AR built Kit & tools

HKGuns said:
Those videos on accurizing lost my attention on part 2 when he promotes the "Accu-Wedge." - A complete waste of money and I wouldn't put one in any rifle I own.
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You are more then welcome to your own opinion..
But Try watching the 3rd video as well.

And FWIW, Joe Carlos got a positive result. For those who don't know who Joe Carlo's is... try reading some of his work and results.
https://www.thefreelibrary.com/Carlos,+Joe-a14906


Upper/Lower Fit

In "The Accu-Wedge" (April 2017) I recount my initial tests with the USAR Team uppers. Using the same Colt AR-15 in a machine rest, I rated the upper-to-lower fit as "average" tightness.The results were horrible! Average ten-shot groups with match-grade 77grain ammo were in excess of MOA. I didn't initially use an Accu-Wedge but did part way through the test. Resting the exact same equipment and ammunition, adding that $5 piece of red bubble gum resulted in an enormous 26% average reduction in group size! I have never tested or fired an AR without a fresh, tightly-fitted Accu-Wedge in place since!

https://www.thefreelibrary.com/Maximizing+The+AR-15:+A+former+military+armorer+reveals+his+secrets...-a0520713898
 
I watched part 3 and agree with nearly everything. A couple minor differences:

- Completely agree on the head spacing topic too many people overlook this on AR's. I use Forrester 556 and 223.
- I don't use 609 on the barrel as I don't want to have to heat it to get it off in the future. I can see where that would have a positive effect on accuracy.
(I do use 620 when installing new gas keys as well as OCKscrews)
- I use Aeroshell 64 instead of anti-seize, but they mention it, so good here.
- When I season the threads, I take it to the Barrel nut MFG recommended full torque spec 3 times and back it off with the breaker bar and the fourth time is the final torque value. Not sure the method of seasoning shown is enough, but at least they show it.

I may try using 609 on my current A2 build in progress to see if I can tell any difference.

But I'm just an experienced amateur who likes to try to do things correctly.
 
HKGuns said:
I watched part 3 and agree with nearly everything. A couple minor differences:

- Completely agree on the head spacing topic too many people overlook this on AR's. I use Forrester 556 and 223.
- I don't use 609 on the barrel as I don't want to have to heat it to get it off in the future. I can see where that would have a positive effect on accuracy.
(I do use 620 when installing new gas keys as well as OCKscrews)
- I use Aeroshell 64 instead of anti-seize, but they mention it, so good here.
- When I season the threads, I take it to the Barrel nut MFG recommended full torque spec 3 times and back it off with the breaker bar and the fourth time is the final torque value. Not sure the method of seasoning shown is enough, but at least they show it.

I may try using 609 on my current A2 build in progress to see if I can tell any difference.

But I'm just an experienced amateur who likes to try to do things correctly.
Click to expand...
I was just going to ask if I can use AreoShell instead of Anti-S !

I’m getting headspace gauges for peace of mind
 
Bench vise,
Action wrench
roll pin punches
receiver block

The rest is all standard hand tools.

The need for a torque wrench depends on your experience wrenching. I have been building engines for 20 years so I don't need a torque wrench to know what the appropriate torque on a barrel nut is. If you don't already own a torque wrench then perhaps that would be a sign that you might need one.
 
someguy2800 said:
Bench vise,
Action wrench
roll pin punches
receiver block

The rest is all standard hand tools.

The need for a torque wrench depends on your experience wrenching. I have been building engines for 20 years so I don't need a torque wrench to know what the appropriate torque on a barrel nut is. If you don't already own a torque wrench then perhaps that would be a sign that you might need one.
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that Action Rod does a great job!

8515F65B-928D-46B2-A27E-EE68E9752347.jpeg
 
Mark_Mark said:
that Action Rod does a great job!
Click to expand...
👍

Also great for installing muzzle devices, gas block/tube and handguards, even setting up scope/rings/mount along with sights. I have other blocks and cleaning stands and it's fast/easy to clamp on the reaction rod to slide the upper receiver/barrel on to work on. Flip the receiver/barrel upside down to install Mlok rails and other accessories. Now I only use the mag block when working on the lower.

And don't forget anti-seize on receiver threads and 3 times tighten/loosen before final torquing.

someguy2800 said:
I don't use one but to each his own. I use the plastic receiver blocks for forged uppers and for most billet uppers I just clamp them directly in the vice with plastic soft jaws.
Click to expand...
Added bonus of using the reaction rod over other "clamp on" receiver block is that instead of just using for installing barrel nut, you can also use it as "work block" to hold upper/barrel steady to access all the parts of upper receiver while barrel is engaged to lugs.
 
