Best weapon for bike riding.

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I actually have quite a few years experience dealing with attack/guard dogs and this sounds like a crazy idea but it really works but you have to get close to the dog. Under most circs' and firm, loud and aggressive tone of voice does the trick, even if it just just sounds like a snarl it stops most dogs, no different to what dogs do to each other, but if they do get up to you grab their bottom jaws and fold their lip over their bottom teeth, when they bite down on your thumb the bottom teeth cut into their lip and I've yet to meet a dog that would continue to bite down after this.

It's a technique that takes practise and being around large and powerful rotts and Doberman's from a young age I learned some things.

The only dog thats ever gone for me was a Rott and my technique worked great.
I was in the waiting area of car spares shop when the owners Guard Dog snuck in and start going for everyone in the waiting area. There was about 12 of us in there, I slowly walked up to it whilst it was snarling and managed to grab hold of it's bottom jaw with both hands and folded over it's lower lips on both sides, It tried to bite down once, then gave over to just snarled and growled like a monster.
The whole time this was going on the folks in the shop had backed themselves further and further into the corner and the dog was getting louder and louder. In the end I just lead it outside by it's jaw, back into it's pen and closed the door. Once a dog has been dominated it will rarely try again.

This is a specialised technique and not recommended to those lacking self confidence (dogs can sence that!!)
Or on dogs that are foaming at the mouth:)
 
How about considering ways in which the bike itself could be used after you dismount?
 
Check out LE supply catalogs...I cant remember the brand but there is a company that sells a collapsable baton (impact weapon) specifically for bike patrol...lite...collapsable....quik to deploy.
 
Striking weapons

Gentlemen--There are several of you who are advocating using some sort of striking weapon on an attacking dog. Those of you who swing a weapon while riding run a severe risk of falling off your bikes! Not to mention the extra weight you have to carry.

And if you stop and use your bike as a shield, or hit the dog with it, you may damage the bike. Then you can't ride away from the threat, and are stuck there explaining yourself to the owner, who will no doubt take his dog's side in the debate.

I live and ride in a rural to semi-rural area. Dogs are a normal part of the scene. I've had to deal with quite a number, over the years.

The ones who propose to talk in a dominating voice to dogs know what they're about. I'm a biologist and have been a student of canine behavior for years. Dogs are all about posing and pack position--rarely does the alpha animal in a pack actually have to attack one of the others. So when you speak to a dog as if it were doing wrong--especially while grinning from ear to ear, that is, showing all your teeth, you are sending the message that you are the alpha animal and the dog is overstepping its place. This usually works with all except dogs trained to attack. But well-trained dogs usually aren't out in the street chasing bicyclists.

Boom-stick's idea works--it's used by trainers to get retrievers to drop what they fetched, too--but it takes some experience, and requires that you stop and get up close and personal with the dog in question. This gives the dog's owner time to come out and argue with you. I can't reccimmend it except for experienced dog handlers.

Please quit theorizing about batons and weighted bats. Those have their place--in a back alley against muggers! Get a little can of Halt! practice asking "AAAaaaRRRR! What are you DOING????" in a loud, low voice while grinning like Teddy Roosevelt, and get out there and start putting on the miles.
 
I have to agree with the dominant posture, assertive voice and teeth showing.
I walk my dogs several times a day, here in midtown there are a few wild dogs and several tame but undisciplined dogs. My dogs are 25lbs and 10lbs. The smaller dog always attracts unwanted attention as she is a bit of a baby and screams when the other dogs approach. If I am with my wife I give her both leashes and put myself physically between my 'pack' and the threat, if alone I pick up the smaller dog and pull the other to heel. I vocalise, show teeth and lift one arm. This usually neutralises the threat instantly, occasionally we get a 'follower'. Then I will stand my ground and vocalise at him until he loses interest. Once or twice I have had to actually throw stones, I have never met a dog I could hit with the second stone, the first one to the ribs makes them leave the area very promptly. I have never been bit by a dog, I have on occasion seperated fighting dogs. I guess I project Alpha particularly well to them, I grew up owning dogs and have trained several. It is said that they sense fear and thus the absence of fear, once you have stood your ground with one you should gain this quality and retain it.
That said, I wouldn't worry too much about damaging your bike by putting it between you and the dog, most bikes are a lot tougher than dogs and bikes are certainly cheaper than medical bills. Plus, if the bike can support your weight it can take a few hits from a dog that weighs half that. You might bend a few spokes or misalign the bars in a fight but that is fixable on the roadside with the multitool you should be carrying.
 
In 2000...I chased an Assault suspect into his backyard...he went into the house through a sliding door and released his pit-bull with the command to attack...Instead of shooting the dog (It was the dogs yard and as far as he was concerned I was the intruder...also a tight residential niegborhood)...I got my "baton" out instead of my oc/cs (I was in a hurry) and the pit-bull only needed one "tap" to convince it that I was not a meal.

