Bicycle For Range or Hunting

[carebear]

Cos,

How bout running the rifle scabbard more like one would on a horse. Instead of muzzle down with the butt protruding forward, have the butt come up behind the seat, out of your way. It should be easy enough to tie the upper portion onto the seat post with a pipe clamp.

I wouldn't think it would interfere with the pedals if it angles in toward the centerline and the muzzle would be protected in the v of the frame. If the bike fell over the rifle would be the last thing to hit, and it would hit flat.

The weight would be more vertically oriented directly beneath your body and you would have room for rear and front panniers.

If I'm eyeballing it right, you wouldn't then need a high top bar as the scabbard wouldn't need one to attach to in front. Which would open up more bike options.

 

[MrBorland]

They've still compacted the diamond on that Trek. I really don't understand why they do that. It must be some trend in mountain biking.

When the top tube slopes down, it is, in fact, referred to as "compact geometry". It started off with mtbs long ago it seems, but now many road bikes use compact geometry. In the case of mtbs, I think compact geometry was developed to give the rider more clearance between the top tube and their crotch. Given the technical nature of some forms of mtb riding, it seems like a good idea. Some believe it's a technical advance for weight reduction or frame stiffness, and some manufacterers would like you to believe that. Technically, the frame is a wee bit lighter (all else being equal), but the longer seat post makes up the difference. In the case of factory road bikes, it's purely cosmetic. In the case of custom (mtb and road) frames, though, a good framebuilder can use sloping geometry to increase the head tube length (i.e. get the bars higher) while maintaining proper crotch clearance (i.e. "standover height"). This might be good for your application, so long as the compact geometry really does get the bars up. Again, it won't in most factory bikes, but a custom builder can design it so.

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Hmmm.....never thought of that. That could come in handy for my bike when it comes to going up to the U.P. wilds of Michigan. Mine would be tailor made for just that situation; even my FAL would fit easily.

 

[Caimlas]

I finally figured out what you guys were talking about when you said that these modern bikes have "squished diamond frames". You're talking about the ground clearance from the crotch bar (or whatever you want to call it).

Mine isn't "squished" (the frame looks lamost identical to Stevie-Ray's - but my wheels are probably larger. Are those 24" wheels on a 26" frame? ) - it's probably close to 24" from pedal area to the top of that little triangle - but then I'm kinda tall, and so is my bike. Unless you're going to drape a saddle bag across that bar (which makes riding kinda difficult), I can not see a reason to complain about the bar being lowered - like what they do on womens' bikes.

I mean, c'mon - it's not a street bike; it's a mountain bike. You're going to be going over dips and bumps and through rough terrain with it (in all likelihood, if you use it as it's designed). If you want a touring bike, get one; if you want a utility bike, get one.

But with a mountain bike, having that bar as far away from your testicles is a real advantage!

Down side of a 'modern' mountain bike: the brake cables are usually exposed over that bar (ie prone to direct wear to the advantage of the brake tension consistency), and they often have some "non-standard" frame elements which make things like racks, bags, and water bottles difficult to attach.

Here's a trick: If you've got quick-release wheels, get a couple extra rims and put different tires on them: some for off-road (ie wide) and some for road use (ie narrow). It makes a big difference in both cases. But maybe I'm going a bit overboard - switching out tires is a bit irritating.

I've noticed that many modern bike designs tend to balance the weight of the rider more so on the front wheel base than some older bikes do (ie mountain bikes), and aren't generally fit for riding long distances / touring due to how they will strain your upper back and neck (look at stevie-ray's photo and imagine the seat a couple inches higher to see what I'm getting at). It also makes going down a steep incline somewhat terrifying, due to both the weight distribution as well as the fact that your head is so far below your body. I've got this problem, personally; I've got some L-shaped elevator/pull bars on the ends of my handle bars, and I'm probably going to get some two-handle "racing" break levers so I can break from an elevated as well as more inclined riding position.

 

[Cosmoline]

Here is Phase 2. I've now fixed a chicken soup can to the frame to hold and secure the end of the scabbard. I shifted the ammo bags to the back rack, where they fit quite well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xz1IdG928ns

How bout running the rifle scabbard more like one would on a horse. Instead of muzzle down with the butt protruding forward, have the butt come up behind the seat, out of your way. It should be easy enough to tie the upper portion onto the seat post with a pipe clamp.

That's an interesting idea.

 

[RMc]

Optional

Perhaps this is too basic: Is bicycle hunting a good reason to take up handgun hunting?

 

[JamisJockey]

I love RMC's point

Mine isn't "squished" (the frame looks lamost identical to Stevie-Ray's - but my wheels are probably larger. Are those 24" wheels on a 26" frame? ) - it's probably close to 24" from pedal area to the top of that little triangle - but then I'm kinda tall, and so is my bike. Unless you're going to drape a saddle bag across that bar (which makes riding kinda difficult), I can not see a reason to complain about the bar being lowered - like what they do on womens' bikes.

