Best Gun Oil ?

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Try putting a Q-tip in the oil to oil your gun. You can get as much or as little oil as you want that way.
 
Tip on the Q-Tip

That's good, but I'm paranoid about "the little cotton fibers" that might be left behind. If you are very careful, it's a good idea.
I used to get my hands all oily, until I learned that petroleum distillates can seep through your skin and be toxic to your body.
Now I wear latex gloves and lube away.
 
That's good, but I'm paranoid about "the little cotton fibers" that might be left behind. If you are very careful, it's a good idea.
I used to get my hands all oily, until I learned that petroleum distillates can seep through your skin and be toxic to your body.
Now I wear latex gloves and lube away.

Strange side question, and I'm sorry to hijack your thread, but do you ever find that latex gloves irritate your hands? If so, do you use any specific brand/style/talc/etc?
 
Oil...any oil, will be better than nothing. Automotive grade oils are pretty tough and slickery, but are essentially designed to be pressurized, and constantly resupplied under pressure.
lately I've been using a 50/50 mix of valvoline 10-30, and STP oil treatment.
The 10-30 makes it not so thick, and the STP has zddp which (in my mind) does a better job of lubing slides (Just applying theory from flat tappet cam V8s). I had some leftover from an engine build so... Waste not want not!

Other than that; CLP will always have a place on my shelf.

I've also found the pipe cleaners work great! Better than q-tips! You can bend them to any shape you want, they tend not to shed so many fibers, and if the end gets grungy, just snip it off and you have another section ready to go.
 
50/50 mix of valvoline 10-30, and STP oil treatment
In the early to mid 1970s, I rebuilt cylinder heads for Caterpillar diesel engines. These were exchange heads for a very large caterpillar dealer and would often hang for months or even (in some cases) years before they were sold. I used a 50/50 mixture of 30w oil and STP oil treatment to lube the valve stem because no matter how long the heads went from rebuild until use, the valve had sufficient lube to protect the valves/guides from a dry start. I have used the same mixture on my guns from time to time where I needed a long term lube.
 
This is a question that will have MANY answers.

Pretty much any oil will work for a gun. FrogLube is derived from cocoanut oil and that FireClean is pretty much canola oil.

I've never bought into the fancy schmancy $14 and ounce super wonder lube. Marketing blather.

3 in 1
5w30 motor oil
Rem Oil
Transmission fluid

All will work.
 
I ran into a pocket of Ballistol users this weekend. An LGS in Terre Haute sells it and a lot of people seem to use it. A city policeman says he loves it (in this particular city, the police are gun guys by nature) he told me where he got it. I went to get some. The proprietor swears by it as did the two customers who were in there when I went in to get mine. I've heard about it for years but never tried it.

I really like Eezox. It's sort of the anti-Ballistol in that it's toxic as all get out I guess.

I also have a 50/50 mixture of Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W30 and Mavel's Mystery oil. Wow, is that slick.

There is no best gun oil.
 
I once used CLP for everything: cleaning, lubricating and rust protection. Then my deer rifle groups opened up and I needed to find a copper removing solvent for the bore. Then I started shooting AR's and I regularly squirted lube onto and in my bolt carriers. So I now use Bore Tech Eliminator to clean my bores, Mobil 1 to soak my AR BCG's because it's cheap, and I still use CLP to protect against rust.
 
Well, when I can't find white whale oil (those pesky international laws), I've gotten pretty attached to Mil-Comm. It's a full synthetic oil with PTFE mixed in. I searched for a non-toxic cleaning system that actually worked, and Mil-Comm was the only thing on the market that worked. The MSDS is pretty good, so I don't think casual contact is going to be a problem in the long term. I would still recommend wearing gloves while cleaning because of the heavy metals, but I don't think anything in the Mil-Comm is cause for concern.

The system really does work. The oil itself has a solvent effect, and I've actually seen it lift rust off an old gun. The corrosion protection is also very good. Even though it's nothing like a CLP, especially in terms of health effects, it does some of the things a CLP does in that it lubricates and keeps parts clean at the same time while protecting from rust. The cleaning solution smells similar to something like Windex, though not as strong, and it works very well in conjunction with the oil.
 
This is what i use
IMG_0652_zps5noyxs04.jpg
So it works as a gun oil--have you tested its efficacy as an ointment and laxative, as the bottle suggests? :)

That's a pretty valuable bottle you have there--too valuable to use up on guns IMO. Given that ATF was developed to replace sperm oil I think that's a pretty good argument in favor of using it on guns too.
 
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