Auto Ordnance 1911 Review

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rs525

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Just got back from the range with my new Auto Ordnance GI style M1911A1. Just shot it for the first time using 230 grain FMJ from Freedom Munitions. I had not shot a .45 since I first learned how to shoot a pistol when I was about 13, I remembered it not being good so I was worried about how bad it was going to be to shoot. But the good news is that it's actually quite pleasant to shoot. The recoil was not bad whatsoever, not harsh just more of a soft push like a lot people say. It may be because of the 5 inch barrel and the weight of the gun, but it is WAY softer shooting than a .380 semi auto or a snub nosed .38 revolver.
Felt good enough in the hand and I initially hated the slide release but after some working in, it works pretty good now. I did have to use my left thumb instead of my right thumb because it's too far forward but it should be easy enough to get used to. I only had 100 rounds but it was 100% reliable. No failures to eject or feed and I was using Chip McCormick 8 round flush fit magazines (highly recommended by the way).
Now the downsides. The sights are not good. I definitely want to replace them at a later date with Harrison HD Retro sights.
The gun does have the dumb Series 80 safety system which results in the trigger being too heavy for a 1911. It definitely needs to be taken out.
I was not accurate with it even at 7 yards. It seems to be shooting very low left or missing the target entirely, so I don't know what's going on.
Finally taking the gun down for field stripping is HORRIBLE. Even with a bushing wrench from Real Avid, it is the worst semi auto for field stripping I have done so far. The bushing itself seems so stiff that I need to use a rubber mallet to get it off. The Real Avid does get the barrel bushing and recoil spring OFF the gun but getting it back ON the gun it cannot do so what's the point? I can see why JMB got rid of many of the 1911 features with the Hi Power like the bushing and grip safety.
But overall I'm very happy with my purchase. For about $750 total, it's hard to beat the Auto Ordnance if you want that classic GI style 1911 we all grew up with in movies and tv shows and not pay a fortune for a real Colt. I'm sure with improvements to the gun itself, I can become really proficient with it.
 
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Just got back from the range with my new Auto Ordnance GI style M1911A1. Just shot it for the first time using 230 grain FMJ from Freedom Munitions. I had not shot a .45 since I first learned how to shoot a pistol when I was about 13, I remembered it not being good so I was worried about how bad it was going to be to shoot. But the good news is that it's actually quite pleasant to shoot. The recoil was not bad whatsoever, not harsh just more of a soft push like a lot people say. It may be because of the 5 inch barrel and the weight of the gun, but it is WAY softer shooting than a .380 semi auto or a snub nosed .38 revolver.
Felt good enough in the hand and I initially hated the slide release but after some working in, it works pretty good now. I did have to use my left thumb instead of my right thumb because it's too far forward but it should be easy enough to get used to. I only had 100 rounds but it was 100% reliable. No failures to eject or feed and I was using Chip McCormick 8 round flush fit magazines (highly recommended by the way).
Now the downsides. The sights are not good. I definitely want to replace them at a later date with Harrison HD Retro sights. The gun does have the dumb Series 80 safety system which results in the trigger being too heavy for a 1911. It definitely needs to be taken out. I was not accurate with it even at 7 yards. It seems to be shooting very low left or missing the target entirely, so I don't know what's going on. Finally taking the gun down for field stripping is HORRIBLE. Even with a bushing wrench from Real Avid, it is the worst semi auto for field stripping I have done so far. The bushing itself seems so stiff that I need to use a rubber mallet to get it off. The Real Avid does get the barrel bushing and recoil spring OFF the gun but getting it back ON the gun it cannot do so what's the point? I can see why JMB got rid of many of the 1911 features with the Hi Power like the bushing and grip safety.
But overall I'm very happy with my purchase. For about $750 total, it's hard to beat the Auto Ordnance if you want that classic GI style 1911 we all grew up with in movies and tv shows and not pay a fortune for a real Colt. I'm sure with improvements to the gun itself, I can become really proficient with it.
A lot of new guns will need some breaking in to fit the parts and loosen some of the initial stiffness, to me its like the first few thousand miles on a new car.

My Kimber 9mm is tough to take down like yours is, it needs the wrench for leverage, too. Ive sent the recoil spring plug flying a couple of times already when I am not paying full attention. My SA V-16 .45 Super is almost impossible to reassemble by one person, that gun is by far my least favorite 1911 to clean.

Congratulations on buying your new 1911. As you shoot it more you will become more familiar with its nuances. If you can find some good local training try to take a class or two. It will improve both your gun handling and your shooting as you progress. :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
S80 firing pin obstruction does not normally add all that much to weight of pull; 1/4 to 1/2 lb maybe.
There are other factors like hammer - sear engagement, sear spring tension, and generally rough parts.

