AR15 trigger

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Red Cent

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McLeansville, NC by way of WV SASS 29170L
A buddy of mine has a Hi-Standard AR15. He installed a Bushmaster Competition Two Stage trigger kit. And it doesn't work.

With just the lower, you can cock the hammer and the trigger will not move except when you push it forward. When you push it forward, you "set" the trigger. At that point, it has a very light trigger and will drop the hammer normally.

And, cock the hammer, turn the selector from fire towards safe and just before the selector points to safe, the trigger will "set" and drop the hammer normally.

I have backed out the OT screw just a tad and I have backed the spring plunger out a tad also. Doing these items did not change the trigger.

In the fire position, I am aware of the AR's safety having the flat spot and rolling the selector to safe simply blocks the trigger. Thats the way the trigger feels when you first cock the hammer with safety off. I have watched the mechanism and it has not registered why the hammer moves a couple of hundreds of an inch when you push the trigger forward.

You can cock the hammer with the selector on safe or fire and you cannot drop the hammer with the trigger. You gotta push it forward or you can rotate the selector to safe and back and it will drop the hammer.

The directions does not mention anything about this. Simply tells you to install everything as you would a normal trigger except adjusting the plunger spring for the two stage and the OT adjustment.

Any clue?
 
Double check the install
8448592-SCGK.gif

http://www.bushmaster.com/faqs/afmviewfaq.aspx?faqid=30
 
If that were me, I would pick up the phone to call the manufacturer ask him to walk me through the problem or have him replace a defective unit. Don't have a AD because of a defective trigger.
 
Red Cent, isn't that supposed to be a two stage trigger? In any case, I'd call Bushmaster. You may have a trigger/lower incompatiblity.
 
We both agreed it was a compatibility problem between him and the instruction document. I have the original trigger and I will do my infamous (here) 3# no creep trigger.

I have not removed the Comp trigger group yet. I will put it on my jig and check clearances.

Darn, I thought I could turn a couple of screws and get a steak.:evil:
 
I bought a Bushmaster trigger once when I could not get a Frank White trigger (Compass Lake). They looked the same but, boy, they did not work the same.

Light primer strikes were the main problem, which were mostly corrected with a heavier, aftermarket hammer spring, but I never had confidence in the trigger. Also, the trigger frequently would not return to "home". One would have to push it forward manually.

My solution, I replaced the trigger with a different brand.
 
The trigger spring WAS backwards.

Tony, yes it is. Kinda neat. Looking down on the safety in fire position there is a long set screw vertical in the safety. there is a smaller horizontal set screw for lock. The long set screw has a set screw in its center holding a spring and a plunger sticking through the bottom of the long set screw. This touches the left arm of the trigger platform. This plunger gives the two stage feel.

A tad to the right of the long set screw there is a another vertical set screw that touches the right arm of the triger platform. It also has a horizontal set screw for lock. This is the OT stop/

I installed the trigger back into the lower loosening the 2 stage plunger and OT screw. Sorry but that is a terrible trigger. I didn't weigh it but , man, the creep. Probably 6#s or over. Not as advertised.

I took his factory trigger and did a 4.5# crisp, no creep (imperceptible) release. Solid safety and great reset.

I will put the Two Stage in and examine it further. I do not prefer a two stage but then I was not raised with one. I cannot see it in competiton and I suppose a personal choice for HD. Any rapid fire senario renders it useless.

Later.
 
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