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Mark_Mark said:
I have not built a complete upper AR before. I have plenty of parts & barrels.

what tool kit would you folks recommend on to getting going?

thanks!
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I've put more than one AR together. They are not "built" but assembled - just like Legos (or Tinker Toys for the more seasoned among the readers here).

Not wanting to deplete my ammo fund, all that was needed was a medium Vise-Grips, with plastic tape for the jaws, two finish nails filed down to make just the right sized punches, a big screwdriver, and a little hammer from my wife's pink toolbox. Since I'm old and feeble I also found a magnifying glass and a needle-nose pliers to help with the itty-bitty parts.

Honest - that is all you need to get the job done.

IMG_0143.jpg
 
crstrode said:
I've put more than one AR together. They are not "built" but assembled - just like Legos (or Tinker Toys for the more seasoned among the readers here).

Not wanting to deplete my ammo fund, all that was needed was a medium Vise-Grips, with plastic tape for the jaws, two finish nails filed down to make just the right sized punches, a big screwdriver, and a little hammer from my wife's pink toolbox. Since I'm old and feeble I also found a magnifying glass and a needle-nose pliers to help with the itty-bitty parts.

Honest - that is all you need to get the job done.

View attachment 1175427
Click to expand...
Oooh yeah,… we an’t boring out barrels! Stoner was a genius with the design of the gun, lol interchangeable and mill spec!
 
LiveLife said:
👍

Also great for installing muzzle devices, gas block/tube and handguards, even setting up scope/rings/mount along with sights. I have other blocks and cleaning stands and it's fast/easy to clamp on the reaction rod to slide the upper receiver/barrel on to work on. Flip the receiver/barrel upside down to install Mlok rails and other accessories. Now I only use the mag block when working on the lower.

And don't forget anti-seize on receiver threads and 3 times tighten/loosen before final torquing.


Added bonus of using the reaction rod over other "clamp on" receiver block is that instead of just using for installing barrel nut, you can also use it as "work block" to hold upper/barrel steady to access all the parts of upper receiver while barrel is engaged to lugs.
Click to expand...
thanks ! I like quality tools and dies!
 
I don't recommend using action rods as it's well documented that they  may cause problems while torquing.

Everyone pretty much covered what's needed and then some. One thing I would also suggest picking up cheap from Harbour Freight, Amazon, or Walmart, or something for around $20 or do is a heat gun. It will be needed for some barrel to upper receiver installations. Oh, and not sure if it was been mentioned, but some red locktite for possible gas block sets crews and antiseize grease for the barrel. I also use crush washer or high temp rubber gaskets to keep the muzzle brake from coming loose.
 
InTheSwamp said:
A RR squeeze gone wrong could break the indexing pin. I take clam shells or BEV every day.
I use the VISM for AR-15 and AR-10, except when installing muzzle brakes; the BEV is better suited for it.
Click to expand...
Agreed... I personally use a the Magpul BEV Block, but their are plenty of less expensive options. Others are hell bent on using action rods, but I'm not risking ruining a $200-$300 barrel when I can simply use a different affordable tool to get the job done.

As you pointed out, all the and lbs forces of torque are being put on the small index pin. While some have the "but it hasn't happened to me" attitude, I've seen a LOT of examples of bent or sheared off index pins. It's just not worth the risk unless you like to gamble, and your money and time is no object.

@Mark_Mark Google and research "Reaction Rod Index Pin" before you make a decision about which tool you'd like to go with.
 
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The sail on the MI URR and others, of similar design, take the torque off the index pin. Clamshells work too, but I prefer my MI Rod over the Delta clamshell I also own. As stated above, it also verifies the barrel extension is aligned properly.

The original G-RR is the one famous for breaking index pins.
 
What are you realistically gonna do? Slap together 1 upper and check that box on the bucket list? Are you gonna use it a few times to swap handguards? Are you gonna build a dozen uppers, constantly reconfiguring until everything is perfect just to find the next even more perfect whizbang doomaflotchie? Your reality determines the grade of tools. I have built a dozen or so with the cheapest tools on the market. I broke 1 tooth off of a pin style barrel nut wrench and I bought another, slightly better wrench that has served me well. My clamshell upper vice blocks and a harbor freight table vise are plenty, I just c-clamp the vice to something for torquing the barrel nut. I think I dropped about 30 bucks on tools including the $9 table vise when I built my first upper. To pinpoint the date, the stuff came in the mail the weekend before I opened the package, and I assembled 2 complete guns from parts as the votes got tallied for Hilary to beat Trump, and I was done in time to watch her absolute implosion as the realization that her 98% probable victory somehow turned into a loss.