Striking low left is a symptom of yanking the tough trigger and "heeling" the gun against anticipated recoil.

You should not need a bushing wrench to get into a GI type pistol. More rough parts maybe.

Remember, the gun was designed for use and care by a soldier who might or might not have made it out of grammar school.

Sights, well they are what they were, modern replacements don't require anything but money.
 
Perhaps I may have more 1911 experience, or just more "muscle memory," or, just got a better example.

But my AO was just fine. Trigger pull was legit GI, 4-5#, disassemble nothing very difficult, if with strong, new, springs. And, I have more than passing familiarity with GI sights. So, perhaps, I do not expect more of them than I generally do. My AO "POI" is lower than my Series 70, by a couple inches. Both of those are to the right of my Officer's.

I'm happy with mine.
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The gun does have the dumb Series 80 safety system which results in the trigger being too heavy for a 1911. It definitely needs to be taken out.
I agree that the Series 80 firing pin safety needs to be removed, although my goal was historical authenticity more than an improved trigger pull. (See my post #19 in this thread: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/good-1911-45acp-for-500-700.908647/ ) If you take it out, you need to use a filler piece such as this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/115140212469?hash=item1acee436f5:g:DY4AAOxy63FS0YWd

Note that these filler pieces come in various thicknesses. Measure the depth of the recess in the frame. Also, it would be a good idea to replace the firing pin and firing pin spring with standard types.
 
I agree that the Series 80 firing pin safety needs to be removed, although my goal was historical authenticity more than an improved trigger pull. (See my post #19 in this thread: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/good-1911-45acp-for-500-700.908647/ ) If you take it out, you need to use a filler piece such as this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/115140212469?hash=item1acee436f5:g:DY4AAOxy63FS0YWd

Note that these filler pieces come in various thicknesses. Measure the depth of the recess in the frame. Also, it would be a good idea to replace the firing pin and firing pin spring with standard types.
I definitely would have to take it to a gunsmith cause videos online show you basically have to disassemble the entire lower frame to get the safety components out and I don't have the skills to do that.
 
And the gunsmith might decline out of fear of liability for disabling a safety mechanism.
Probably. But removing the Series 80 safety is really an easy job. (No hand fitting is involved.) If you can field strip the gun, you can do it.
1. Separate the slide from the frame.
2. Press the firing pin in, and remove the firing pin stop. Then remove the firing pin and spring. Now you can take out the safety plunger and spring.
3. Now you can replace the firing pin, spring, and stop. Or, better, substitute standard parts for these.
4. Take out the two levers from the frame. Replace with the filler piece referred to earlier in the thread.
 
I’ve left the parts in my lone Colt Series 80 and the trigger pull is nearly indistinguishable from any well tuned 70. What @Jim Watson wrote in post #3 is spot on in my opinion. My recommended “trigger job” for the 1911 is a new Colt sear spring and more time practicing.

I too wasted money on the Real Avid tool which works only for bushing removal. Switched back to a standard wrench for all of mine. If you desire ease of breakdown it’s a few file strokes away and a minute’s sanding but realize accuracy will be affected.

To further ease disassembly I also recommend the “log man” modification which adds a small groove in the slide stop compliments of a small round needle file. No more fighting it, no more idiot marks.


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The Harrison Retro is a nice upgrade from the standard rear but like yours, my Colt shoots low unless using a combat hold.


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I have had an AO govt model for 40 years

Feeds EVERYTHING, 100% reliable, shoots good.
Bought Wife one 10 years ago. Same as the first.

Would not hesitate to have another.

I've had a West Hurley AO for almost as long. Had multiple issues right out of the box. Bad mag, rough feed ramp, and iffy extraction. 100% now and I'd do it all over again just for the learning experience.
 
Note on recent (post-1970) "GI" 1911 magazines:

There are supposed "GI" magazines floating around at gun shows, many in official-looking wrap. Beware! Most of them are bogus.

How to tell the bogus from the real ones? Look at the CAGE (Mfr.) code on the baseplate. The spurious ones say "30745" whereas the real ones say "1M291." This is Check-Mate Industries, which was a bona fide government contractor.

Here's a picture of the two next to each other. The fake one is on the left, while the real one is on the right. (You can also tell the fakes by the improper placement of the witness holes.)

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I find it interesting you said your AO was so tight that it is actually difficult to disassemble. Perhaps this was one benefit I hadn’t considered when I purchased mine from the range I worked at. As an ex rental gun, I had hundreds of people and tens of thousands of rounds I never had to pay for to do the break in on mine and the result is a gun that runs and takes down smooth as butter, while still having an even higher degree of accuracy than my 1989 Colt Government.

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