The suspect...the dog...and most importantly ME...were not injured.

This is not "Thoery"...it really happened...of course I was not on a bike at the time....but then again...I do look a little like Teddy...? (didnt he say somthing about speaking softly and carrying somthing?)
 
I grew up around a psycho Beagle (he was a hell of a biter and the only dog I have ever truely feared and disliked) and two Rotts. Big dogs don't intimidate me at all. They like to posture alot. A loud clear menancing voice works well. Also advancing slowly at them while doing an impression of the devil himself will work. (edit to add: do not advance into their yard. This is their territory and you are now the tresspasser. This is a completely different can of worms. Dogs know where their home turf is and are easier to drive away if they are unsure who "owns" the ground where they are standing.)

From playing and rough housing with my folks' dogs I've learned that if you go to the ground with them you are probably screwed. In the unlikely scenario that this happens you must control the head, ( insert no **** Sherlock here), and fight harder than you have ever fought in your life. I would rather go to the ground with a three strike felon trained in street thuggery than a 120lbs. Rott. and I top out at 260. If they are on their back place your hands directly under the lower jaws and hold on tight. You can't leave this position so you had better be screaming for help. Also much like crocs and gators dogs have incredible jaw pressure when it comes to closing their mouths, but very little ability to open them if held shut.

What really bothers me are peoples little rat dogs. They could squirrel up my leg you know. Good thing they resemble a football. Perfect for punting.
 
Doesn't apply.

Combatpreacher--you were entering the dog's territory, as opposed to riding by on the street. And see my comment about attack-trained dogs above. And I take it that you were afoot when swinging that baton.

Different situation entirely.

BTW, When T. Roosevelt said "Speak softly, but carry a big stick," he was talking about human-human relations, not human-dog relations. Had the subject been bicyclist-dog relations, he'd have said to growl loudly, and carry a little can of Halt!
 
The important thing that bike riders have learned is to get off the bike with it between them and the dog. Bike acts like a fence and the rider can use the "bad dog voice" to subdue the dog. Failing that it allows the rider to then whack or spray the dog as needed while using the bike as a shield.
Click to expand...

I've used this and it works well. I don't know if it is a good idea in general, but one time I put the bike in between myself and the dog and then squirted him in the face with some gatorade. He ran away. I have also talked to riders who don't just use the bike as a shield, but put it between them and the dog and then pick up the bike and run at the dog with it. Again, I don't know enough about dogs to know how often this works, but they seem to have had good luck with going on the offensive.
 
The only major problems I've had have come when I take my GSD for a walk/run with the bike. The neighborhood dogs think he's running away from them and give chase, only to find out he wasn't running from them at all. Thankfully so far the dogs have all submitted and run off once they realized their mistake. The real danger comes if you have a large intact male who won't submit. Then you can see your vet bills go up and up. There's nothing worse than trying to break up a dog fight by yourself. A good stick is invaluable.
 
Ps. to my comments above.

I forgot to mention that if it's a police dog, run TOWARDS it.
It freaks them out as their training is based on chasing people running away from them:)

(LEO's are gonna love me for mentioning that:) )
 
Boom-stick said:
Ps. to my comments above.

I forgot to mention that if it's a police dog, run TOWARDS it.
It freaks them out as their training is based on chasing people running away from them

(LEO's are gonna love me for mentioning that )
Click to expand...




Just wondering, but what are you supposed to do after you get to the dog? I'm not trying to be a smart [aleck] here, it just occures to me that deliberately placing oneself in proximity to a now "freaked out" attack dog without definite plans for further action seems somewhat foolhardy.
 
What about a airsoft pistol? How about a CO2 pistol? Would that work on a dog? Would it require a CCL in NC?
 
That would be a bad idea. It would not likely stop a dog that thought it was in the right. It would hurt, though, and it might do permanent damage. Much better off with pepper spray.
Some dogs would cringe away from the object in your hand, but most would not realize what you intended to do, especially in attack mode.
 
I forgot to mention that if it's a police dog, run TOWARDS it.
It freaks them out as their training is based on chasing people running away from them
Click to expand...

That may be true in the UK, but in the U.S. the K9 training incorportates an attacking as well as fleeing criminal. You try that here and you'll loose a chunk of hide. And what would a police dog be doing charging at you. If you stand perfectly still and don't make any move the K9 will stand and detain you without injury as long as you don't attempt to flee or fight back.:banghead:
 
Halt! is good stuff

V4Vendetta--I'm getting to sound like a Halt! salesman, so for the record I have no connection to the maker of same, and in no way benefit from sales of Halt!