Actually, Stevie-Ray's is a 26" wheeled bike....he's just running a huge frame which means he's probably in the 6'2"-6'5" range.




Compact geometry on all bikes makes the frame stiffer and handle tight. Great for cornering and low speed handling on a mountain bike. Compact road bikes sprint and climb better, especially out of the saddle.

Cos, I think you're putting too much in the cosmetics of such a frame, without actually riding one????? I rode one of those Trek urban bikes a few months ago, and it handles like a champ. It blasted across a parking lot, over curbs and through the grass nicely.
And maybe new isn't for you. A little searching would net you something like an older Trek 800 or 850, complete with braze ons for racks, 21 speed gearing, a weight savings over your crusiter, and a strong steel frame. Steel is great because it can actually be repaired.

Depending on how much ammo you're hauling to the range, trailers usually only have 100# capacity.
Here's a link with some more trailers
http://www.bicycletrailers.com/
Some of the old school kid trailers had plastic tubs, might be a good cheap foundation for a one-off.
My kids get dragged around in style
http://www.chariotcarriers.com/html_english/cougar2.htm

Down side of a 'modern' mountain bike: the brake cables are usually exposed over that bar (ie prone to direct wear to the advantage of the brake tension consistency), and they often have some "non-standard" frame elements which make things like racks, bags, and water bottles difficult to attach

The reason for that is that if the bike needs to be carried on your shoulder you don't have the cables interferring with it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaipuka/294728240/

 

[Cosmoline]

Different tools for different jobs. I'm not looking for running around on backwoods race courses. Concerns such as this:

The reason for that is that if the bike needs to be carried on your shoulder you don't have the cables interferring with it.

... simply don't apply. I don't need a bike that's squished down, trimmed down and design for something I'm never going to do. What I do need the bike to do is haul me and cargo every day, week in week out, through both the six months of snow and the six months of sun. I need a utility bicycle, not a fun weekend bike. But try getting one stateside and all you get is flak. That's another discussion, though. I don't use a bicycle for weekend rides or "blasting across" anything. I use it instead of a car. What I really need is a Monarch utility bike or barring that to build my own bike. In the mean time the Marin is doing OK, though I honestly don't expect it to survive more than a year.

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Actually, Stevie-Ray's is a 26" wheeled bike....he's just running a huge frame which means he's probably in the 6'2"-6'5" range.

Yessir, I'm 6'3" and the frame's a 25 incher. I don't recommend it for anybody shorter than me. But this also makes it harder to steal, i.e. unwanted by most. I got it for mostly riding in our park. I have an old Schwinn Continental that is pristine and a great road bike, but having to go around many joggers, rollerbladers, etc. on the grass can get quite.......interesting. I needed some kind of mountain bike and this one fit the bill nicely. The disc brakes are a real plus along with the paddle shifters. I love it so far, though I've had it only a year. The idea of packing even a .22 rifle on it for my trips up north is rather exciting, and I'm definitely going to explore that further.

 

[JamisJockey]

I bought a "bulldog" fanny pack that holds my Keltec P3AT nicely. I usually only carry when exploring new territory.....I should have had it in NC I got chased by 3 dogs in a 5 mile stretch last month....


Cosmoline:
Then, IMHO, you should probably save up some coin and go with a Surly Long Haul Trucker or a Pugsly. Do a little checking, though, Surly isn't the only company making frames for 4" wide tires anymore.....
Oh and here's a link for your frozen Alaskan butt
http://www.icebike.com/

 

[Cosmoline]

That's the plan, though 4" is overkill. I like the Pugsley but a an urban ice bike would be a bit different from the snow bikes they use for racing. It would need to be good both in snow drifts and on pavement. My Nokian freddies revenz are the perfect tire, I just need to find the perfect bike to go with them. As I understand the info from Surly, you can use standard doublewides instead of their "large marge" beasts if you use disk brakes, which I plan on doing. I haven't decided what all the components will be, but I'll definately have a nice alloy seat post, good racks front and back, stout cranks and jumbo size BMX pedals for my size 13 boots. A frame mounted heavy weapons platform is also a possibility.

 

[JamisJockey]

Look into freeride pedals. I think they are bigger than BMX pedals....

 

[Clark]

I hunted deer last year by bike, and the rifle banged into me.

I hunted prairie dogs last week with a bike, and it picked up so much mud that the wheels would not turn.

Still, I love biking and love hunting.

 

[bicyclewrench]

http://www.antbikemike.com/index.html Check this guy out. He builds bikes and racks to haul all sorts of loads. My hunting bike will probably be a fully rigid (no suspension) 29er (new standard of road sized wheels with mountain tires) With lowered gearing. I've thought about using an atv handlebar rack like this http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/pr...c=comparisonshopping-_-froogle-_-all-_-470712 There isn't a truck or atv made that can go where I can go on a bicycle. Cycling and hunting are the two most enjoyable pastimes in the world!

