Bottleneck question?

Fastest way to do it get range pickup brass find one or a few that will almost chamber in your gun and that doesn't try to get stuck.
IF you have a weird gun and can't get any brass that was fired in other guns then neck size your brass and reload them till they get sticky, may take 1 to 3 shots.
Remove ball expander from FL die.
GAP the die, say 5 to 10 thousands if your round head spaces on the case shoulder, using feeler gauges. Size brass that brass that almost chambers and see if it chambers.
Reduce the gap one or 2 thousands at a time till the case chambers easy.
After you think you found the gap reinstall the ball expander.
load up 10 shots and fire them, load the same cases up and and fire them them 2 more times make sure you don't get any shots that make the bolt handle hard to lift or hard to go into battery and your dies are set.
if you get cases that are hard to chamber or extract close the gap at least 2 or 3 thousands more.
you will likely find that you need little to no gap on case that head space on the shoulder.
I clock the dies with a sharpie so I don't need as much toolage. Same process, though.
 
I'm HOPING this is a genuine question, rather than the type of game playing that Guffey used to play - so if it IS an honest question, scroll on this webpage down to the video labeled "Sizing Brass"

Wheeler Accuracy - Info Videos Page
Yes, quite genuine. I don't play games.
They say the only stupid question is the one you never ask. I've heard about bumping the shoulder back but never asked the question before (stupid of me, I know)
Thanks for the link!
 
I've never annealed brass before, especially nickel plated. Unsure of how hot you want it to get? I've seen a lot of annealed brass in photos but it's not plated brass.

Tempilaq. Color change is a terrible indicator, bad practice. Use tempilaq, set your timer with it, then follow the timer (or set speed for your annealer with it).
 
I would full length resize and if they chamber and pass a case gauge leave it at that. I would see what kind of brass life you are getting first before going into the annealing stuff.
 
Neck sizing only is something to consider with say a Lee-Enfield with its “generous” chambers or some lever guns, for example. Unless there are good reasons to neck size only (and there aren’t very many) annealing and FL sizing is probably best.

Lube your 303 Brit before firing. After firing, bump the shoulder back 0.003", and lube them again before firing.

WS6nFLb.jpg


The Brits had cupro nickle bullets which jacket fouled something awful. However, greasing the bullets prevented jacket fouling. Greasing a bullet will end up with grease in the chamber, which prevents case head separations. Such as:

WYu3fXJ.jpg


Greased bullets and cases were very prevalent with SMLE's.


Chronicle Newspaper, 13 Feb 1930 Adelaide Australia


Rifle Shooting

GREASED BULLETS


Opinion is so divided on the question of the benefits of using greased, bullets that riflemen would be well advised to give the practice a thorough try-out to ascertain if their present method of shooting is giving the best results. This advice applies to those using a lot of lubricant, those using a little, and those who do not use any. There are prominent riflemen who pile the lubricant on the bullet and get good scores; there are others who have been equally as free with the grease and have got very bad scores; and naturally the two parties hold very different opinions on the subject. The greasing of bullets was introduced in an attempt to prevent the nickel of the bullet adhering to the surface of the inside of the barrel when firing was being carried out. The theory that a lubricant would prevent the two metals “sticking” appears quite in order, but this prevention had to be carried out without any loss of the rifle's accuracy. It was here that the trouble occurred as it was found that as soon as the heat of the barrel turned the grease to oil, which worked into the chamber of the barrel, the bullets began to fly high, as is the case when water gets into the chamber. * The riflemen who had scores spoilt in this manner immediately discarded the use of the lubricant, preferring to chance the nickel trouble as the lesser of the two evils. But, seeing that other men used lots of grease and continued to get good scores, the question arose as to whether the state of the rifling of the barrel should not be taken into consideration with the grease question. Men with new Enfield barrels which have sharp lands, bandied the greased bullets better than those with Metford barrels, which have shallow round lands. This implies that worn barrels do not handle greased bullets as well as the new. One good shot recently was having a run of poor scores. His rifle picked up nickel, so he always used greased bullets. He decided to discontinue the use of the grease, and his scores immediately improved several points. Two other big shots had the same experience. It is possible that had they experimented with reduced amounts of lubricant they might have discovered that they could use a certain amount and get good scores, and at the same time keep the nickel down. There can be little doubt that less lubricant could be used with advantage in the summer, owing to it melting more quickly than in the winter. Rifle men should not only experiment with the quantity to be used but also with the kind, there being several different brands in use.

