Beginner 30-30 question.

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ackreb24

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I know this has been answered before but i dont really under stand it.

I have a marlin 336 and want to start reloading. I only am going to use brass that i have shot from this rifle. I dont care about speed or anything like that. I was looking at the lee loading equipment but it says not to use on lever actions, semi autos, etc. Yall talk about this crimping and all this other reloading language:confused:. Sorry for asking this question again, but i really need someone to point me in the right direction.
 
Rifles with tube magazines have to have the bullets crimped in the case mouth to prevent bullet set-back in the case due to recoil.

You also have to full-length resize to return the cases to factory dimensions so they will chamber easily.
Lever-actions have no way of forcing a cartridge to chamber, or extract, like a bolt action.

The Lee Loader die set you pound with a hammer only neck-sizes, and doesn't do a uniform crimp.

So, you need a real reloading press, and a real set of Full-length reloading dies to do it right.

See this link for some good understanding of the equipment you will need.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=649184

rc
 
A crimp is generally required in ammunition to be fed from a tubular magazine. The recoil knocks bullet to base in the magazine, thus the need for RN or FN bullets that won't set off the primers. In any event, without a suitable crimp you run the very real risk of bullets being pushed down into the case. This creates possibly dangerous pressure spikes, probable feed issues and greatly diminished accuracy.

I take it you have collet dies? Odd for 30-30. If your bullet seating die does not allow for a roll crimp, you may ring Lee in the morning and order a factory crimp die (that's it's name) which is a rather handy tool.

With the greatest of respect, I urge you to get a good ABCs of reloading book. There are many, many easy mistakes to make that can be very harmful. Further knowledge of the subject will also improve the ease with which you draw information from this and other sources.
 
And just to assure you, it will happen. I haven't personally done it, but my reloads in a 357 levergun have had it happen to a friend while he was learning. Didn't understand why I said to load 2 at most. 1 in 1 under. He loaded 6 and the last 2 stove piped. Since your new to 30-30 also pay attention to the bullets being used. Long conical bullets built for 30-06, 308 etc will work if seated really deep, but they go nose to primer and can have a shell go off in the mag tube. Luckily most of the bullets where you would see this are so long they are ver hard to load and will not cycle through a lever gun. Most-not all.
 
With bottleneck cartridges I like to use very bulky powders as well. It is hard to see a charge in the case so it would be easy to doublecharge and hard to detect. Bulky powders that overflow in a doublecharge eliminate the possibility. Sadly, with my particular rifle I have not yet found such a powder that the gun likes.
 
My Grandad loaded 30-30 for years with a Lee Loader kit. Watching him was the beginning of my reloading. We never had a failure of any kind, but there are a lot of better ways to do it. Flipping that live round over to crimp it with that kit is pretty scary, not to mention dangerous. When the time came to get my own tools I bought a used RC single stage press, a 3 die set, a Lee factory crimp die, scale, Hogdon's data manual 24 and a set of calipers. I used Granddad's recipe of H4895 & Sierra 150 grain flat nose bullets. Lube your cases and inside your necks. Be safe & have fun!
 
Hello ackreb24,... I see this is your 1st posting WELCOME!
There are a lot of helpful & experienced people here ready & willing to help you get started reloading. so, please ask any and all question you may have.

Now to address your question,
What Lee loading equipment were you looking at where it said "not to use on lever actions, semi autos, etc" ?
Was this while trying to figure out which Lee reloading die set to buy? ( the type used in a press) or, was it in reference to one of the little Lee Loader kits.?
This will help us more accurately answer your question.
 
Last edited:
Get a "for real" reloading press and dies. The Marlin Lever Actions are great rifles capable of superb accuracy with careful reloads. Full length sizing and crimping a must however.
 
since you are brand new let give you a quick run of the basics: when new brass is fired in your gun the brass expands to fit the chamber. The first step in reloading a round is to resize that case back to original dimensions. Bolt action rifles can get away with just resizing part of the case (the neck) because you can manually shove the oversized case in the chamber and force it closed. That doesn't work with other guns that are more picky with feeding. (levers, semi's, pumps, etc)

lee makes a lot of different reload gizmos and most are great. the super cheap Lee Loader is something you bang on with a hammer. It works, but like RC's post said, it's for bolt action rifles because it only resized part of the case.

You will need something that full sizes a case. So you need a press, and the 30/30 reloading dies. I'm a lee fan, and I'm chronically undercapitalized, so I need things that work well on a tight budget. For 30/30 I recommend a lee single stage press. If you are ever going to get into reloading any pistol rounds as well I would get a lee turret press instead. Within those 2 catagories lee makes a cheap and a fancy "classic cast" version. The cheap works, but the classic cast is much nicer. this page sums up what I just said and has all the presses for sale. https://fsreloading.com/reloading-equipment/presses/

my recommendations: turret https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-classic-turret-press-90064.html
single stage http://www.midwayusa.com/product/17...-lock-single-stage-press?cm_vc=ProductFinding
 
Welcome to THR, ackreb24.

You really need to acquire some literature that will explain many of the terms and procedures for safe reloading. I would suggest the latest Lyman manual that has both loading tips and load data that would be helpful for you.
Be safe and be happy in your new hobby.


NCsmitty
 
I reload 30-30 using a Lee Loader and have for some time. After 4 or 5 reloadings I full length size using a 32 Winchester Special sizing die. This works fine for me and my 94 Winchester.