 

[Cosmoline]

I hunted deer last year by bike, and the rifle banged into me.

That's why I decided to put mine on the frame. Try it!

 

[Malone LaVeigh]

Wow, those bikes went for really good prices. I haven't bought one in many years, so I'm a bit intimidated with all of the new technology. My last one was a Pugeot 18 speed I bought in 1984. I put on a Brooks leather saddle and softer grips, and used it for years. A few months ago my son rode it to school and it was stolen.

JJ: Just what do I look for that indicates a rigid frame?

 

[RubenZ]

CLARK's post is exactly how I figure bike hunting would be, almost unpleasant

 

[MrBorland]

My hunting bike will probably be a fully rigid (no suspension) 29er (new standard of road sized wheels with mountain tires) With lowered gearing.

I was going to suggest 29" wheels as well. The larger the wheel, the relatively smaller the bump. I've never ridden one, but 29ers are supposed to ride really well.

After looking at Clark's photos, it reminded me of another issue - all that mud can clog up brakes, gears and derailleurs, too. I'm thinking the perfect hunting bike might use a big honkin' front caliper brake, a rear coaster brake, and/or internally-geared hubs, like those old English 3-speeds, except now these hubs are now made for up to 8 gears. In cities such as Copenhagen, where a lot of people bike commute, internal hubs seem to be the norm, as people leave their bikes outside in the elements, and internal gearing is fairly impervious to the elements. It also gets ride of the rear derailleur, which can bend or break in rough terrain.

Finally, on a technical note, one advantage that mtbs have over cruisers (or the like) for your application is their front end geometry, specifically the head angle. The technicalities are beyond the scope of this thread, but the front head angle on cruisers, road or touring bikes is fairly shallow and isn't really suitable for off-roading. I'm wondering if you don't feel like you're "fighting" the front end of your current cruiser when going off-road with it. I think your ideal bike wouldn't be a strict mtb or a cruiser, but a hybrid of both. Again, a good frame builder can combine the best of both.

 

[goon]

I remembered this thread. At the time, I thought the bike was a good idea but impractical for my uses.
Now, it's looking a whole lot more practical.
Figured I should look it up and read over it - I haven't ridden a bike anywhere in about 7 years.
Even then, my last bike ride involved boredom, a substantial amount of alcoholic beverage, and an E-5 who was not known for his sense of humor, so I'm not sure it would really count.

 

[RaspberrySurprise]

I've been wondering how to do this myself, I really need to start riding or walking to work since it's only about 1.5 miles away. The range I go to is like ten miles away though so anything I used would have to be pretty sturdy. I suppose I could probably sling the AK over my back but the Mosin or SKS would need a scabbard. Does anybody know if carrying a pistol in a backpack out to the range would be illegal without a CPL?

 

[LKB3rd]

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Deluxe-Electric-Guitar-Gig-Bag?sku=541309 work well as long as the rifle isn't too long. They have straps like a backpack.

 

[Cannonball888]

I want to ride my bike at the 600 yd range I plan to join. I can't justify buying a golf cart or ATV just to check my targets.

 

[ilbob]

I used to ride my bike a lot when I was in school. Had a cheap bike I bought at a local bike shop. Nothing special.

I had the spring loaded carrier on the back and a basket on the front. Kind of geeky looking, but the front basket worked pretty well for grocery shopping.

I knew people who used backpacks for carrying stuff on bikes. I tried it a few times. I am thinking a shoulder carried gun case would be pretty awkward.

Never tried riding around Chicago with a gun strapped on my bike though. I did take my Mini14 out to the range regularly though. Just carried it out to the car and put it in the trunk - was in a soft case. Lots of people saw it and had to know there was some kind of long gun in the case. No one cared.

 

[.38 Special]

I build my own frames, which is actually fairly simple, albeit time-consuming. And I do like traditional designs:



This sort of frame is available from a dozen or so custom builders, but prices start at about $2000 and go up quickly from there. So it was either learn how to build frames, or mortgage the house.

So in the OP's shoes, I'd buy a Bernz-O-Matic, a book, and some practice tubing and lugs and get going. Maybe there's an untapped market out there!

 

[.38 Special]

Compact geometry on all bikes makes the frame stiffer and handle tight. Great for cornering and low speed handling on a mountain bike. Compact road bikes sprint and climb better, especially out of the saddle.

I see someone's been successfully advertised to!

The other school of thought re. compact geometry is that rather than having to make frames in one or two cm. increments, manufacturers can make "small", "medium", and "large" and call it a day, thereby saving quite a bit of money. Convincing folks that this was actually a performance improvement was just icing on their cake. IMO, of course...