Best way to anneal?

[Demi-human]

Open question.

What is the duty cycle of an Amp machine?

 

[markr6754]

I bought one, too. Works great ! Haven't used the case prep feature, but it's there if I need it.
Have you put in for your aluminum wheels yet ?

The case prep is really nice. I also received the Case Prep Tool Kit as a gift due to delayed shipping over the Christmas rush. Let me tell you...they are sharp. No pressure and no duration is required. I quick touch for Chamfer and Deburr and you're done. I used my standard pressure and time from my other prep tools...and quickly produced razer sharp case mouths. Now it's just zip, zip and done. As I wet tumbled deprimed brass I don't use the pocket cleaner.

I haven't ordered the aluminum wheels yet, as I'm content to wait for both top and bottom to be available. Desmond sent me a new set of polymer wheels after I melted my top wheel, and I'm sad to say that I was the catalyst for his switch to aluminum. Those 300 BLK cases are really short, and lining them up to the flame, while avoiding heating the wheels is quite tricky. The Aluminum wheels should easily resolve that. Longer cases are no issue at all.

 

[dredd]

Open question.

What is the duty cycle of an Amp machine?

I believe that is dependent on the cartridge you are working with.

Based on the ability to use it with the AMP Mate, I would think it should chug along for quite awhile.

When doing 308 cases, I need a break before the machine does.

They have a ton of information on their website.

 

[Burstfire]

The case prep is really nice. I also received the Case Prep Tool Kit as a gift due to delayed shipping over the Christmas rush. Let me tell you...they are sharp. No pressure and no duration is required. I quick touch for Chamfer and Deburr and you're done. I used my standard pressure and time from my other prep tools...and quickly produced razer sharp case mouths. Now it's just zip, zip and done. As I wet tumbled deprimed brass I don't use the pocket cleaner.

I haven't ordered the aluminum wheels yet, as I'm content to wait for both top and bottom to be available. Desmond sent me a new set of polymer wheels after I melted my top wheel, and I'm sad to say that I was the catalyst for his switch to aluminum. Those 300 BLK cases are really short, and lining them up to the flame, while avoiding heating the wheels is quite tricky. The Aluminum wheels should easily resolve that. Longer cases are no issue at all.

I went to sleep having nightmares of the melted wheel.

 

[BBarn]

The best way to anneal is with a time/temperature profile that recrystallizes the brass with minimal increase in grain size. The time/temperature profile needed to achieve that is verified by is microscopic analysis.

There are temperature graphs showing the effect of temperature on brass hardness and grain structure. However, the graphs typically show the result of exposing brass to an elevated temperature for several minutes as opposed to a few seconds. I'm not aware of any studies correlating minutes long exposures at elevated temperature to brief exposure at elevated temperatures.

Templaq is often used by reloaders, but Templaq has no defined time element or over temperature indication. So, while Templaq offers a reference point to a particular temperature, it does not show how long that temperature existed, nor how long the brass was at (or above) that temperature.

I'm not saying the simplified annealing done by reloaders (including myself) has no benefits. I anneal with a propane torch to what seems to be a low level, never close to glowing, and only for a few seconds on the neck. It softens the neck/shoulder enough that it resizes a bit easier, and I seem to get fewer neck splits.

 

[JFrank]

Just my opinion that split necks are more often due to thinning brass by dies with expander balls causing a pie dough effect, bushing dies without the EB don’t ( seem to) thin the brass.

Again just my opinion.