Best SD ammo for .38 Snubby
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shoebox1.1
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I carry these 148g Precision one plated wadcutters in my 638. Decent recoil and hit POA. A normal FMJ 158gr is not fun to shoot out of my gun ( altamont hardwoods)
There's not really one perfect answer, and at least where I live, very limited choices in 38 special.
Right now, my 642 has 110 gr std pressure Hornady critical defense.
Prior to that I tried the 90 grain critical defense, coming from federal or Georgia arms wadcutters due to an injured wrist.
Before any of that, I just used 158 gr lrn and felt pretty good. To me they looked like big ol civil war rounds, lol. I would also use winchester 130 grain flat point fmj. I would get cheap remingtom or Winchester 125 grain jhp 38 +p. Only testing was just shooting stuff, informal type testing. Maybe some water jugs if we're being fancy. This was 20+ years ago.
Now I'm told 158 gr lrn is a widow maker and no good. And my +p won't expand in a barrel less than 4 inches.
Informal testing showed me the lead round nose seemed to recoil and ring the ears less without ear pro. They would flatten when they hit hard wood. This might be a good indoor round, not likely to go through a bunch of walls.
The 38 plus p would go right through 2×4s and a bunch of other stuff. It would leave you dazed for a moment from the blast and flash. The fmj was more liken to the round nose stuff, just harder to stop/ catch.
The real answer is, whatever you can get, and get a lot of experience with so you can know where the rounds hit from your gun.
My 642 shoots to sights with non plus p critical defense 110 gr so that's what it is now.
In the woods it gets swapped to 150 gr hardcast wadcutters or 158 grain Keith loads.
Right now, my 642 has 110 gr std pressure Hornady critical defense.
Prior to that I tried the 90 grain critical defense, coming from federal or Georgia arms wadcutters due to an injured wrist.
Before any of that, I just used 158 gr lrn and felt pretty good. To me they looked like big ol civil war rounds, lol. I would also use winchester 130 grain flat point fmj. I would get cheap remingtom or Winchester 125 grain jhp 38 +p. Only testing was just shooting stuff, informal type testing. Maybe some water jugs if we're being fancy. This was 20+ years ago.
Now I'm told 158 gr lrn is a widow maker and no good. And my +p won't expand in a barrel less than 4 inches.
Informal testing showed me the lead round nose seemed to recoil and ring the ears less without ear pro. They would flatten when they hit hard wood. This might be a good indoor round, not likely to go through a bunch of walls.
The 38 plus p would go right through 2×4s and a bunch of other stuff. It would leave you dazed for a moment from the blast and flash. The fmj was more liken to the round nose stuff, just harder to stop/ catch.
The real answer is, whatever you can get, and get a lot of experience with so you can know where the rounds hit from your gun.
My 642 shoots to sights with non plus p critical defense 110 gr so that's what it is now.
In the woods it gets swapped to 150 gr hardcast wadcutters or 158 grain Keith loads.
NeroM
Member
Have shot and carried both in a LCR, not sure which I prefer.
If I was pressed to pick, probably would go with Buffalo Bore as they might be slightly more consistent and accurate.
Oldschool shooter
Member
I have been using Underwood 158 gr wadcutters, not +P, in my 638 Airweight. Recoil is manageable with this round. Not sure if you get enough velocity out of such a short barrel to get reliable expansion out of a hollowpoint, but I will defer to others more knowledgable in using them in a snub nose.
TTv2
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Last year I gave some general, common options for good .38 defense ammo, but this topic is about the BEST and frankly I'm a bit tired of that word being used for firearms, ammo, etc. because it's not so much about the best A+ 100%, it's more a pass/fail and so long as you don't fail, you pass.
By that I mean, whatever works well enough, works and there's not much need to look any further.
However, there's differences between what you're using and a 158gr +P probably isn't a good choice for a 12oz snubby unless that's the only gun you have and you have big animals that could be a threat to you and you need as much penetration as possible.
Personally, I'm not a big .38 guy, I only own one snub .38 and it's mostly relegated for home defense as it's pretty large and heavy. I do have some of the Hornady CD for it, I'm sure they would expand, but as time goes by my thinking is with a snub the right way to go is to not rely on hollow points and opt for solid projectiles and that leads me to three options:
Wadcutters- they're cheap, accurate, pretty low recoil, and have decent penetration and work by crushing tissue.
