AR15 custom work

[flexible]

Hi everyone; I had asked last week for advice on a new AR15 and a lot of people recommended getting a new barrel and trigger for my S&W M&P15.

I contacted S&W and they are asking for $600 to $800 to add a new 20 inch barrel and match trigger; Wilson is asking for ~$600.

any recommendations on who to go to for the work?

Also, what scope would be a good one for target work; I've heard Nikon makes one easily adjustable for 100, 200 & 300 yards.

thanks

flexible

 

[jr_roosa]

Trigger is easy...look at Geissele and pick one that fits your needs. That will be about $200-$300 depending on what you like. You pop out the pins and put it in yourself.

Barrel is a little more tricky.

You could have your current upper rebarreled by Adco or any other reasonable gunsmith, or you could pick up any one of a number of complete uppers and use your current bolt carrier.

I would not waste money on gunsmithing if I could find an upper that suits my needs. Then you get to keep your old upper for plinking or whatever. You can get a complete White Oak Armory 20" varmint upper for $610 including the BCG.

Get the trigger first...you may find that it makes you happy with the rest of the rifle as it is.

-J.

 

[flexible]

AR15 trigger

thanks for the info and it's a great idea. If you don't mind a couple of questions -- what is the difference between small pin and large pin and does LR308 stand for the .308 rifles vs. 5.56?

thanks
flexible

 

[zerobarrier]

I just put the giessle ssa-e trigger on my S&W M&P 15 and it is awesome. You want the small pin, large pin is for older model colts I believe. LR-308 refers to the DPMS 308 AR, most if not all of their triggers work for both 5.56 and 308. Millet makes a decent scope for around $500 6-25x also the bushnell elite series are nice for around 800-900. they are 4.5-30x so it can be used for 50 yards all the way out to 1000yards if needed. As for barrels you can buy a Daniel defense, ar stoner, or DPMS barrel from midway in the 200 range, they are available in 1in9, 1in8, or 1in7 twist with your choice of length 16-24" and fluted or non-fluted. Then you can put the barrel on yourself, if you don't feel like you can just take the new barrel to your local gunsmith and he can do it(He shouldn't charge you too much). On my ar I have a Burris 4.5-14x e1 reticle and I really like it. Got it on ebay for 299.

 

[hso]

Wilson OR purchase a 20" upper and drop it on yourself.

 

[redneck2]

I'm typically not a fan of changing major parts on a factory rifle. It costs more than buying the right thing from the factory, and you end up with an odd ball that's worth less than the original.

Me, I'd sell either the upper or whole rifle and get the right thing from the get-go. I'm looking at target/varmint uppers right now. White Oak or RRA maybe. You can get a RRA lower with a 2 stage trigger that's really sweet and the correct upper at the same time. With hand loads 1/2" should be attainable

When you say target, that covers a lot of area. On my hunting AR (.358 WSSM) I use a 4-14x40 Leupold VX-R. Incredible scope. On my varminter I've got a Leupold VX-III 6.5x-20x40. Works great. If you're serious about target, you need magnification. Period. Stronger magnification shows flaws in lower quality units. Scope quality makes a difference.

 

[gotigers]

I'd do it myself. Geissele SSA-E.

The barrel is a bit more tricky as mentioned. Just stick with a good name and good specs. Stainless, HBAR, Wylde chamber, 1:8 twist. Get some vise blocks and an armorer's wrench and do it yourself.

 

[atomd]

I'm typically not a fan of changing major parts on a factory rifle. It costs more than buying the right thing from the factory, and you end up with an odd ball that's worth less than the original.

If you bought all the parts and put it together, you could easily just part it back out if you wanted to get rid of it. Some parts hold their value very well and sometimes when they are discontinued or hard to find they might even go for more (see how much you'll pay for a stripped magpul lower). The beauty of putting it together yourself is that you can have it exactly how you want it. I don't think it affects the value quite as much on an AR when you change the parts compared to other guns. A lot of companies allow you to add or change parts right when you order a complete rifle.

The only exception to this rule is companies that have parts they only include on a new rifle. Such as having a Larue upper with a Larue lower....you can only get the lower if you buy the whole gun. Obviously that gun is going to be worth more because it has a harder to obtain matching part that you aren't going to just buy by itself.

Most higher end guns come as even more of a frankengun anyways. If you buy say a Noveske gun, the upper is made by vltor, the barrel is noveske (blank made by pac nor), the trigger is made by geissele, the charging handle is a vltor for bcm (gunfighter), the flash hider is made by aac or someone else, the stock is made by vltor, the bolt carrier group is made by CMT, etc etc....No one really makes all the parts themselves, they just piece together what they want for their variation and have their rollmarks on it. There are some companies that make a lot more of the parts than others but most ARs sold these days are like that.

 

[Tophernj]

Not sure where in NJ you are, but there is a good gunsmith in Bayonne with reasonable rates and wait times. OMG Custom Guns. His name is Rick.

C

 

[TBH]

Troy is running a sale on an 16" match upper this weekend.