AR built Kit & tools
- Thread starter Mark_Mark
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adcoch1
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I use a Magpul build wrench and a few pairs of needle nose pliers, and a small pair of channel locks with electrical tape to avoid scratches. And a medium bench vice. I believe that is the absolute minimum for upper and lower builds other than a few Allen wrench and punches. But there are tons of tools out there. The vice blocks and action rod thing that sits in the upper during barrel install are my best recommendations. Brownells or Midway USA have them all.
LiveLife
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I highly recommend splined reaction/action rod to lock with barrel lugs when tightening/torquing the barrel nut (30-35 ft-lbs) to eliminate stressing the upper receiver - https://www.shootingillustrated.com/content/ar-15-barrel-installation-doing-it-right/
- Geissele Reaction Rod $99 (Original) - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007066047/?pid=444133
- Geissele Reaction Rod $80 (On backorder) - https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/bore-barrel-tools/gun-barrel-tools/ar-15m16-reaction-rod/
- KZ Barrel Spline Socket Rod $70 (Copy) - https://botach.com/kz-barrel-spline-socket-steel-rod-ar15-m4-upper-receivers/
- Wheeler Delta Upper Receiver Action Rod $60 - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021330574?pid=584099
- Odin Works (Sunex) crowfoot wrench $14 (Rated to 40-50 ft-lbs) - https://www.primaryarms.com/odin-works-crowsfoot-wrench-for-223-barrel-nut
- Sunex crowfoot wrench $15 - https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-97740-...m_crc_dp_lf_d_t1_sccl_2_3/134-9775389-4566567
- BZBMGMO crowfoot wrench $10 (Rated to 35 ft-lbs) - https://www.amazon.com/BZBMGMO-1-1-...P9/ref=d_pd_sim_sccl_3_11/134-9775389-4566567
Roll pin punch, Universal bench block and hammer $16 - https://www.amazon.com/Gunsmithing-...words=roll+pin+punches&qid=1696882130&sr=8-15
Real Avid Master Bench Block $28 - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019647314/?pid=266818
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I wouldn't buy a kit, too much stuff you'll never need and not enough of what you will need. Trial and error has gotten me to this point.
Upper Assembly:
Brass Hammer
Roll Pin Punches
Roll Pin Holders
Wheeler Bench Block
Birchwood Casey AL Black
Barrel / HG Assembly:
- Vise (pick a medium size one of your choice)
- Torque Wrench (Go to Lowe's or Home Depot)
- Breaker Bar (I use a Craftsman)
Midwest Industries URR
Wheeler Vise Block
FCD Joint Muzzle Wrench
Wheeler FAT Wrench
KAK Dimple Jig
AeroShell 64
Vibra Tite Hot Lock
FCD Gas Tube Pin Tool
Unless I forgot something, this is everything you should need to do it correctly and most efficiently.
ETA: This assumes your rail comes with a barrel nut and wrench, if not get the one that works with your barrel nut or buy an AR15 wrench for standard Colt style nuts.
Upper Assembly:
Brass Hammer
Roll Pin Punches
Roll Pin Holders
Wheeler Bench Block
Birchwood Casey AL Black
Barrel / HG Assembly:
- Vise (pick a medium size one of your choice)
- Torque Wrench (Go to Lowe's or Home Depot)
- Breaker Bar (I use a Craftsman)
Midwest Industries URR
Wheeler Vise Block
FCD Joint Muzzle Wrench
Wheeler FAT Wrench
KAK Dimple Jig
AeroShell 64
Vibra Tite Hot Lock
FCD Gas Tube Pin Tool
Unless I forgot something, this is everything you should need to do it correctly and most efficiently.
ETA: This assumes your rail comes with a barrel nut and wrench, if not get the one that works with your barrel nut or buy an AR15 wrench for standard Colt style nuts.
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InTheSwamp
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^^^
That was my path to what I own.
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Mark_Mark
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Been looking up AR builds and they pretty much use what’s on that list. I’m research on the Reaction Rods now. Looks like it very handle tool
LiveLife
Member
Yes it is.
Without the reaction/action rod, you will need to clamp the upper receiver into the vise and torsional force applied to tighten the barrel nut will stress the aluminum upper receiver.
Using the lugs of the barrel to resist the tightening of the barrel nut is MUCH better way as upper receiver is not stressed. 
InTheSwamp
Member
Never used one, but they're handy indeed. I use the Magpul BEV Block; it does the same, just a different procedure.
LiveLife
Member
I almost bought the Magpul block as it uses the same principle as reaction/action rod. I decided on the reaction rod for easier mounting/unmounting as barrel/upper receiver simply slide on and off the splines.