Polymer/Copper- lightweight, high velocity, lower recoil, and work by tumbling in soft tissue. Not as cheap as wadcutters, but allow for a faster reload.
Multiball- 2 pellets of 000 Buck in each case. Multiple wound tracks means greater blood loss and more tissue damage. Not sold commercially anymore, but can be reloaded.
When I want a snub my default is the .32, I believe it to be a superior choice for a snub.
By that I mean, whatever works well enough, works and there's not much need to look any further.
However, there's differences between what you're using and a 158gr +P probably isn't a good choice for a 12oz snubby unless that's the only gun you have and you have big animals that could be a threat to you and you need as much penetration as possible.
Personally, I'm not a big .38 guy, I only own one snub .38 and it's mostly relegated for home defense as it's pretty large and heavy. I do have some of the Hornady CD for it, I'm sure they would expand, but as time goes by my thinking is with a snub the right way to go is to not rely on hollow points and opt for solid projectiles and that leads me to three options:
Wadcutters- they're cheap, accurate, pretty low recoil, and have decent penetration and work by crushing tissue.
Polymer/Copper- lightweight, high velocity, lower recoil, and work by tumbling in soft tissue. Not as cheap as wadcutters, but allow for a faster reload.
Multiball- 2 pellets of 000 Buck in each case. Multiple wound tracks means greater blood loss and more tissue damage. Not sold commercially anymore, but can be reloaded.
When I want a snub my default is the .32, I believe it to be a superior choice for a snub.
dickydalton
Member
I'm pretty impressed with Federal Punch 38+P 120 grain. This is just one review of many. It opens up even through denim and it shoots well out of my Kimbers and 101.
youtu.be
.38 Special (Federal Punch 120gr +P VS Buffalo Bore 158gr +P) Ballistic Gel Test
Like & Subscribe😁 Thank you for watching!! Contact: [email protected] for any questions or ammo donations for testing. Thanks again!!Taurus Ultra Lig...
youtu.be
Might have to try a couple boxes of those Federal 120 grain +p if the opportunity presents itself. I have enough Speer 135’s around to not need anything for awhile. The wadcutters probably would be effective, but they also aren’t a lot cheaper than defensive ammo anymore unless you’re hand loading them. But if it’s what you have, use it until you figure out something better.
Miami_JBT
Member
I'm a a fan of the old Treasury load, a 110gr SJHP +p+ load.
My daughter carries Hornady Critical Defense 110 grain +P’s in a S&W snub. Back in the 70’s, guys who carried 38 snubs for back up guns, used hollow based wadcutters loaded backwards, so the hollow base faced forward. Of course, everyone says today to not use hand loads for defense, for reliability reasons.
P5 Guy
Member
Loaded with 5 158grain SWC to +P with Unique.
Okay question then, if it doesn't derail the thread.
Would you go with lead semi wadcutters or plated semi wadcutters for animal defense (or does it make a difference?)
Obviously hard cast Keith style swc or regular WC are superior, but I am thinking for folks that don't want to pay or order specialty ammo, what is the best common use ammo for defense?
For 2 legged probably critical defense, as it reliably opens from a snub and seems to be everywhere.
For hiking/ animal defense, probably some manner of flat point round, fmj. I see 130-158 gr rounds on the shelves. I grabbed some plated ans some regular lead 158 gr semi wadcutters. My thinking is the lead might be softer without the plating and flatten/ tumble more. Good for people, bad for bigger animals.
On YouTube gun sam that revolver guy states a flat point semi wadcutter was harder to stop than 9mm ball. Crazy to me. The 38 was only traveling like 770 fps and I think it was 158 grains, but it out penetrated the 9mm. Something to think about.
Would you go with lead semi wadcutters or plated semi wadcutters for animal defense (or does it make a difference?)
Obviously hard cast Keith style swc or regular WC are superior, but I am thinking for folks that don't want to pay or order specialty ammo, what is the best common use ammo for defense?
For 2 legged probably critical defense, as it reliably opens from a snub and seems to be everywhere.
