers and punches you have to order from gunsmithing suppliers. A special vice block and barrel wrench is nice, but a set of jaw inserts and a 12" pair of Channelocks or pipe wrench you already have can git 'er done. If you plan to hunt and shoot it, it'll get marked up anyway - and safe queen builders don't really ever see their "investment" return for them anyway. They put it together - which makes it another kitchen table gun.
Have fun, it's an interesting hobby, and don't be surprised to find you're thinking about doing it again before you even finish the first one.
ulflyer
Member
Beeh: I went thru this not long ago, knowing little about them. Advice on a local forum led me to buy a Del-Ton kit that came with upper completed, minus the rear sight for which I bought on Ebay an aluminum carry handle type adj sight for $20, and the lower was complete with parts which wasnt' that diff to assemble. Plentyinstructions on the internet. Kit was under $600 and is a good shooter. I just wanted an entry level gun, mainly plinker and this suits me well. Its a 16", mid-length gas system, non-chrome bore since I didn't figure its necessary for me since I shoot M1 carbines thats 65 years old with steel barrels and they're still bright and shiney. It shoots brass and cheap russian steel ammo. Just recently put a fixed stock on as I didn't like the collapsible type that came with it. This was another $60.
Quentin
Member
There is a difference between best quality and decent. Maybe you can get decent for $700 but not best quality. I agree that $1000 can get you something special - or even less if you do your homework and are patient and find good sales. My recent build which is basically a MOE version of a Daniel Defense M4V3 LW came in at $850 with iron sights.
Unless you have a bunch of parts laying around already, you really won't save any money building an AR. The upside to building an AR is the ability to specify the parts that will go into the build. If you're just building something basic and have no clue as to how and AR works or what makes it tick, you're much better off, at the least, buying a completed upper from a reputable manufacturer.
Sometimes you can find good deals on uppers if you build your own lower but generally you don't save much if any at all.
What I did for my first AR was I found a good deal on a lower at a gun show. The brand of lower isn't really too important as long as its in spec. I went with a sun devil because I found one at a good price.
Then just shop around for a upper. I really like the quality and value your getting from BCM these days and thats what I went with. If your budget is 700$ tho they might be just slightly out of your range.
You might take a look at spikes. Some people don't like them but they seem to put out a quality upper at very reasonable prices.
http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z...4.html?zenid=436f50055c10009a2a67abed3d730362
I would also recommend browsing the forums at www.ar15.com or www.m4carbine.net
Doing this you will learn a lot about what manufacturers are putting out good quality items vs ones that your not getting what you pay for.
What I did for my first AR was I found a good deal on a lower at a gun show. The brand of lower isn't really too important as long as its in spec. I went with a sun devil because I found one at a good price.
Then just shop around for a upper. I really like the quality and value your getting from BCM these days and thats what I went with. If your budget is 700$ tho they might be just slightly out of your range.
You might take a look at spikes. Some people don't like them but they seem to put out a quality upper at very reasonable prices.
http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z...4.html?zenid=436f50055c10009a2a67abed3d730362
I would also recommend browsing the forums at www.ar15.com or www.m4carbine.net
Doing this you will learn a lot about what manufacturers are putting out good quality items vs ones that your not getting what you pay for.
Johnsonator
Member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2009
- Messages
- 15
I have been going through the same process now for about a month. I have looked at every option and came to the conclusion that if you want the best bang for your buck with out spending a lot of money go with the Del-Ton kit and buy a lower reciver. You can have a quality AR for under $600. The other option to do is build a lower and buy a complete upper of your choice, this option will be more money. Like others said it is not very likely that you will build one cheaper than you can buy one unless you already have the tools. I have all my lower parts and lower reciever ready to go but am having a hard time finding a quality complete upper in stock anywhere. Good Luck.
I think that you missed my point. There is "best quality" and then there is "best quality for $700." That is where context comes into play. Honestly for a basic rifle, provided that you had the tools already, you could build a rifle that was quality where it mattered for a pretty cheap price. Only problem is that you would probably have to source the parts from many different vendors and take a bath on shipping in the process and as previously stated, no warranty. For a guy not interested in tinkering with the rifle, that could be an important factor.
Quentin
Member
The point I'm making is what I said in the first quote, best quality shouldn't be used with $700. If you want to use it, fine but it can be misleading if we start getting in to the old argument that the $700 gun is as good as ... the best quality.
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ol' scratch
Member
+1 on the Rock River. I had a mid length that I really liked and now I have a National Match that is a tack driver. The lower doesn't really seem to matter. I build mine on a Fulton Armories lower because I found a deal. The second rifle I built on a Spikes Tactical for my father-in-law. Very nice lower. I kind of like the "Jolly Rodger" that doubles as a spider and a skull.
