browning auto-5

[mooseye]

The S/N shows to be a 1948 model 12ga. Gun is in fair condition and action works great.
The problem is that it will not eject spent plastic shells. The shell catches on the opening of the housing at the crimped end. It takes very little effort with a fingernail to remove. Its as if the uncrimped hull is a little to long to clear the receiver.
Is there a fix for this or a different type of shell?
I have changed the configuration of the spring and collars every way they can be with no change. I have not tried paper hulls.

 

[RNB65]

It sounds like the bolt isn't fully retracting during firing and the shell is catching at the front of the ejection port. Take the bolt out and see if there is any garbage inside the receiver that would block the bolt. Make sure the rails are clean and smooth.

 

[Regolith]

Also, make absolutely sure your not shooting shells that are longer than the gun is made for. I believe that that model is not made for shells that are longer than 2 3/4". This means that 3" and 3 1/2" shells will NOT eject, because the uncrimped shell will be too long to make it out of the ejection port. It is also dangerous to shoot longer shells out of the gun, as they cause higher pressure than the gun was made for and it may blow up in your face.

 

[Jim K]

Also, most Auto 5's made for sale in Europe use 2 9/16" (6.5cm) shells. Even a 2 3/4" (7.0cm) shell won't work in those.

Jim

 

[mooseye]

The shells are the 2 3/4" that the barrel is stamped for. I don't know how to remove the bolt. Thats not covered in the manual. The bolt does lock back on firing.

 

[Regolith]

Have you tried running a different brand of ammo through it? If the bolt locks back, it sounds like its opening up fully. Maybe the gun simply doesn't like that type of ammo.

 

[mooseye]

no, I only fired it about 10 times with the same shells. I didn't realize that could make a difference. I have never owned an auto. Next chance I get I will try some different shells. The ones I have are at least 20 years old. But they fired fine other than not ejecting.

 

[Regolith]

moose......due to a variation in the tolerances designed into the firearm, some guns can be really picky about what type of ammunition you put through it. If the uncrimped cases that your firing through it are a little bit longer than they should be and your ejection port is a little bit smaller than it should be, that may be causing the problem. Also the case material could cause issues - I bought some Winchester shotgun shells a while back that simply wouldn't run cleanly through anything I put them in, and it was due to a new plastic hull that seemed to be thicker and more prone to catch in the barrel than any other shells I have tried.

 

[10X]

You probably have already done this, but I will mention it. Have you changed the friction ring for the ammo you are using. The bronze friction ring is to be low (butted up against the receiver) on the mag tube for low brass and high on the mag tube (between the end of the recoil spring and sliding ring (correct name?) for high brass.

I had a problem like that once when I tried to shoot low brass and still had the friction ring set for high brass.

Not much effort to try this.

The next thing I would look at is the ejector to see if it is in OK shape.

 

[mooseye]

yes, I did try moving the rings with no change in ejection.
I guess I will try some higher power shells.

 

[308win]

If your friction rings are positioned correctly try some good light weight gun oil just behind the upper friction ring. (out of the Browning manual.

 

[mooseye]

the last thing I did to the friction ring was oil it in the lowest power position. The shells are winchester #6's and 8's,
1oz shot 3 1/4 dr pwdr.

 

[308win]

Go to page 12 of the manual: make sure you have enough oil, make sure your tube is clean and free of dried grease, oil, etc., check clearance of your forearm.

 

[Dave McCracken]

Try different ammo, a flagon of mead says it's the Winchester shells.

Again.

 

[mooseye]

Ok, I think I discovered the problem.
While measuring the ejection/loading port, I noticed that the barrel was showing back past the end of the port. I had screwed the tube cap on as far as it goes and it forced the barrel to far back. This cap has locking notches so that it does not have to bottom out to stay in place. I just screwed it off till the barrel is flush.
I can't wait to try it tommorow. I have been trying to figure this out for a while. The forarm is seated in the grove and the barrel is flush with the port. This make a good sixteenth inch difference in the opening.

 

[mswestfall]

mooseye

I'm having a little trouble with your "fix". For the bbl to protrude into the chamber I BELIEVE the forend has to be too short. It could be because the forend was replaced, is warn, cracked or the washer between the forend and the cap screw could be missing. Check to see if there is wear at either end of the forend.

How far can you get the base of the bbl to protrude into the chamber? Does the base of the forend expand as it slides past the gun's action?

The A5 is one great shotgun. It is one of the greatest advancements in gun design.

 

[mooseye]

Ok, the action and the forend have the same s/n.
I tried it out Sat. and it fired like a new one. No hanging hulls. I plan on shooting it some more and run the cap down to the point of hang-up then back it off one or two clicks.
I don't think there are any parts missing. Right now the forend will move about 1/32 inch with some force down on it.

 

[mooseye]

I probably won't use the gun much if any, I just like for things to work correctly. Maybe I will leave the nut tight, that way I don't have to pick up the hulls, and won't risk splitting the forend.
Thanks to everyone for you time and input. I have learnd alot about the weapon, and feel better able to understand it.

 

[English Jay]

Not sure about that Mooseye,
The end of the barrel always seems to shows at the edge of the ejector port on A-5's
Have a look at the photo's of A-5's on Cabelas gun library, you can see a 1/16" to 3/32" on all of them.
Mines the same.
I guess it could be the forends shrinking over time, but if it caused a problem, then being so common it would be well documented.

If you have the forend loose the barrel recoil will probably split it.

I'd guess it's the shells, not all 2 3/4" shells are the same length!
They can vary between 65mm (2 9/16") & 70mm (2 3/4") and still be labeled 2 3/4".
You may find a 'shorter' brand will work fine.
Also, if they are only 1oz, 3 1/4dr & 20 years old -effectivly a light target load, they may not be enough to cycle the action anyway?

Jay

 

[mooseye]

Well, I took the gun out yesterday and with the cap tight if fired perfectly. Go figure. I guess it just needed to be used to loosen things up.