Bone Collector vs. 550-pics!

[Yo Mama]

I really like the axis lock that Benchmade has. After getting a 550, I decided on the 15020-Bone Collector. I attached pictures comparing both if anyone is in the market for either.

I love both, but they are different beasts. The 550 is smaller, and has a slight resistance in the action, vs. the 15020 having none at all. I love the steel full liners in the Bone Collector, and they really add some heft to the knife. The G10 scales are not as grippy as the 550, but the bone pattern adds to the grip surface well. The 15020 is much much heavier, like sick heavy, but I like heavy knives so EDC has been no problem for 3 weeks now.

The carry clip on the 15020 rides lower in the pocket.

The D2 in the Bone Collector has not failed, but I did notice it's a bit toothier than the 154c steel on the 550. What I mean is that with plastic the D2 grips and tears as it cuts, but with cord ect it's been smooth as butter.

I'm glad I got both. Would love your thoughts or experiences with these blades.

 

[sonofodin]

I have a 553 (tanto) version. Mine came slighty dull (odd for benchmade I know) and I finally just reworked the edge this morning. Now it has tooling marks on the finish but so what, its sharp. I also have a model 5000 I got in the Army, which came so sharp it puts other companies to shame. I never really use it so its got a PERFECT edge on it. I also have a model 10300 which is the Monochrome with N690 steel. Its a great little knife but its too smooth and slippy in the hand. The edge is ultra sharp but I dont use it for too much because I dont really trust the frame lock. Lastly I have an Osborne 950 Rift which has an oddly dull tip (that I did not creat). So I think im gong to rework that one after posting this. Besides the automatic I got, the RIFT is my favorite by far. Griptillians are awesome as well. FWIW I think a little TLC time with a black arkasas stone will cure that rippy teary cut with the D2. D2 is a pain the spacehole to sharpen but I think the effort is worth it. I always touch up new blades on a black or translucent stone unless the come out of the box SCARY sharp. Anyways, enjoy it. I always wanted one of those bone collectors.

 

[Yo Mama]

You know, funny you said the dull issue you had, same here I'm finding. WIth the bone collector, the blade was scary sharp,...for a bit. Now it cuts, but isn't as sharp. I'm wondering if this helps keep a usable edge longer?

 

[sonofodin]

Well after working on that RIFT it seems the dull spot at the tip just simply wont come out. I have a SOG Architect that wont cut butter and was dull out of the box. I used to have a Nitrous Striker with a blade of D2 and it cut like a champ. Like I said, touch that edge up with a back or trans' arkansas stone and it will pop right there. I try to feel the edge before I buy it you know to see if its scary sharp. D2 will (as im sure you know) hold an edge for awhile, but that nitrous striker stayed razor sharp all through my Iraq tour with just a touch up here n there. It shouldent "rip or tear" when it cuts. Also, there might be residue you dont notice by the eye on the edge. Ive had that happen also, where you cut for a bit and it seems to dull. But a flash with this little black arkasas stone and all of a sudden its back to shave-your-leg goodness.

Im not a noob and I'm not all-knowing. From my experiance in collecting knives and reading and reading more about metallurgy and knife making it seems to me that sometimes you get a piece that just is not quiet right. It wont keep the edge like it should, not as sharp as it should be etc. Sometimes it remedied with sharpening. Sometimes sharpening wont help the dang blasted thing a bit. I think sometimes you just run across a bum. Sometimes you get the one that is so stupid sharp it will cut a patch right off your leg in one smooth swipe. Sometimes, its so pathetic your disgusted with some company for letting it slip. It happens I suppose. Someone wasent at 100% and let their quality slip. Can we fault them for being human, or be mad that the knife we bought wasent 100% perfect to our liking?

 

[sonofodin]

Case in point. My griptillian sharpened right up. Cuts through this magazine like god willed it to be. This RIFT has a spot at the curve that just wont take an edge. its literally dull enough to run across my finger. Same 154CM steel. (though I wish it was the opposide because i like the rift so much better)

 

[Unistat]

My 710 just came in the mail today. I needed a new big folder for mostly SD purposes and I hate liner locks. I already have a 555 Mini-Grip that I absolutely love, so I know that the Axis lock is awsome.

As to D2 vs. 154CM, I don't notice much of a difference. One thing about "toothyness" I noticed is that after I sharpen knives with a fine diamond is that the knife is plenty sharp (shaving) but still doesn't seem "slick" when slicing through things. So now I take an Arkansas stone and some honing oil and "polish" the edge. It seems trivial, but it really increases the "slickness" when slicing.

But the "toothyness" probably contributes to the ability to cut through cordage, similiar to the way serrated blades cut rope better.

 

[conw]

One thing about "toothyness" I noticed is that after I sharpen knives with a fine diamond is that the knife is plenty sharp (shaving) but still doesn't seem "slick" when slicing through things. So now I take an Arkansas stone and some honing oil and "polish" the edge. It seems trivial, but it really increases the "slickness" when slicing.

By "slick" do you mean "less cutting resistance?" That would make sense but would probably be unrelated to "toothiness." If so I get you but to me when I think of (non-toothy) slick knives, it means they are not aggressive enough slicers.

The only real world cut I make that isn't partially a slice would be on a cutting board with food, i.e. "dicing."

I think toothy=non-slick=aggressive=good. For more toothy goodness stop short of the fine diamond stone.

 

[Unistat]

By "toothy" I'm talking about the smoothness of the metal in the actual bevel on the edge. A knife can be very sharp, but have tiny, almost micro, grooves or lines on the bevel. Like tiny serrations. These can be polished out and the knife is no more or less sharp.

The tiny grooves, will bite into the cutting material. The knife will require more force to slice, but will cut deeper. That is why many prefer serrations on a combo edge so they can cut rope easier.

The polished edge is just as sharp, but will not bite as much into the material. This is desired for slices with cleaner edges. If the resistance bothers you or if you need to do very fine work (Xacto blade like) you can polish up the bevel.

I find it unnecessary, other than an exercise, but I could see where someone would want a very polished knife like a skinning knife.

I think this is what the original poster is encountering here:

The D2 in the Bone Collector has not failed, but I did notice it's a bit toothier than the 154c steel on the 550. What I mean is that with plastic the D2 grips and tears as it cuts, but with cord ect it's been smooth as butter.

But I could be wrong.

 

[sonofodin]

I think your right Unistat. But I know exactly what your implying about putting a final, smooth edge on the blade. When sharpened with the coarser diamond then finished on your Arkansas stone it produces a very smooth edge that seems to glide right through stuff effortlessly. I prefer this very, very fine edge in the knives that I carry day to day as it proves superb for most cutting tasks I am suprised with. I also prefere the ultra smooth edge on blades I carry for self defense.

 

[Unistat]

I think your right Unistat. But I know exactly what your implying about putting a final, smooth edge on the blade. When sharpened with the coarser diamond then finished on your Arkansas stone it produces a very smooth edge that seems to glide right through stuff effortlessly. I prefer this very, very fine edge in the knives that I carry day to day as it proves superb for most cutting tasks I am suprised with. I also prefere the ultra smooth edge on blades I carry for self defense.

Yes, and the D2 steel being a little harder than 154CM, those little grooves might be harder to get out.

 

[sonofodin]

Indeed they are most difficult to get out. Involving polishing at coarser grits longer. But I suppose its worth it.