Now as to getting a windy spray of Halt: It comes out as a single strong stream, not a spray. I have no way of measuring it, but the stream looks to be considerably less than 1/8" in diameter. And it holds together as a stream, out to the end where it breaks into droplets. From a new can the spray stream is about 8 feet long. In my testing, for personal use, when the spray stream gets down to about 4-5 feet in length, I discard that can. I use up a can of the stuff every 3-5 years, just testing it. I consider the cost money well spent.

Anyhow, in any kind of wind in which bicycling is practicable, and in which a dog would consider coming out from under his porch to attack, the Halt! stream will go from you to him reliably.
 
My father is a BIG rider. 40-100miles a day either on trainer or road. He and his buddies were having problems with several dogs around the area. So I made a holder for pepper spray that uses velcro to hold it on the sissy bar.
It's a two piece deal. The frame straps then a layer of velcro then a harness that straps around the pepper spray. So the can is stuck to the frame with velcro but you can reach down and rip off the can and deploy it if you need to. Works like a charm. I ended up making about a dozen of 'em for his buddies who ride. I made these to fit the mark IV spray that our police use. Dad says it repels nasty dogs wonderfully.
 
The bike.

Grab it by the top frame/steering neck and close to the seat.

But a sturdy pump as suggested by another poster would work - or a long Maglight flashlight. I also like sjamboks as AndyC suggested.

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Although I would never consider riding a bike without at least a small .38 handy, for dogs I have a few other things. I generally ride with the skinny end of an old fishing rod across my handle bars, held by velcro straps. Sometimes the left (skinny) end has a flag on the end of it. on occasion it has had a small nut on the end of it. This all has to do with claiming the part of the road to which I am entitled at any given moment.

A rod section can also be velcroed to the top tube, but you should make sure that it is not too long to draw while riding.

In this country, dogs almost always approach from the rider's right. This is probably out of respect for the average rider's righthandedness - the dogs are issuing a challenge and want a fair fight. However, there may be other explananations. Be that as it may, I have found that the very light rod can be swung easily right-handed while riding, and is long enough to strike a dog which has not yet gotten close enough to bite. It also will not injure the dog. Whether this is good or bad depends on the exact situation, but it is probably usually a good thing, all things considered. Probably the act of swinging the stick affects some dogs independently of the actual physical effect, but I'm pretty sure that a vigorous swing will actually sting the dog enough to get his attention. I have only actually struck dogs in these circumstances once or twice, and it worked fine.

My favorite stick is a little under 39" long and weighs just over an ounce, so it should appeal to the sawed-off-toothbrush and drilled-out-water-bottle crowd.
 
I generally ride with the skinny end of an old fishing rod across my handle bars, held by velcro straps. Sometimes the left (skinny) end has a flag on the end of it. on occasion it has had a small nut on the end of it. This all has to do with claiming the part of the road to which I am entitled at any given moment.
Click to expand...
Does this mean that the rod sticks out to either side, threatening drivers with scratched paint if they get too close?

I also like the sjambok. I have one of the new Cold Steels and plan to cut it down to 36", starting from the narrow end and cutting away the thick end. It will ride in a piece of PVC pipe velcroed or zip-tied to the frame. The pipe will be painted or taped to match my bike frame. When I'm away from the bike, I'll pass a S&W cable lock through a hole in the butt of the sjambok and lock it to the bicycle.

A pistol is not a bad idea, but only if you stop and dismount first. One of my colleagues was chased several years ago by a carload of teens swinging knives out the car windows as they passed him. He finally lost them by riding through an apartment complex.

In summary, when I'm on the bike, I focus on riding. You can "strip" a pursuing dog or pedestrian by riding close to a parked car, post, etc. Apartment complexes are a great place for losing annoying humans in cars. With dogs, the others are right: dismount and use the bike as a shield. That and a command voice will stop 95% of dogs.

Any suggestions for dealing with deer? One of the areas where I ride is overrun with deer: in the front yards, in the alleys, etc.

Regards,
Dirty Bob
 
DB,

Yes, the rod sticks out to the left, with nut and flag. Once, many years ago, a pickup truck actually came close enough that he hit the rod, and I could hear that thing running the whole side of his truck, with a couple of thumps as the nut passed over door and cab borders. He never stopped. I always wondered whether he was embarrassed because he knew he had screwed up, or thought he had hit me, or what. At any rate, the rod flexed, and I never even felt it in my handlebars.

Hard to strip a dog on the open road in the countryside. Never had a problem with pedestrians, or with deer while riding a bike. Actually, very few high-speed encounters with deer even in an auto.

Strongly agree on dismounting or at least full stop before even drawing a firearm.
 
tournament

Since this is a non firearms category, how about a lance, if you can manage it? And join the S.C.A. to get jousting lessons.

More realistically though, would be a stout hickory stick; "jo" as the Japanese call them. I would tie mine under the frame bar with thread, and break it loose. All I ever had to do was poke it when fido got too close, and pedal away.
 
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