InTheSwamp
Member
BEV is used for upper and lower receivers' assembly. Saves some money, while doing the same as the RR.
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Mark_Mark
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For newbies, great video on the BEV tool
youtu.be
Magpul Bev Block Review Ep 1506
In this episode we review the new BEV Block fixture tool made by Magpul for your AR15 platform rifle. Magpul is a company mostly known for their amazing mag...
youtu.be
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Mark_Mark
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for the lower? I have done 5-7 lower and learned ticks on not letting them fly out everywhere
InTheSwamp
Member
Midwest plus any needed crowfoot, depending on barrel nut.
bfoosh006
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While this link isn't about tools... the 4 videos do help show assm. tricks geared towards improving accuracy ( precision really )
https://criterionbarrels.com/media/accurizing-the-ar-15-video-series/?v=7516fd43adaa
https://criterionbarrels.com/media/accurizing-the-ar-15-video-series/?v=7516fd43adaa
Those videos on accurizing lost my attention on part 2 when he promotes the "Accu-Wedge." - A complete waste of money and I wouldn't put one in any rifle I own.
There are trick to installing the front take down detent spring. I use a drill bit the same size or slightly smaller than the pin. Make sure to use the end of the bit that is not fluted.
Once you get the spring and detent in place you slide the drill bit in from the left side and the bevel will slip over the detent and help hold it in place. Then just keep the end of the take down pin against the drill bit as you push the pin in. I haven't had a spring or detent go flying into a different dimension in a while using this method.
I like using masking or painters tape to protect the lower while installing the bolt hold open roll pin. When it comes to installing the fire control pins, I like to use my punches as a guide to keep everything lined up as I tap the pins in. I assemble everything except the trigger guard in my lap. I'll set the lower on my work bench when installing the trigger guard.
Make sure to get a quality armorer's wrench for installing the castle nut (carbine buffers) since some of the cheaper wrenches are slightly oversized and can roll the edges of the castle nut.
For the upper I use a clam shell in my vise. This is the one I use: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007359056?pid=210021
I prefer to use crowfoot wrenches for installing/torquing the barrel nut. This again is because cheaper armorer's wrenches are slightly oversized. Plus you will run into different size barrel nuts on free float handguards. For drop in handguard barrel nuts I just use the armorer's wrench. For installing muzzle devices, I just wrap an old belt around the barrel and put it into a vise. Most muzzle devices do not require a lot of torque when using a crush washer.
Don't forget a decent torque wrench for the barrel nut. I always try to stay closer to 30-40 foot pounds to get the notches lines up for the gas tube. I think the highest I have had to go was about 55 foot pounds.
Once you get the spring and detent in place you slide the drill bit in from the left side and the bevel will slip over the detent and help hold it in place. Then just keep the end of the take down pin against the drill bit as you push the pin in. I haven't had a spring or detent go flying into a different dimension in a while using this method.
I like using masking or painters tape to protect the lower while installing the bolt hold open roll pin. When it comes to installing the fire control pins, I like to use my punches as a guide to keep everything lined up as I tap the pins in. I assemble everything except the trigger guard in my lap. I'll set the lower on my work bench when installing the trigger guard.
Make sure to get a quality armorer's wrench for installing the castle nut (carbine buffers) since some of the cheaper wrenches are slightly oversized and can roll the edges of the castle nut.
For the upper I use a clam shell in my vise. This is the one I use: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007359056?pid=210021
I prefer to use crowfoot wrenches for installing/torquing the barrel nut. This again is because cheaper armorer's wrenches are slightly oversized. Plus you will run into different size barrel nuts on free float handguards. For drop in handguard barrel nuts I just use the armorer's wrench. For installing muzzle devices, I just wrap an old belt around the barrel and put it into a vise. Most muzzle devices do not require a lot of torque when using a crush washer.
Don't forget a decent torque wrench for the barrel nut. I always try to stay closer to 30-40 foot pounds to get the notches lines up for the gas tube. I think the highest I have had to go was about 55 foot pounds.
I included lowers in my reply since we never know who will be reading the thread looking for information.
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Mark_Mark
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Mark_Mark
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I’m good with the lower, even learned how to polish the important parts and tigger spring combo’s and such.
My challenge will be the Upper and replacing and installing barrels. I want to do it correctly, seen videos on setting the nut/threads by tightening & loosening 3 times.
I did buy the Wheeler RR bar to give it a try. and I’ll buy a ClawFoot and toque wrench from Harbor Fright.
Do you guys use 1/2” Toque wrench or the smaller size?