For hiking/ animal defense, probably some manner of flat point round, fmj. I see 130-158 gr rounds on the shelves. I grabbed some plated ans some regular lead 158 gr semi wadcutters. My thinking is the lead might be softer without the plating and flatten/ tumble more. Good for people, bad for bigger animals.
On YouTube gun sam that revolver guy states a flat point semi wadcutter was harder to stop than 9mm ball. Crazy to me. The 38 was only traveling like 770 fps and I think it was 158 grains, but it out penetrated the 9mm. Something to think about.
OS/N
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For shooting I load lee 158 rfp cast over 3.5 grains of w231. Does about 4" groups at POA at 25 yards in an older 36 with 38spl length cyl. A newer 637 with long mag length cyl and pooh forcing cone does about like it does with anything - shotgun pattern but doesn't sting your hand. 4 grns of 231 is a good load but dosn't print as well in my snubs.
For carry I use an old box of win 125 grn jacketed HPs +Ps. Box is about 15 yrs old and still has about 35 rnds in it.
Sometimes I just leave the cast reloads in it for carry - I know where they will land.
The old HBWC reloads I used to get from the LGS 30+ years ago were the best shooters at around 3" at 25 yards. Think they were loaded to std pressures and used to lead the cyl and forcing cone like a son of a gun but always shot well. Barrel was always clean though.
If I ever come across a good ild style HBWC mold I'll add it to the mould rack and try to work up some of the old style loads. I want to say they most likely had bullseye powder in them back in the day.
158 cast SWCHP were the LE carry load at the time but never shot well in my M36 snub. The revolver for LE carry was at its end of glory at about that time - finding brass or cheap reloads was not an issue. LGS used to keep an open 55 gal barrel full of 38spl used brass out all the time.
For carry I use an old box of win 125 grn jacketed HPs +Ps. Box is about 15 yrs old and still has about 35 rnds in it.
Sometimes I just leave the cast reloads in it for carry - I know where they will land.
The old HBWC reloads I used to get from the LGS 30+ years ago were the best shooters at around 3" at 25 yards. Think they were loaded to std pressures and used to lead the cyl and forcing cone like a son of a gun but always shot well. Barrel was always clean though.
If I ever come across a good ild style HBWC mold I'll add it to the mould rack and try to work up some of the old style loads. I want to say they most likely had bullseye powder in them back in the day.
158 cast SWCHP were the LE carry load at the time but never shot well in my M36 snub. The revolver for LE carry was at its end of glory at about that time - finding brass or cheap reloads was not an issue. LGS used to keep an open 55 gal barrel full of 38spl used brass out all the time.
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P5 Guy
Member
No need for the hollow point, from a 2inch barrel the velocity will be around 700FPS or less.
lincen
Member
Federal Punch in the three calibers I have tried, 22LR, 380acp, and 38 Special, have met and exceeded my expectations. I mainly carry pocket guns in 380 and 38.I'm pretty impressed with Federal Punch 38+P 120 grain. This is just one review of many. It opens up even through denim and it shoots well out of my Kimbers and 101.
.38 Special (Federal Punch 120gr +P VS Buffalo Bore 158gr +P) Ballistic Gel Test
Like & Subscribe😁 Thank you for watching!! Contact: [email protected] for any questions or ammo donations for testing. Thanks again!!Taurus Ultra Lig...
In the past I have made assumptions about wadcutters. I think they would be effective, but I never tried reloading them at speed from a strip or speedloader. I just assumed they would hang up. I had a few minutes today, and I have several types of .38 Special ammo on hand. I tried wadcutters in a speedloader, but predictably they just hung up. Next I compared them in speed strips. I loaded from fully loaded Bianchi strips. I have an easier time handling fully loaded strips, and I figure one extra round can’t hurt. I know some people train to only reload four rounds in a J frame, so you might cut a few seconds off that way too. I’m also not well practiced at the moment, so anyone might do better.
My test was start with the revolver in my right hand, and start the clock with my left. Simulate firing the last round, then “eject” the empty casings. Pull The strip from my right pocket and reload two-two-one. Drop the strip, close the cylinder and stop the clock. My results:
- 158 grain JHP’s: 13.01 seconds
- 148 grain HBWC’s: 12.4 seconds
- 158 grain FMJ’s: 12.71 seconds
At least in theory, it’s possible that you could quickly reload WC’s if you practiced at it. The WC’s themselves don’t seem to hang up going into the chambers. I’ll try them in live fire eventually to see how they do. Maybe those who use WC’s shouldn’t give up on a reload.