* note: the Lee Enfield action is very flexible and changes in breech friction create a point of impact change)
 
Lube your 303 Brit before firing. After firing, bump the shoulder back 0.003", and lube them again before firing.

WS6nFLb.jpg


The Brits had cupro nickle bullets which jacket fouled something awful. However, greasing the bullets prevented jacket fouling. Greasing a bullet will end up with grease in the chamber, which prevents case head separations. Such as:

WYu3fXJ.jpg


Greased bullets and cases were very prevalent with SMLE's.


Chronicle Newspaper, 13 Feb 1930 Adelaide Australia


Rifle Shooting

GREASED BULLETS


Opinion is so divided on the question of the benefits of using greased, bullets that riflemen would be well advised to give the practice a thorough try-out to ascertain if their present method of shooting is giving the best results. This advice applies to those using a lot of lubricant, those using a little, and those who do not use any. There are prominent riflemen who pile the lubricant on the bullet and get good scores; there are others who have been equally as free with the grease and have got very bad scores; and naturally the two parties hold very different opinions on the subject. The greasing of bullets was introduced in an attempt to prevent the nickel of the bullet adhering to the surface of the inside of the barrel when firing was being carried out. The theory that a lubricant would prevent the two metals “sticking” appears quite in order, but this prevention had to be carried out without any loss of the rifle's accuracy. It was here that the trouble occurred as it was found that as soon as the heat of the barrel turned the grease to oil, which worked into the chamber of the barrel, the bullets began to fly high, as is the case when water gets into the chamber. * The riflemen who had scores spoilt in this manner immediately discarded the use of the lubricant, preferring to chance the nickel trouble as the lesser of the two evils. But, seeing that other men used lots of grease and continued to get good scores, the question arose as to whether the state of the rifling of the barrel should not be taken into consideration with the grease question. Men with new Enfield barrels which have sharp lands, bandied the greased bullets better than those with Metford barrels, which have shallow round lands. This implies that worn barrels do not handle greased bullets as well as the new. One good shot recently was having a run of poor scores. His rifle picked up nickel, so he always used greased bullets. He decided to discontinue the use of the grease, and his scores immediately improved several points. Two other big shots had the same experience. It is possible that had they experimented with reduced amounts of lubricant they might have discovered that they could use a certain amount and get good scores, and at the same time keep the nickel down. There can be little doubt that less lubricant could be used with advantage in the summer, owing to it melting more quickly than in the winter. Rifle men should not only experiment with the quantity to be used but also with the kind, there being several different brands in use.

* note: the Lee Enfield action is very flexible and changes in breech friction create a point of impact change)
The bolt thrust increase must have been acceptable while getting the reduced destruction of cases and horrible barrel fowling... never shot one. Only gun I've ever herd to put an oring on the case to prevent chs. Seems like the case chamber arrangement leaves a lot to be desired.
 
The bolt thrust increase must have been acceptable while getting the reduced destruction of cases and horrible barrel fowling... never shot one. Only gun I've ever herd to put an oring on the case to prevent chs. Seems like the case chamber arrangement leaves a lot to be desired.

