Break-In for Tight Semi's (Kahr PM9) ?

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Ak Guy

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What do you recommend for break-in for semi-autos that are extra tight? I'm waiting on my new Kahr PM9, and everyone seems to say they are extra tight and need a few hundred rnds to get broke in and running right. Is it best to clean and de-grease slide & barrel and let them wear themselves in pronto; or should I lube as normal, and just shoot away?

>>>>>>>>> Your opinions please <<<<<<<<<<
 
I always clean/lube any gun(new or used) I buy before I shoot it. Kahr says a 200rd break in is needed before carrying. It's a good idea to do that with any gun you carry just to make sure it functions properly and to get used to its controls/how it feels.
 
I second the 200 round break in. I've actually read complaints from people who think it's unreasonable to have to fire 200 rounds to break in a auto pistol. I always thought it was pretty common knowledge to fire atleast 200 rounds through a semi auto before you considered it reliable.

Hell my 1911 took 500 rounds before it started working perfectly.
 
Lube Chart

There is a lube chart posted at Kahrtalk.com and the Kahr Club at Glocktalk.com.

You have to join to see it at Kahrtalk though...not at Glocktalk: http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=111

After lubing, I removed the mag, put on some work gloves, and racked the slide a couple of hundred times before firing a shot.
The more racking you can do, the less "break in" ammo needed.
 
My Kahr PM-9 has been totally reliable from day one. In addition I have found it to be easilly controllable and surprisingly accurate.
 
After lubing, I removed the mag, put on some work gloves, and racked the slide a couple of hundred times before firing a shot.
The more racking you can do, the less "break in" ammo needed.

Couldn't you just leave the slide open on the slide stop for a while instead of doing this?
 
Quote:
After lubing, I removed the mag, put on some work gloves, and racked the slide a couple of hundred times before firing a shot.
The more racking you can do, the less "break in" ammo needed.

Quote:
Couldn't you just leave the slide open on the slide stop for a while instead of doing this?

I would agree. Racking the slide a couple hundred times sounds like a waste of time to me.

IMHO, when you get your new gun;
* Read the manual
* Clean the gun
* Lube properly
*Shoot the gun
*Enjoy the gun
 
"Couldn't you just leave the slide open "

That won't polish the slide to frame fit; along with assorted other moving parts that need to rub on each other to smooth down the rough spots. I know, everything already looks perfectly smooth. It's not.

John
 
If it doesn't work 100% right out of the box then it should never have been stuck in a box and shipped out. I still can't believe how many people buy into this idea. It's not a small block Chevy. It's a handgun.
 
Couldn't you just leave the slide open on the slide stop for a while instead of doing this?
leaving the slide locked back would not have the same effect as racking the slide as it does nothing to help the parts seat and burnish against each other

I would agree. Racking the slide a couple hundred times sounds like a waste of time to me
it would not be as much fun as shooting the gun that many times, but it would be a bit cheaper...plus you can do it at home before you go shooting
 
Go over to the Kahr sponsored forum where break-in of new Kahrs is discussed at length.

Here is a place to start:

http://kahrtalk.com/kahr-tech/1521-p...-new-kahr.html

with how much a Kahr costs, it is ridiculous to have to do what they talk about here. a quick wipe down and lube should be all that's required.

i understand the fluff & buff with kel-tecs, as they're sold at dirt cheap prices... but kahr's are not.
 
...

As mentioned, inspect, clean, fresh lube/oil as some guns have tight chambers and IF other owners have been down this NIB break-in method, then I would heed their advise/experience and shoot just FMJ (good, new ammo) that you can depend on being within spec's and shoot the first 200 rounds with such ammo in FMJ.. to get things to seat/break-in, that are tight.

Then, after it has proven 100%, re-clean her and get a few boxes of JHP's, same weight or whatever others have had best results with and give her a box/20 round test of pure JHP's.. If 100% with those 20, then she's good to go IMHO

Just make sure your feed ramp is clean, no oil, dry a/o you can get some Flitz gun polish and polish it, by hand with a Q-tip, up and down strokes only and same with the chamber and exterior breach face.. can't hurt, only will make action smoother.

