That looks pretty close to a Savage setup. That firing pin shaft is threaded in to the assembly hole, you just can't see it.
You're going to need a good set of calipers.
To start, get a reference measurement of the total LENGTH of the assembly to the tip of the firing pin to that housing it's in. (the lip the spring is butted against)
Then get a measurement of the amount the firing pin extrudes from the bolt face, at maximum, in the "fired" position. Your goal here is to get that firing pin to reach another .001 or .002 FURTHER.
Put a sturdy steel punch or good quality T handled allen wrench through that hole in the firing pin shaft and see if it ROTATES counter-clockwise. It might take a pretty substantial amount of force, and you might need to hold the rear of the firing pin assembly in a vice. (You have a reference measurement of the length already, in case it breaks free and rotates more than you intended.)
See if you can unthread that firing pin out of the housing. Once it starts moving, go 1/16 turn, re-measure. You only want to GAIN about .002" on the length. Thread/unthread as necessary to gain that length.
But a warning - I've read some articles this morning that say that the ATR firing pins are prone to BREAKAGE, but I couldn't determine where (probably the thin part, we aren't touching). So mentally prepare yourself for what might happen!
Now, this is where things get "iffy."
When you reassemble the bolt, it is POSSIBLE that there is a cross-pin that will LIMIT the forward travel of the firing pin. If the firing pin doesn't protrude from the bolt face any further than it did before, or you can't reassemble it, you might need to locate the blocking piece. Then turn the surface of the firing pin assembly down .001 or .002 to allow the firing pin to "reach forward" a hair more.
Let's see where you are following the adjustment, before we talk about removing metal though.
After you've managed to get the firing pin to extrude a little farther from the bolt surface, we'd want to make reference marks, fully remove the firing pin, and use some low or medium strength loc-tite on the threads (a little goes a long way), to prevent that firing pin shaft from rotating or setting itself back again in the future.
You're going to need a good set of calipers.
To start, get a reference measurement of the total LENGTH of the assembly to the tip of the firing pin to that housing it's in. (the lip the spring is butted against)
Then get a measurement of the amount the firing pin extrudes from the bolt face, at maximum, in the "fired" position. Your goal here is to get that firing pin to reach another .001 or .002 FURTHER.
Put a sturdy steel punch or good quality T handled allen wrench through that hole in the firing pin shaft and see if it ROTATES counter-clockwise. It might take a pretty substantial amount of force, and you might need to hold the rear of the firing pin assembly in a vice. (You have a reference measurement of the length already, in case it breaks free and rotates more than you intended.)
See if you can unthread that firing pin out of the housing. Once it starts moving, go 1/16 turn, re-measure. You only want to GAIN about .002" on the length. Thread/unthread as necessary to gain that length.
But a warning - I've read some articles this morning that say that the ATR firing pins are prone to BREAKAGE, but I couldn't determine where (probably the thin part, we aren't touching). So mentally prepare yourself for what might happen!
Now, this is where things get "iffy."
When you reassemble the bolt, it is POSSIBLE that there is a cross-pin that will LIMIT the forward travel of the firing pin. If the firing pin doesn't protrude from the bolt face any further than it did before, or you can't reassemble it, you might need to locate the blocking piece. Then turn the surface of the firing pin assembly down .001 or .002 to allow the firing pin to "reach forward" a hair more.
Let's see where you are following the adjustment, before we talk about removing metal though.
After you've managed to get the firing pin to extrude a little farther from the bolt surface, we'd want to make reference marks, fully remove the firing pin, and use some low or medium strength loc-tite on the threads (a little goes a long way), to prevent that firing pin shaft from rotating or setting itself back again in the future.
