I have a rifle stock that has deep dry cracks and need to fill and restain. What is the best wood filler that takes stain well? I have tried several types but they all have resin in the foumula and would not take stain well enough and color much lighter than the wood after stained.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Best wood filler that takes stain well?
- Thread starter HankC
- Start date
- Status
-
Not open for further replies.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
No wood filler takes stain to the same extent as raw wood fiber.
The best method I have found for filling cracks & checks in a stock is to squirt some thin
Hot Stuff CA adhesive (like Crazy Glue) in them.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM371&P=FR
It wicks in and cures instantly.
After which it can be sanded flush with the crack and finish applied.
Being clear, it becomes practically invisible in the other grain pattern of the wood.
Any hobby shop should carry it.
rc
The best method I have found for filling cracks & checks in a stock is to squirt some thin
Hot Stuff CA adhesive (like Crazy Glue) in them.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM371&P=FR
It wicks in and cures instantly.
After which it can be sanded flush with the crack and finish applied.
Being clear, it becomes practically invisible in the other grain pattern of the wood.
Any hobby shop should carry it.
rc
I've used AccraGlass liquid epoxy (not gel) to cover complete wood stocks to fill the grain. I just brush it on and smooth it out with the brush to keep it from running and sagging. After it's sanded smooth I apply TruOil and the finish is amazing!
Fiberglass resin might also work.. though I haven't tried it...yet!
Fiberglass resin might also work.. though I haven't tried it...yet!
nitetrane98
Member
It's a real crapshoot to try and fill cracks. The stuff Minwax sells in a tube comes close sometimes but I doubt that it would withstand the shock if it's a high powered rifle. Most of them suck up stain like a sponge regardless of the color of the stain and the cracks will become "LOOK AT ME" areas.
An old trick is to use the sawdust from the actual wood mixed with PVA glue. I've had real good success with that on some things and not so good also.
RC's idea is very good, especially if you are going to completely fill the grain with your finish. If not you can end up with a big flat area amongst the grain. Sometimes you need to use a needle or something to break the surface tension and get the stuff into the bottom of the crack. If you don't, it will bridge over the crack and it will still be there when you sand it flush.
Be sure to give it plenty of tme to cure and become rock hard. If you try to sand it too soon it'll make a gummy mess.
An old trick is to use the sawdust from the actual wood mixed with PVA glue. I've had real good success with that on some things and not so good also.
RC's idea is very good, especially if you are going to completely fill the grain with your finish. If not you can end up with a big flat area amongst the grain. Sometimes you need to use a needle or something to break the surface tension and get the stuff into the bottom of the crack. If you don't, it will bridge over the crack and it will still be there when you sand it flush.
Be sure to give it plenty of tme to cure and become rock hard. If you try to sand it too soon it'll make a gummy mess.
I use mohawk wood grain filler that's what they use in the factory. www.mohawkfinishing.com.
I use mohawk wood grain filler that's what they use in the factory.
What factory would that be?
dirtyjim
Member
i've used several different things to fill cracks & checks.
if the crack or checks are wide enough i'll take a sliver of wood from inside the barrel channel and superglue it into the crack then sand it down level, accraglass or just about any other epoxy that dries hard will also work inplace of superglue.
i tried mixing sawdust with epoxy too and didn't like the results as much as supergluing a sliver of wood into the crack. to make clean sawdust you must use a file not sandpaper.
i had a stock that had very open pores that resembled tiny cracks all over it. i coated it with amber shelac then sanded it down to bare wood to fill the cracks. this is an easy way to fill pores
if the crack or checks are wide enough i'll take a sliver of wood from inside the barrel channel and superglue it into the crack then sand it down level, accraglass or just about any other epoxy that dries hard will also work inplace of superglue.
i tried mixing sawdust with epoxy too and didn't like the results as much as supergluing a sliver of wood into the crack. to make clean sawdust you must use a file not sandpaper.
i had a stock that had very open pores that resembled tiny cracks all over it. i coated it with amber shelac then sanded it down to bare wood to fill the cracks. this is an easy way to fill pores
Nicky Santoro
Member
Minwax make a pre-colored wood putty in a number of colors. One of them may suit your needs.
Would the pre-colored filler can be finished with polyurethene or oil? or they should be applied after final finish?Minwax make a pre-colored wood putty in a number of colors. One of them may suit your needs.
- Status
-
Not open for further replies.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 1
- Views
- 749
- Replies
- 3
- Views
- 697
- Replies
- 6
- Views
- 752