As long as you are not exceeding maximum pressures, you are not over stressing the action. Actions are designed to carry the full thrust of the cartridge, as maintaining a fixed level of friction is impossible in the field.

rimfires have been greased since the beginning

4tB9RN1.jpg


Machine cannon used case lubrication:

IYKqBZA.jpg



popular lubricated case:

9toBL2u.jpg


gas lubrication is used on the roller bolts

PB9SaEH.jpg
 
For all you guys who load bottleneck rifle...do you full-length resize or neck size your cases?
It's said that neck sizing only extends the life of your brass by only re-working the necked down portion of the brass, leaving the fireformed case expanded to fit the chamber, thus cutting down on work hardening of the brass and case length growth and subsequent trimming.

If I am setting up the die for use with a given rifle, I use a FL size die to size the case to just fit the chamber, like this.


If its for a number of different rifles, I set the die using a case gauge.

I have one rifle that for whatever reason shoots its best with the neck only sized on the portion that holds the bullet, the rest going untouched. Even then I am using a FL die though, because of the tapers, the body simply isn't touched because the die is too high to do so.
 
I've never annealed brass before, especially nickel plated. Unsure of how hot you want it to get? I've seen a lot of annealed brass in photos but it's not plated brass.
The most correct way to bring brass that has multiple firings, unknown numbers of firings back to uniformity is heat fired brass to at least 1,225f, hold for at least 2 seconds, then size it with a full length sizer die with expander ball.
I would actually recommend not annealing 1x factory brass and using a FL neck bushing die or collet die plus body, or neck sizer bushing die plus body die.
But if all you want to run is a FL body die with expander ball for sizing dies probably anneal every time.
 
or collet die plus body, or neck sizer bushing die plus body die.

@Captain*kirk - Don't follow this advice. Sizing twice, separately, is an invitation to eccentricity and incongruous case dimensions. In these two step processes, one part of the case is being sized while the opposing part of the case is not supported, it's like squeezing toothpaste around in a tube, the brass can move in ways you may not actually want, and isn't supported to remain concentric to the last step. Bad practice.

Full length sizing with a die well matched to your chamber, especially using a neck diameter (honed or bushing) which enables your desired neck tension, in ONE step is the best method to produce consistent cartridge case dimensions.
 
@Captain*kirk - Don't follow this advice. Sizing twice, separately, is an invitation to eccentricity and incongruous case dimensions. In these two step processes, one part of the case is being sized while the opposing part of the case is not supported, it's like squeezing toothpaste around in a tube, the brass can move in ways you may not actually want, and isn't supported to remain concentric to the last step. Bad practice.

Full length sizing with a die well matched to your chamber, especially using a neck diameter (honed or bushing) which enables your desired neck tension, in ONE step is the best method to produce consistent cartridge case dimensions.
I agree, and a custom die made with 3x fired brass is the best solution for old guns with crazy chambers....
 
@Captain*kirk - Don't follow this advice. Sizing twice, separately, is an invitation to eccentricity and incongruous case dimensions. In these two step processes, one part of the case is being sized while the opposing part of the case is not supported, it's like squeezing toothpaste around in a tube, the brass can move in ways you may not actually want, and isn't supported to remain concentric to the last step. Bad practice.

Full length sizing with a die well matched to your chamber, especially using a neck diameter (honed or bushing) which enables your desired neck tension, in ONE step is the best method to produce consistent cartridge case dimensions.
Yeah my 2 step sized hunting ammo only shoots about 3 inches at 330 yards so it's clearly no good.
 
I dabbled with neck sizing for a while but when I got multiple rifles in the same cartridge I started to only full length size cases do all the rounds chambered in all the rifles.

Also, I got into a bunch of semi-auto military rifles and found small base sizing gave the best insurance of the rounds chambering in each of my rifles. Accuracy was still good.

22 Hornet for my 22 Hornet Contender carbine is the only round that I neck size. I get a bit longer case life and from my IHMSA Silhouette shooting days, I found my 7mm- Int Rimmed was more accurate in the Contender Super 14 barrel if the body of the cartridge filled the chamber.
 
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