What do you want to do with this rifle? If you want long range accuracy, look at Rock River Arms Predator upper. I wouldn't do any thing larger than 20 inches on the barrel due to weight. The barrel is air gauged, free floated and .223 Wylde chambered. Very heavy barrel and very accurate from what I have heard. If it is anything like their NM, it is VERY accurate. I may pick one up for coyote hunting. but then again, maybe I will just mount a scope on my NM A2 and go hunting
.
If you want to shoot CMP games, get a National Match. That is the way I am going.
I did save some money and built the rifle for $1015. Then I just had to get a better trigger and decided on a Geissele fully adjustable match trigger. That bumped it up to $1295. I didn't have to worry about shipping. I was able to get everything locally. Rock River sells their National Match for $1250. You have tax, transfer fee and shipping in there too. I got everything I wanted and still saved a few bucks when you consider all of that.
What do you want to do with this rifle? If you want long range accuracy, look at Rock River Arms Predator upper. I wouldn't do any thing larger than 20 inches on the barrel due to weight. The barrel is air gauged, free floated and .223 Wylde chambered. Very heavy barrel and very accurate from what I have heard. If it is anything like their NM, it is VERY accurate. I may pick one up for coyote hunting. but then again, maybe I will just mount a scope on my NM A2 and go hunting
.If you want to shoot CMP games, get a National Match. That is the way I am going.
I did save some money and built the rifle for $1015. Then I just had to get a better trigger and decided on a Geissele fully adjustable match trigger. That bumped it up to $1295. I didn't have to worry about shipping. I was able to get everything locally. Rock River sells their National Match for $1250. You have tax, transfer fee and shipping in there too. I got everything I wanted and still saved a few bucks when you consider all of that.
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Krusty783
Member
+1 on the Rock River. I had a mid length that I really liked and now I have a National Match that is a tack driver. The lower doesn't really seem to matter. I build mine on a Fulton Armories lower because I found a deal. The second rifle I built on a Spikes Tactical for my father-in-law. Very nice lower. I kind of like the "Jolly Rodger" that doubles as a spider and a skull.
What do you want to do with this rifle? If you want long range accuracy, look at Rock River Arms Predator upper. I wouldn't do any thing larger than 20 inches on the barrel due to weight. The barrel is air gauged, free floated and .223 Wylde chambered. Very heavy barrel and very accurate from what I have heard. If it is anything like their NM, it is VERY accurate. I may pick one up for coyote hunting. but then again, maybe I will just mount a scope on my NM A2 and go hunting
If you want to shoot CMP games, get a National Match. That is the way I am going.
RRA would be a good choice in this price range which is what I was trying to convey I my earlier post. RRA, CMMG and DPMS make uppers in most configs and for a $700 rifle, I would put them on a list with Spikes and Del-ton.
Yes, there are higher quality manufacturers, but unless you can find a deal on a scratch&dent BCM upper, they aren't worth mentioning. It's difficult to make a $1000 AR with a BCM/DD/LMT/KAC, etc upper and without a bucket of spare parts a $700 rifle would be a tough row to hoe.
mljdeckard
Member
While it won't really be cheaper, the advantage it gives you is to be able to do it one piece at a time. Often, it is easier on the pocketbook to do it that way. Once you buy the stripped lower, you can mail order the rest of the parts.
Go to Brownells.com and order their free AR parts catalog. All kinds of stuff you never knew you needed until you saw it in there. It's worth it to buy a book or two, and there are all kinds of videos on youtube for detailed assembly. I would also recommend a few tools. Midway has a vise block to mount an upper to work on it, you flip it over and it is sized for an AR-10 upper. I think it's less then $50. You will want a barrel wrench/multitool, maybe a torque wrench, a small hammer and some wide vise grips for driving roll pins, etc. I'm now lining up the tools to Duracoat.
the advantage this gives you is it demystifies the gun. When something breaks, or if you want to try something else, it's no big deal to switch it out yourself, because you were the one who built it in the first place. The bad news is, you won't stop with one, and you will never stop spending money on new parts.
Go to Brownells.com and order their free AR parts catalog. All kinds of stuff you never knew you needed until you saw it in there. It's worth it to buy a book or two, and there are all kinds of videos on youtube for detailed assembly. I would also recommend a few tools. Midway has a vise block to mount an upper to work on it, you flip it over and it is sized for an AR-10 upper. I think it's less then $50. You will want a barrel wrench/multitool, maybe a torque wrench, a small hammer and some wide vise grips for driving roll pins, etc. I'm now lining up the tools to Duracoat.
the advantage this gives you is it demystifies the gun. When something breaks, or if you want to try something else, it's no big deal to switch it out yourself, because you were the one who built it in the first place. The bad news is, you won't stop with one, and you will never stop spending money on new parts.
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