Boyds wood stocks.
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Varminterror
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Boyd’s makes great budget-friendly stocks and I have bought many of them over the years, but they are not a place I would seek a quality fine hardwood stock.
Txhillbilly
Member
If your looking for a highly figured stock,Boyd's isn't what you want. Their solid wood stocks are pretty straight grained.
Richard's Micro Fit stocks sells many different grades of Walnut stocks,but they are not finished stocks. You will need to do a lot of sanding / shaping to finish one. Most of their inletting is close to drop in,but you may need to do some fitting.
http://www.rifle-stocks.com/hardwood_grades.htm
Richard's Micro Fit stocks sells many different grades of Walnut stocks,but they are not finished stocks. You will need to do a lot of sanding / shaping to finish one. Most of their inletting is close to drop in,but you may need to do some fitting.
http://www.rifle-stocks.com/hardwood_grades.htm
CptnAwesome
Member
I have to agree with @Varminterror on this one. I own several and while I love the look and feel... AND PRICE of Boyd's stocks, I would still consider them just a "budget friendly" option. Instead of a "stock worthy of a fine firearm", if that makes sense.
bangswitch
Member
Boyds also supplies Springfield Armory with walnut stocks for the M1A. Like Txhillbilly said, it's pretty straight grain stuff, but still good quality. My M1A Loaded has a Boyds walnut stock; the finish was well sanded and smooth as glass, but it didn't have all that much of an oiled finish. I fixed that with a nice Teak oil treatment and a coat of BriWax. I've also had one of their laminate stocks, which I used to replace the plastic stock on my Marlin X7. The quality and finish on those is really good, mine was a drop-in fit, and the barrel full-floats from the recoil lug forward. You can slide a sheet of printer paper between the barrel and fore-end, but not two sheets, it's that close.
BigBL87
Member
I have one Boyds stock, and I like it. Mine is on my Savage Mark II FV. I got mine as one of their "Rpaid Fire" sale items. Don't know if they're returned or just overstock, but if they happen to have one for your rifle its a good way to try them out without paying full price. I've tossed around the idea of picking one up for my newly purchased Savage Axis as they're one of the few options for it, but I can't bring myself to pay almost $200 for a stock to put on a rifle I paid $50 for.
While i dont generally recommend modifying Axis rifles, swapping to a boyds if you can get one on clearance is probably the one "upgrade" id do.....Course I absolutely HATE the axis stocks.
Ill echo everyone else, if your building a rifle thats ment to be "fancy" boyds isnt the place to look. I got one of the higher grades of walnut, cant remember what on a stock a while ago, and it was ok, but not as nice as i wanted. I also go it from the rapidfire pile, so only payed a couple hundred. Id have been bent if i paid full price.
BigBL87
Member
Ya, they definitely aren't something I'd use for a "fine" rifle but they are definitely an upgrade over most OEM synthetic stocks. I've looked at the Sharp Shooter Supply Pro-Hunter stock (the only other option I've found aside from a chassis or EABCO's one made for a heavy barrel bench rest rifle), but the lack of sling studs kills me. I know I could add them myself, but I don't trust myself not to screw it up, haha.
rbernie
Contributing Member
For a while now, Boyds has offered uprated wood; maple or walnut with 25% or 50% figure (their terms). I guess the OP is looking for someone who's popped for the option, to provide feedback on the actual delivered wood quality.
I think I will go with their grade 3 bastogne monte carlo stock. Thanks, this helped me make my decision
Just remember that you have to finish the work on a Richards stock, or have someone else do it. Start to finish I think I had 5-7hrs in my last one.
rbernie
Contributing Member
I will say this for the Boyds - the inletting is well done and you won't have to touch it unless you want to bed the action or install pillars.
Yeah i plan on using tru oil
I used teak oil on this one.
I think the Tru Oil is might be quite a bit easier, it seems to fill pores a faster than teak or blo.
As is after spending 4-5hrs with a rasp, and files finishing the profiling, and another 2-3hrs sanding.....I kinda rushed the actual finishing. Probably shoulda put a couple more days in but I was over it lol.
The plus side, is that the action inletting was perfect. All I had to do to actually mount the action was to drill the forward action screw hole, and open the barrel channel.
What wood is on that stock? And also for a hunting rifle should I get the stock checkered?I used teak oil on this one.
I think the Tru Oil is might be quite a bit easier, it seems to fill pores a faster than teak or blo.
As is after spending 4-5hrs with a rasp, and files finishing the profiling, and another 2-3hrs sanding.....I kinda rushed the actual finishing. Probably shoulda put a couple more days in but I was over it lol.
The plus side, is that the action inletting was perfect. All I had to do to actually mount the action was to drill the forward action screw hole, and open the barrel channel.
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I took what was available at the time, so I'm not positive but I THINK this was semi-fancy.
I don't find checkering a must have as long as the stock isn't slippery, which oiled stocks usually arnt. The checkering or stippling is decoration to me, and I LIKE having either nicely done, but would rather not have any, than either if done just "ok".
I don't find checkering a must have as long as the stock isn't slippery, which oiled stocks usually arnt. The checkering or stippling is decoration to me, and I LIKE having either nicely done, but would rather not have any, than either if done just "ok".
Do you or anyone else here now if tru oil would be slippery?
Txhillbilly
Member
I've always used Tung Oil on all the stocks that I finish. No matter if I do a gloss or satin type finish, the stocks aren't slippery to the touch.
12 hand rubbed coats with a gloss finish-
10 hand rubbed coats with a matte finish-
12 hand rubbed coats with a gloss finish-
10 hand rubbed coats with a matte finish-
BigBL87
Member
For the most part that's true, though I did have to take a little fine sandpaper to the barrel channel to get 100% free floated using an index card as the standard.
troy fairweather
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Varminterror
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An appropriate free float should allow 10-15 sheets of paper. Not allowing 2 sheets isn’t offering nearly enough float. Defeats the purpose.
bangswitch
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I figure, as long as it ain't touching, it's floating. Doesn't change after the barrel gets hot, either.
Who did that? You or someone else? And also in person do you think it looks weird or ugly?
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