brand new AR jamming issues

[ArchStanton]

I just received my AR15 after waiting 3.5 months for it. It is a New Frontier Armory G-15 G-TAC.

I oiled it up real nice with Safariland CLP, bought 200 rounds of PMC .223 ammo, and headed to the range. The fit and finish on it is some of the best I've seen on an AR, so I had high hopes.

It chambers a round just fine, but then jams when trying to chamber the next round. I took it apart and put a little more viscous grease on the bolt and I was able to fire 3 or 4 rounds before the same thing happened again. It's not the mags, they're both Magpul PMAGS and worked just fine in my buddy's Daniel Defense AR (as did the .223 ammo). So I started thinking it was the ammo. I went and bought a five packs of Federal 5.56 and went through 90 rounds with no FTFs.

I emailed the company yesterday and haven't heard back. I'll be surprised if they do email me back considering how much I harassed them about the 30 day turned into 3.5 month lead time.

Anyway, my theory is the .223 ammo wasn't hot enough to fully compress the spring and therefore was kinda half loading the ammo. My buddy suggested to run the federal 5.56 ammo through it for 1000 rounds or so and then see if the spring is worked in enough to use the less hot .223 loads. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[ArchStanton]

btw, once I got it firing correctly, I put 29 of 30 on an 8" target at 100 yds with magpul MBUS back up sights.

 

[Taurus 617 CCW]

I would take a look around your gas key-bolt carrier interface area to see if carbon is building up. That indicates a gas leak.

 

[ArchStanton]

No clue, it's all mil-spec and appears to be of great build quality.

They are out of Las Vegas.

 

[ArchStanton]

I would take a look around your gas key-bolt carrier interface area to see if carbon is building up. That indicates a gas leak.

would it be evident after only firing 100 or so rounds through the rifle?

 

[Cosmoline]

I went and bought a five packs of Federal 5.56 and went through 90 rounds with no FTFs.

There you go. You could change the spring to confirm this.

 

[mustbe]

What is a jam? A live round out of battery? Not picking up the next round from the mag? Does it lock back on empty?

Your buddy is off, a new gun should run without a problem. Break in makes it smoother, but it should be reliable out of the box.

Details are needed before a diagnoses can be made.

 

[brian923]

You shouldnt have to grease it up to make it run. Light oil goes a long way. The pressure the .223 round generates is more than enough to Cycle the rifle. You will be able to see if there is gas exscapIng from between the gas block and The top of the barrel itself. What kind of gas block do you have on it. Is it adjustable? pictures help out a ton! expecIally of the type of jam. Do you know who made the barrel. The gas port mIght be drIlled the wrong sIze, but lets not condem that yet.

 

[ArchStanton]

failure to chamber a round with that round wedged diagonally between the front of the bolt and the barrel. that's what I know a jam to be. So, failure to load a round with that round stuck in the action.

this is my first AR15 so I'm not familiar with most of the terms and the documentation that came with the firearm leaves a lot to be desired.

I'd be glad to take pics, I just don't know of what...

Could someone please tell me where the gas block is on this diagram, nothing is marked as the gas block...

http://www.midwayusa.com/General.mvc/Index/Schematics~AR15

also, if someone wants to recommend to me a good book about care and maintenance of my gun, that would be appreciated, don't like feeling lost.

 

[Infidel4life11]

I know as silly as this is going to sound but shoot it some more and see if the issue continues after 300rds. I have a buddy that has a del-ton that had nothing but feeding issues, after 300rds it never had another issue. Now it has about 9000rds through it. I run pmc 55gr fmjbt through mine all day every day and haven't had a single FTF FTE.

 

[ArchStanton]

that's exactly the ammo I was running, and as I said, it fired fine through my buddy's Daniel Defense AR.

still trying to research this gas block issue. just getting frustrated. I'm a pretty mechanical dude and if I can find the info I'll be alright.

 

[jim243]

AR's have two feed ramps, check and make sure they are lined up poperly and that there is not burrs on them. Also run the pipe cleaners made for AR gas tubes down it to make sure it is clear and not fouled.

Just a suggestion.
Jim

Two thirds of the way down your barrel there is a device on your barrel that may or may not have your front sight on it, that is your gas block. It is generally at the end of your handguard on the rifle and may have a bayonet lug on it depending on model.

 

[ArchStanton]

I'm willing to take all of your suggestions, but I need a breakdown manual first. I'm not familiar with this platform and don't know what all these pieces are called. As I said, the documentation that came with the gun contains some pixelated images and a few cleaning tips. Is there some kind of missing manual that everyone buys to learn how to clean and maintain their AR for those of us who never served with a weapon like this? All I know how to do is separate the lower and the upper and remove the BCG and charging handle.

 

[jim243]

Since they did not supply you with a manual, you could try this.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/193441/gun-video-ar-15-operators-manual-cd-rom

Jim

 

[ArchStanton]

Thanks Jim! I have a long sordid history with MidwayUSA, but I found it on another website and ordered it.

My rifle doesn't have the traditional triangular front sight. I'm assuming at this point that the quad rail is covering it up.