Way back when I started reloading I also used a Lee Loader to load 32 Win. Spec. cartridges. Never had a problem with feeding or extraction even tho they were only neck sized. Later I got a press and dies. This was way back in the 60's???? when Bair was still in business.

So yes, one can reload using a Lee Loader for cartridges used in a lever action. But when the cartridge gets hard to chamber it's time to full length resize.
 
work, yes, but I would not advise the hand loader. Maybe I just have flabby puny arms, but it's enough work sizing bullets that I really wouldn't' want to try and resize a rifle case with one.

if cost is that big a concern I guess you could use one of these http://www.midwayusa.com/product/807734/lee-reloader-single-stage-press but here's the kicker, you still have to prime. with something like that cheap press you still need a hand priming gizmo AND the shell holder kit that goes with it. that's another 35 bucks.

whereas this press http://www.midwayusa.com/product/17...-lock-single-stage-press?cm_vc=ProductFinding has priming capability built in.

And reloading might not be for you. Here's the deal with reloading: you don't save a dime. in fact, you probably spend more. But you shoot a lot more. If you get:
challenger press - $67
dies - 31
powder measure - 25
loading block - 7
you're at 130 bucks in equipment. lets say you reload 1000 rounds total: you're at 13 cents a round. now components, assuming you can find them and fairly normal (not panic) pricing

powder - $25 (enough for about 275 rounds) lets say $100 for 1000 rounds.
primers - $30 for 1000
bullet - 20 cents each or $200 for 1000.

= $255/1000 >> $.25/round. +$.13 for your equipment = $.38/round.

now there are a couple things I left out (case trimming, lube, ammo boxes) so lets call it a nice round 40 cents per round. And lets say each round takes 2 minutes of your life to make. (it can be a lot faster, but you're new) vs a dollar a round to buy it. (maybe less depending on time and selection) and the disparity is less if you don't reload those thousand rounds. If you only make 91 rounds you haven't saved a penny.
 
Don't forget to watch videos on U TUBE
Type in search box""how to reload 30-30 win. cartridge on U TUBE"""
they have some great videos on reloading
have fun
 
greyling22 said:
work, yes, but I would not advise the hand loader. Maybe I just have flabby puny arms, but it's enough work sizing bullets that I really wouldn't' want to try and resize a rifle case with one.

if cost is that big a concern I guess you could use one of these http://www.midwayusa.com/product/807734/lee-reloader-single-stage-press but here's the kicker, you still have to prime. with something like that cheap press you still need a hand priming gizmo AND the shell holder kit that goes with it. that's another 35 bucks.

whereas this press http://www.midwayusa.com/product/17...-lock-single-stage-press?cm_vc=ProductFinding has priming capability built in.

And reloading might not be for you. Here's the deal with reloading: you don't save a dime. in fact, you probably spend more. But you shoot a lot more. If you get:
challenger press - $67
dies - 31
powder measure - 25
loading block - 7
you're at 130 bucks in equipment. lets say you reload 1000 rounds total: you're at 13 cents a round. now components, assuming you can find them and fairly normal (not panic) pricing

powder - $25 (enough for about 275 rounds) lets say $100 for 1000 rounds.
primers - $30 for 1000
bullet - 20 cents each or $200 for 1000.

= $255/1000 >> $.25/round. +$.13 for your equipment = $.38/round.

now there are a couple things I left out (case trimming, lube, ammo boxes) so lets call it a nice round 40 cents per round. And lets say each round takes 2 minutes of your life to make. (it can be a lot faster, but you're new) vs a dollar a round to buy it. (maybe less depending on time and selection) and the disparity is less if you don't reload those thousand rounds. If you only make 91 rounds you haven't saved a penny.
Click to expand...
You will also need a scale - balance beam or electronic to check the weight of charges being thrown by your powder measure ( or you can use Lee dippers instead) but still need a scale to check your powder charges. You can get loading data from powder company web sites, but a decent manual would also be a good investment - you can buy used, but try to get one that is relatively recent.
 
I agree you should get a press because the handloader is hard to use. If price is a consideration Lee has a very inexpensive single stage press for only $28.49.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/807734/lee-reloader-single-stage-press?cm_vc=ProductFinding
It it the best press available, of course not but it can be bench mounted and will do the job at a low price.

Of course a cast iron "O" frame press is better but it will cost more. I can tell you this will be just over $100 and very well spent money. The Lee Classic Cast press is extremely solid and reliable.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/317831/lee-classic-cast-single-stage-press?cm_vc=ProductFinding

You will be much more productive with either compared to a hand press but the O-frame press is the better choice IMO.
 
I would highly recommend a starters package with the Lee Classic Turret press.
I know several people who have recently bought these from Titan Reloading for less than $200 complete.
They come with the Classic Cast Turret press, scale, primer feeder etc, etc. Most all the basics you need to get started. ( dies are extra.)
This is a very versatile, quality press that will last a lifetime.
 
RCBS had an X_die in 30-30 works Awesome

its a 37912. RCBS X_FL dieset, one of the best options,
works charmingly, but just remember if you ever put lead cast through
/into the cases, be sure to go into it and clean the leading/wax you put
into it when you crimped on the up stroke; before you try and go back
to installing any, copper jacketed bullets.:eek:
 
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