AR 500 Steel

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Just so I understand, the vendor sold a product rated at 100 yards, then it was shot at 25 yards? Ok.

How was it mounted? It helps to allow some movement so the plate does not absorb the full force.

Contact the vendor, see what they say. GT sells lots of targets in the competition space and they have a good reputation, although they are not my first choice for rifle steel.

2450fps shouldn't go through ar500 I think u got hosed on the steel. Speed is what kills steel.
Technically, energy damages, and speed is an easy way to get energy because it is proportional to the square of speed. But a 350gr bullet will pack on energy, too, especially with a design that "ensures that the core and jacket remain locked during expansion" so it "retains more mass, energy and momentum after impact and transfers that energy to the target."
 
All interesting comments. Please keep them coming.

Our club steel uses steel from GT Targets for the Steel Challenge. Some was damaged when it was used for a carbine class, but it was only dents, no holes.

Just so I understand, the vendor sold a product rated at 100 yards, then it was shot at 25 yards?
Yes, and I knew better, I was just curious.

How was it mounted?
They use a "cap" with a spot in it to hang the plate from. The plate has a "hanger" welded on the back. There is some movement when shot. There is a little bit of slop on the fit of the 2X4 top and bottom as well. I made the base form the bottom of an IV pole.

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Steel

Gentlemen.

I sincerely believe the manufacturers guidelines to shoot at their steel no closer than 100 yds has little to do with the steels reaction to various bullets as it does liability due to splashback, riccochets and other bullet frags coming back to hurt the shooter.

Although I haven't checked the ballistics of various rounds at 25 and 100, I doubt there is enough of a difference to completely penetrate the steel at 25 and not do significant damage at 100.

Just my thoughts here.

I have taken a carbine class that shoots gongs at about 50 at dusk. The object is to see how fading light limits someone shooting irons to clearly see the camo'd gongs and what the difference is to how carbines with glass allow more light to make hits further into dusk. I cannot remember any splashback at that range (class of 8).
I shoot steel as close as 7yds (handgun) and have had no problem (yet) with rifle fire at 50. I do angle the steel forward to maximize deflection downward but bullets explode on contact at an angle of approximately 20 degrees off the flat. This is the reason all steel shooters should have a billed cap on (bill forward) to minimize the risk of downward falling bullet frags getting between safety glasses and your eye.

My opinion may very well differ from many here and there is always more risk associated with shooting steel than paper.
 
A $44 Steel Plate down the drain

I'm always amazed at how much AR500 targets sell for. Supply and demand I guess...

I work in the steel industry and we quoted a job a couple of years ago for a water treatment facility that specced some large AR500 plates to act as shields so the flowing water didn't erode the concrete structure. As I recall, it wasn't much more expensive than mild steel plate which we can buy all day for cheaper than $.70/lb. Now I know that number is for large purchases, but $44.00 per plate must include a healthy profit margin nevertheless.
 
Walkalong,
We're hosting an "industry" shoot next week and in preparation for that we've been setting up 3/8" AR500 targets and testing firearm/ammunition function for the past couple of days. We shot three rounds of 55gr MC .223 Rem out of a 16" barreled AR15 approximately 20 yards from one of the 6" plates. The three rounds made decent sized divots in the plate (maybe 1/8" deep) but didn't pass through. Based on the damage to the plate we've decided to use frangible ammunition.
 
Jeff H said:
but $44.00 per plate must include a healthy profit margin nevertheless.

There's some cost associated with cutting the plate. The best method is to use a water jet and those things aren't cheap. But I agree that AR500 plate is expensive.
 
All interesting comments. Please keep them coming.
Do not shoot rifles at steel at 25 yards. If the steel is and stays smooth and flat you likely won't have any problems. If it doesn't stay smooth and flat steel will shoot back. Sticking a regular bolt in the hole is a bad idea too, as the head will send splatter back. A smooth/flat counter sunk bolt like those used to fasten the cutting edge to plows and other implements, properly installed would work.
 
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