My test was start with the revolver in my right hand, and start the clock with my left. Simulate firing the last round, then “eject” the empty casings. Pull The strip from my right pocket and reload two-two-one. Drop the strip, close the cylinder and stop the clock. My results:
- 158 grain JHP’s: 13.01 seconds
- 148 grain HBWC’s: 12.4 seconds
- 158 grain FMJ’s: 12.71 seconds
At least in theory, it’s possible that you could quickly reload WC’s if you practiced at it. The WC’s themselves don’t seem to hang up going into the chambers. I’ll try them in live fire eventually to see how they do. Maybe those who use WC’s shouldn’t give up on a reload.
I have several Airweight J-frame revolvers and I do not care for shooting 38 Special +P ammunition.
So, I stick with standard 38 Special ammunition.
I feel wadcutter bullets would be effective. They are at least 38 caliber when entering the target and I doubt designer bullets would expand anyway when shot from a snub barrel gun.
But, reloads with wadcutters can be difficult as the shape of the bullet does not aide in helping the cartridge enter the chamber.
A semi-wadcutter would help with easier/faster reloads than with wadcutters.
There is some discussion on loading hollow base wadcutters up side down. There does not seem a consensus it is really way to go.
Remember, a hit with ammunition you can shoot trumps a miss with anything else.
So, I stick with standard 38 Special ammunition.
I feel wadcutter bullets would be effective. They are at least 38 caliber when entering the target and I doubt designer bullets would expand anyway when shot from a snub barrel gun.
But, reloads with wadcutters can be difficult as the shape of the bullet does not aide in helping the cartridge enter the chamber.
A semi-wadcutter would help with easier/faster reloads than with wadcutters.
There is some discussion on loading hollow base wadcutters up side down. There does not seem a consensus it is really way to go.
Remember, a hit with ammunition you can shoot trumps a miss with anything else.
Since the NYPD reported how well the 135gr. Gold Dot 38+P stopped bad guys, I stocked up. They said they worked good “on the street “. Not water not jello. Since know one can find them, back in the day, Corbon used to make some hot 38’s . According to Evan Marshal they worked good. 
buck460XVR
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I still have a good supply of the old Remington 125gr SJHPs that I reload to the cusp of +p. They are quite accurate and not bad to shoot outta my Model 637.
dickydalton
Member
The old Remington Core Loct hollow points in .357 and .430 are still the best bullets ever made. Out of the 44 mag, I've had Black Talons explode in pieces and the Core Loct does a beautiful mushroom and penetrates deeper. The same style bullet in 38+P and 357 mag does the same.
luzyfuerza
Member
I see a lot of opinions in this thread, but not much data.
A couple of months ago, I tested ten different .38 special loads (including seven loads that could be useful for self-defense) through my S&W 442, my LCR, and my Taurus 856. I measured group sizes and POI vs POA shooting at ten yards with hands supported. And, I shot most of the defensive rounds into water jugs and measured the bullet expansion. (Lucky Gunner has expansion data in clear gel for the other defensive loads)
Here's my data, for anyone who is interested in real-world facts, based on shooting guns on the range.
I did form a couple of opinions based on this data. They can be found there, too.
A couple of months ago, I tested ten different .38 special loads (including seven loads that could be useful for self-defense) through my S&W 442, my LCR, and my Taurus 856. I measured group sizes and POI vs POA shooting at ten yards with hands supported. And, I shot most of the defensive rounds into water jugs and measured the bullet expansion. (Lucky Gunner has expansion data in clear gel for the other defensive loads)
Here's my data, for anyone who is interested in real-world facts, based on shooting guns on the range.
SD Ammo Tests Through 442, LCR, and 856
I am not in the business of creating internet content. I don't own ballistic jell-o, or even a video camera. I'm just a guy who has his own range and some free time, and who sometimes carries a .38 special snubbie as a BUG. I was curious about how various types of .38 special self defense...
www.thehighroad.org
I did form a couple of opinions based on this data. They can be found there, too.
