GW Starr:
1 - 50in wide and the work surface will be between 28-30in (I'm 6' 2")
Think about body leverage as you decide on height....30" top, means 39-5/8" high press mount, using the Inline product.....test set your press that high, mount your most reloaded caliber's sizer, mount a case, and stroke the handle. When a case starts into a die, the handle will be "so high". That's the point where you bear down.....and you want body leverage at that point to make it least tireing to stroke all the way into the sizer. For me that height is just above my hips @ standing.
2 - I will be standing and use a Dillon 550
3 - I planned to glue two sheets of 3/4 ply together and finish the top. I might trim it with something hard, but I can live without that. I would pocket screw it from below to attach it.
That would work, but I like a hardwood face trim 3/4"x 1-5/8" that sticks up just enough to prevent cases and things from rolling off the top....I'm old school....I just used trim screws and matching color putty.
4/5 - I planned to do frameless lowers, just cabinets, no drawers, two doors. I deprime on a Lee Challenger and run the tube into the bench to an old nut jar screwed to the underside of the work surface (on the right side of the bench since that's where the press is). On the left side, I plan to keep my shop vac in the back of the top shelf with the hose running up through the work surface as well. I plan to store loaded ammo in the right cabinet. Both lower doors will have locks.
I see from your pictures that this isn't the first cabinet you've built....and you have experience with European style boxes and hardware.....no need to elaborate further on that. Carry on.
I also plan to build uppers 12in deep, 50in wide again, hung on the wall with a french cleat, and screwed into the studs. Those will be broken into three cabinets with a lockable door on the left most to store powder and primers. The right two will have sliding doors since they will be behind the press and space is limited. Tools and nick knacks will go in there.
You can do that with cleats...or you can build with a 3/4" back....clean interior....more expensive, yes, but it's like have the whole back as a cleat and you can screw it to the wall even more than one screw per stud, up and down.....but cleats work fine unless you plan to store lots of heavy stuff.....bullets come to mind.
6 - I do have an Inline Fabrication mount, so it sounds like I should be good from what you're saying. I considered framing in the top of the right lower cabinet, bolting that to the wall, screwing it into the carcass, and then bolting the press stand through the long sides again. Am I correct in that would be overkill based on my plans? I'll have lots of leftover 2x4s when I disassemble my current bench, so materiel cost is not an issue.
Attached is the router table/cabinet I built to attach to my table saw. Learned a number of lessons about hinges and spacing building it. I feel this bench project will be easier since I'm building simpler carcasses. I'm also simplifying the design with pocket screws instead of rabbits and dadoes. The only dadoes I plan to cut are for the shelf in the ammo storage cabinet. I tallied up how much my ammo would weigh if I loaded up every ammo box I have. Answer is 336.75lbs which probably puts me in the amateur category, but I only reload for Bullseye and service rifle. I designed the lowers to be the right width so I can store my 4 loads side by side for easy access: Service Pistol, Wad gun, revolver, and 223.
I don't foresee my reloading expanding much in the future, maybe I'll add 308 for shooting long range since we own a 40X that we have shot that far, but only with factory ammo thus far. I want to do this space right since it will be all I have for a few years. We are planning (see dreaming) about the house we will buy in about 5 years which will have significantly more space. A reloading room is part of that plan, likely in a basement away from prying eyes and inquisitive fingers.
All input is greatly appreciated. Thank you everyone!