If I were to buy kit today, there are some sets that seem like fair buys, but you never get the best of everything by buying a single set. There are some really good tools out there for affordable prices if you go with Chinese copies of overpriced American tools, but that seems sacrilegious. Spend whatever you wish to spend, and you’re probably going to get your moneys worth, but know that no matter what brand you buy, you’re paying a premium for whatever sticker is on the side. So… my setup today would be the same as it currently is. Cheap clamshell blocks, not the cheapest but close to it on an armorers wrench, just don’t buy cast metal there, harbor freight table vise, cheap pin punch kit, folding Allen wrench pack, cheap soft brass hammer (harbor freight is always sold out, order online)
 
WestKentucky said:
What are you realistically gonna do? Slap together 1 upper and check that box on the bucket list? Are you gonna use it a few times to swap handguards? Are you gonna build a dozen uppers, constantly reconfiguring until everything is perfect just to find the next even more perfect whizbang doomaflotchie? Your reality determines the grade of tools. I have built a dozen or so with the cheapest tools on the market. I broke 1 tooth off of a pin style barrel nut wrench and I bought another, slightly better wrench that has served me well. My clamshell upper vice blocks and a harbor freight table vise are plenty, I just c-clamp the vice to something for torquing the barrel nut. I think I dropped about 30 bucks on tools including the $9 table vise when I built my first upper. To pinpoint the date, the stuff came in the mail the weekend before I opened the package, and I assembled 2 complete guns from parts as the votes got tallied for Hilary to beat Trump, and I was done in time to watch her absolute implosion as the realization that her 98% probable victory somehow turned into a loss.

If I were to buy kit today, there are some sets that seem like fair buys, but you never get the best of everything by buying a single set. There are some really good tools out there for affordable prices if you go with Chinese copies of overpriced American tools, but that seems sacrilegious. Spend whatever you wish to spend, and you’re probably going to get your moneys worth, but know that no matter what brand you buy, you’re paying a premium for whatever sticker is on the side. So… my setup today would be the same as it currently is. Cheap clamshell blocks, not the cheapest but close to it on an armorers wrench, just don’t buy cast metal there, harbor freight table vise, cheap pin punch kit, folding Allen wrench pack, cheap soft brass hammer (harbor freight is always sold out, order online)
Click to expand...
Just as a newbie using a reaction rod...🤣
 
InTheSwamp said:
A RR squeeze gone wrong could break the indexing pin. I take clam shells or BEV every day.
I use the VISM for AR-15 and AR-10, except when installing muzzle brakes; the BEV is better suited for it.
Click to expand...
I’m getting a BEV too! one way to figure out what tool Like best
 
Styx said:
Agreed... I personally use a the Magpul BEV Block, but their are plenty of less expensive options. Others are hell bent on using action rods, but I'm not risking ruining a $200-$300 barrel when I can simply use a different affordable tool to get the job done.

As you pointed out, all the and lbs forces of torque are being put on the small index pin. While some have the "but it hasn't happened to me" attitude, I've seen a LOT of examples of bent or sheared off index pins. It's just not worth the risk unless you like to gamble, and your money and time is no object.

@Mark_Mark Google and research "Reaction Rod Index Pin" before you make a decision about which tool you'd like to go with.
Click to expand...
googling right now
 
WestKentucky said:
What are you realistically gonna do? Slap together 1 upper and check that box on the bucket list? Are you gonna use it a few times to swap handguards? Are you gonna build a dozen uppers, constantly reconfiguring until everything is perfect just to find the next even more perfect whizbang doomaflotchie? Your reality determines the grade of tools. I have built a dozen or so with the cheapest tools on the market. I broke 1 tooth off of a pin style barrel nut wrench and I bought another, slightly better wrench that has served me well. My clamshell upper vice blocks and a harbor freight table vise are plenty, I just c-clamp the vice to something for torquing the barrel nut. I think I dropped about 30 bucks on tools including the $9 table vise when I built my first upper. To pinpoint the date, the stuff came in the mail the weekend before I opened the package, and I assembled 2 complete guns from parts as the votes got tallied for Hilary to beat Trump, and I was done in time to watch her absolute implosion as the realization that her 98% probable victory somehow turned into a loss.

If I were to buy kit today, there are some sets that seem like fair buys, but you never get the best of everything by buying a single set. There are some really good tools out there for affordable prices if you go with Chinese copies of overpriced American tools, but that seems sacrilegious. Spend whatever you wish to spend, and you’re probably going to get your moneys worth, but know that no matter what brand you buy, you’re paying a premium for whatever sticker is on the side. So… my setup today would be the same as it currently is. Cheap clamshell blocks, not the cheapest but close to it on an armorers wrench, just don’t buy cast metal there, harbor freight table vise, cheap pin punch kit, folding Allen wrench pack, cheap soft brass hammer (harbor freight is always sold out, order online)
Click to expand...
Amen! to it all!
 
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