Enjoy,


Ls
 
with how much a Kahr costs, it is ridiculous to have to do what they talk about here. a quick wipe down and lube should be all that's required.
A gun is a machine and every machine can benefit from a bit of break-in. My Owner's Guide in my car refers to a 600 mile break-in period. While nothing special needs to be done, they suggest not driving at the same speed for sustained periods so that parts get broken in for different speeds.

In a larger gun, it may not take as long to break it in because the tolerances and mating of parts to each other is not so critical. When you start talking about a short barrel, everything needs to be just right.

If someone disagrees with a manufacturer's policy on this, then by all means buy something else.
 
I took my LCP out of the box, did a wipedown, lubed it, and started blasting away. Zero issues... and it's a hell of a lot smaller than any Kahr. Did the same with my PT-709, about the same size as a PM-9, zero issues.

My glock? I literally took it out of the box, loaded up the mags, and went to the range. Zero issues.

Now, I don't own a Kahr, but I think all that extra work to make a new, not budget priced gun work is ridiculous. Then again, my buddy carries a PM40, and all he did was a quick clean and lube before firing his, and he's never had an issue.
 
posted by harmon rabb
with how much a Kahr costs, it is ridiculous to have to do what they talk about here. a quick wipe down and lube should be all that's required.

i understand the fluff & buff with kel-tecs, as they're sold at dirt cheap prices... but kahr's are not.

Now, I don't own a Kahr, but I think all that extra work to make a new, not budget priced gun work is ridiculous

then you shouldn't look at any of the high end 1911s either ;)

a more tightly fitted gun will be more reliable after having it's parts mated through being worked together (read Bill Wilson's book on the 1911)...loose guns will wear less evenly. how important this is depends on what you expect from a gun and how hard you plan to use it
 
Actually, I would expect a high end 1911, of all things, to be delivered ready to go. With the price you pay for, say, a Baer, I would expect a smith there to have ensured the thing is ready to remove the box and begin blasting.

Break in period to wear in the components together? Sure. But need to clean and lube the gun? Heck no.
 
I still can't understand the comments of folks who object to the break-in period of their firearms.
I consider it a chance to become familiar with the workings and operation of my firearm. I use the time to disassemble it and do a complete inspection of the components and to smooth out any burrs or rough surfaces. I take a hard arkansas stone and hone all corners and sliding surfaces. I don't press hard, about like shaving with a razor. When I'm done with that I do a real detailed cleaning. Now its ready for the range.

The range time is needed for all components to "marry" together under the forces imposed by firing the firearm. Consider it the time you would spend on a race car to prep it for the race.

I'm also sure, that if the manufacturers were to do the detailed hand work needed to eliminate the break-in; everyone would scream about how costly the firearm had become.
 
Actually, I would expect a high end 1911, of all things, to be delivered ready to go
...But need to clean and lube the gun? Heck no.
there are expectations and then there is reality...not that they won't work out of the box. for maximum protection of your investment, they really should be cleaned and relubed

i was talking of high end custom guns, but it also applies to high end production guns like the Baer, Brown and Wilson too
 
I'm glad some else said it.
200 rounds to assure reliability, not 200 rounds to make it work. Folks are getting a sales job here. Tight tolerances does not mean parts that don't fit.
 
I'm glad some else said it.
200 rounds to assure reliability, not 200 rounds to make it work. Folks are getting a sales job here. Tight tolerances does not mean parts that don't fit.
Thank you, JK. I guess I should be getting used to it by now, but I'm still constantly amazed by the knee-jerk reactions many people tend to have on web forums and then how vociferously they defend those positions. Do they act this same way in real life?

Anyway ... I happen to be a Kahr owner ... a Beretta owner ... a Springfield owner ... a Kel-Tec owner ... you get the picture. Good guns work out of the box and get better with use.

My Kahr (a CW40), for instance, "worked" out of the box. I warmed it up with about 200 rounds of reloaded ammunition. As it "warmed up," I could feel the slide moving more freely and the trigger becoming easier to pull. Did that mean it didn't work out of the box? Certainly not! Within the first 50 rounds, I managed to shoot a 4" grouping at 15 yards.

I challenge anyone to find any brand new semi-automatic handgun that works as smoothly right out of the box as it does after it's had 1000 rounds run through it. Demonstrate said results, please.
 
My Sig X-5 TAC TB was pretty smooth out of the box. I haven't noticed it getting too much smoother. But that's part of what $1400 buys.
 
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