 

[ArchStanton]

so when I go shooting tomorrow, where on that gun should I be looking for gas to be escaping when I fire?

 

[TrickyDick]

Well after you're done firing, remove the handguard and check for carbon (Like black soot) surrounding the gas block. I would hold off disassembling for now, just run 200-300 rounds through it of federal then switch back to PMC. although rifles should run perfectly, they're not always perfect. I received a brand new rifle years ago and tried shooting it, and had multuiple FTFs & FTEs. I switched ammo, ran perfectly, then switched back to the first ammo and had no problems since. when it comes to troubleshooting (no pun intended) always start with the most basic, simple and less costly possible solutions.
(Had a '67 Galaxie which had electrical problems, and after buying a new alt and battery, it turned out to be the $14 voltage regulator.)

 

[ArchStanton]

occam's razor my friend. thanks. now at least I know I have to remove the handguard to see the gas block.

 

[JonathanE]

ArchStanton,
By no means am I the most knowledgeable here, but have you removed the bolt from the bolt carrier and made sure the gas key is properly staked and the gas rings are set so their gaps aren't lined up? If it was one of these, it would be a simple fix, and save you messing with the gas block.
Brownell's online has a great series of videos for assembling your AR... these could be helpful in learning how these parts work together.

 

[Mot45acp]

When you fire the last round the mag, does the bolt lock back?

 

[MistWolf]

First, your AR is a rifle, firearm or weapon. It's not a platform no matter what the interweb pundits claim. Platforms are what weapons are mounted to. Platforms include aircraft, turrets, tripods and the like.

Second, it's possible there is nothing at all wrong with your AR. When 223 is fired in a 5.56 chamber, it doesn't make full pressure and may cause a failure to feed. What leads me to believe this is the fact your rifle ran fine when good 5.56 ammo was tried.

Third, it is possible your rifle has a gas leak some place. One notorious source of gas leaks is the gas key. If the bolts are not correctly torqued, it's possible gas will leak from between the key and the carrier. It's also advisable to check to see if the key is properly staked.
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=6993
View attachment 635821

Since the rifle is new, it's unlikely the gas rings are bad. The gas rings are found on the tail piece of the bolt.
View attachment 635822

It's also possible the gas block leaks. If it's a very minor leak, it will seal itself with carbon build up

This is a link to a sticky that lists things you should look at on your AR http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=79448

M4carbine.com is a good source of information. Use the orange search button at the top and do some research.

Fourth, your buffer may be too heavy and your spring too stiff. If your AR has the right size gas port, the buffer should either be a carbine weight or an H weight. You can tell by looking at the face of the buffer. If it's not marked, it should be a carbine weight. If it has an "H" it's an H weight. If it's marked "H2" it may be too heavy. Replace it with a carbine or H buffer and try that

Remove any grease form your BCG and simply get it wet with oil. Synthetic motor oil will work good for a start

After inspecting your rifle you don't find anything wrong and it runs good with the 5.56 ammo, your answer is that your rifle does not like the 223 ammo

 

[brian923]

Lock the bolt back and leave it until you go out shooting. This will "help" compress the recoil spring just a bit. It may or may not help, but it wont hurt anything to try it. Other than that, Its a gas issue. Be it in the gas system or the ammo. But pmc is known to work good or not at all. Just shoot good qualIty ammo and youll be good to go! Thats a nIce lookIng rIfle you have there. Does the barrel specIfIcaly say 5.56 on It? It wIll be etched In near the front of the rIfle on the bottom of the barrel.

 

[Taurus 617 CCW]

Over the years I have pounded my head against a wall trying to diagnose gas leak problems on AR's. They can be very frustrating and difficult to find.

would it be evident after only firing 100 or so rounds through the rifle?

I have found gas leaks in as little as 20 rounds on some bolts. You will see heavy carbon build in the pocket between the gas key and carrier on the base of the key. This is located at the front of the key bottom.

Your bolt looks like it has good staking so you should be able to rule that out.

 

[helotaxi]

Does the barrel specIfIcaly say 5.56 on It? It maybe etched In near the front of the rIfle on the bottom of the barrel.

Not all barrel makers put the cartridge marking in the same place. Some have it back near the chamber, some just aft of the gas block.

Most all of the possibilities for the problem have been covered, but I'll reiterate the possible need to break it in. Yes, the rifle will cycle smoother after it has a couple hundred round through it, but the reason that it cycles smoother is that machining imperfections get worn smooth on the interface parts and any burrs in the locking lugs also get worn in. This leads to less drag on the bolt when cycling and less force required to fully cycle the bolt. Likewise it will work in the buffer spring a bit and make it slightly weaker. Leaving the spring compressed will not do this. Spring are broken in by repeated compression and extension, not prolonged compression.

 

[WinThePennant]

Have you tried switching out BCGs? That will tell you RIGHT NOW if it's a problem with the BCG. And, since you are new at this, this will be the EASIEST way to diagnose if you have a BCG problem.

Use your Dad's BCG in your rifle. If it works great, then it's your BCG. If not, then it's something else.

Good luck!