Best Barrel Care (FrogLube Included?)

[.Scarecrow.]

On a new AR build I'm doing, I plan on using FrogLube. I know that if you use it, you kind of commit to using it. I don't have a problem with this, but I had a question. After poking around a little bit, I've seen praise for things like Hoppe's #9 when it comes to bore cleaning. I understand this is a cleaner, not a lubricant. I'm not sure if cleaner means copper remover, or it that is something different. But anyway, if I have a gun that is "Dedicated" to FrogLube, can I still use a bore cleaner and then coat the barrel with FrogLube? Or can I only use 100% CLP for it to work effectively.

Thanks guys.

 

[taliv]

why are you lubricating your barrel?

you don't have to dedicate parts like the BCG to being lubed with frog lube permanently. i tried it for 6 months or so, didn't like it, cleaned it off my bcg and went back to slip2k EWL. didn't cause me any problems.

use whatever bore cleaner you want. don't coat the barrel with anything.

 

[notaglockfanboy]

why are you lubricating your barrel?

you don't have to dedicate parts like the BCG to being lubed with frog lube permanently. i tried it for 6 months or so, didn't like it, cleaned it off my bcg and went back to slip2k EWL. didn't cause me any problems.

use whatever bore cleaner you want. don't coat the barrel with anything

This right here. No reason to dedicate using a lube, and my question is where did you get that info.

 

[.Scarecrow.]

In terms of being kinda dedicated to it? I just heard that it bonds to the metal when heated, to form a sort of Dry Lube. And thanks for the info on the barrel.

 

[Jackal]

I know a lot of folks that have only used motor oil as a lubricant, all their guns worked fine. The advertising budget of companies nowadays really convinces people that they need to buy the newest, latest snake oil in order to make their guns run. Use whatever lubricant you have, almost any will work.

 

[taliv]

it doesn't "bond" to the metal. "bonding" implies a chemical reaction, which is not the case here. the heat just helps it soak into the pores in the metal a bit. and yes, i would (and did) thoroughly clean the part to get the froglube off before i switched to a different lube. otherwise you really don't know how the two will react to each other.

 

[moxie]

Hoppe's #9 is a great bore cleaner. Hoppe's also makes a Benchrest 9 Copper Bore Cleaner that is good at removing copper fouling.

Hoppe's oil works just fine too but lately I've been using Mobil 1 and it's great. That quart jar is going to last quite a while, I think. Cost about $7 for the quart.

Froglube might be OK but to me it seems a chore and is awfully expensive.

 

[earlthegoat2]

On Frog Lube's website they say : "You should discontinue the use of petrochemical-based cleaners and lubricants since they negate the effects of a FrogLube-treated weapon"

This can mislead some into thinking its an every time procedure and trying it is committing to it. Not so. Just like how synthetic oil manufactures have you believe that once you run synthetic in your engine once then you have to for the rest of eternity.

I am a stubborn and maybe stupid fella and I have 15 years in automotive and heavy equipment lubrication experience. Mix and match here and there is not going to hurt anything anymore than just running whichever lube is the most inferior full time. There is plenty of evidence that synthetics lead to greater longevity in engines but just because you do one or two oil changes with conventional does not mean you are jeopardizing your engine.

I find that people tend to overthink greases and oils. Just pick one and go with it. As long as you are using something it will be OK. Don't buy into the hype or the marketing. Just use something.