Reloading Cabinets/Bench Build

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Soupy44

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I started another threat asking for advice on this project a week or three ago. I spent a week brainstorming, designing, measuring the size of my ammo boxes, powder bottles, boxes of bullets, and door opening to make sure this thing could be carried from the garage to the man cave aka soon to be guest room and man cave.

Putting thoughts down on paper:
IMG_20200101_003849002.jpg

Final plans (in a near fatal case of measure twice, cut once, good thing I noticed my current bench is 36 1/2in tall, not the 30in I thought!):
IMG_20200101_003822421.jpg

The shelves and top pieces are all put in with 1/4" rabbits and dadoes. THAT was a learning experience. First, I completely blew past checking the dado width with a scrap piece of wood. I cut every single rabbit and dado before figuring it out. Got lucky and was able to save that little mistake.

Getting consistent dado and rabbit depths on my table saw will take some practice. I'll be trying to cut them with my plunge router next time. I hear setting the depth is way easier, but getting them perfectly aligned on multiple pieces is a little more difficult.

And here are the results of today's build:
IMG_20200101_003744927.jpg IMG_20200101_003734011.jpg

It ended up 47 3/4in wide, 24in deep, 34in tall. You can see some kiddo toys invading the garage already!

There is a little bit of a bow in the right side due to the rabbit/dado depths. The center upright piece having rabbits on both side of the top probably was a mistake in design. I went with dados and rabbits to increase the rigidity of the whole unit. That glue up was fun. The pocket holes you see go through the 1/4in of material in the middle into the other board. I will be using all pocket holes for the upper cabinets of this build. Gluing this up was a challenge!

The next step is cutting rabbits and a central dado in the back panel piece. That should make this solid as a rock, though that bow in the right side will be interesting to adjust a rabbit for. I'll have to go get more ply for doors.

For a top, I'm looking at two sheets of 3/4 ply, primed, then coated with white tinted epoxy. Should make for a very well lit work surface.

Then I'll need to buy pizza for a friend or three to move everything upstairs!
 
Reminds me of when I built some shelves for the room over the garage. I measured the doors, but didn’t take into account the length and having to make the turn to go up the stairs. I ended up going through an upstairs window with it - not an easy task, it barely fit.

Good luck with your build!
 
There are all sorts of pitfalls, I made a tall wardrobe for a low ceilinged room.
Measured carefully but forgot that i had to raise it up, the diagonal of the side was longer than the room was high.
Had to break it apart and glue it back together standing up.
 
I like the plans. A lot of times I just “wing it” for stuff that doesn’t matter and cover it up as I go.

like the truss structure in my last bench that didn’t quite work out. I just came in from both sides and welded a section of pipe in the center where the math didn’t work out. That way it looks like a feature vs a f up.

3597A555-CC8F-49BF-83A7-A0929CE62030.jpeg
 
I used some salvaged flush fit maple flooring on the top of my bench. Made for a very solid surface for working on. Really absorbs shock and torsion forces and spreads them over the surface and is a solid base for attaching hardware. Cut and abrasion resistant, and the maple makes a nice natural color. I finished with several coats of BLO for a matte finish that won't absorb oils and cleans easily. I like solid wood better than plywood in an application where a press will be attached and subject to repeated stress over a small area.
 
A tip from the "been-there-done-that" master. Stain the top in a very dark color and top with an extremely shiny finish. That way, you will not be able to find those pesky small dark parts and the glare from the finish will require you to wear sunglasses.

No need to thank me.
 
That’s fine looking work soupy44!

I wound up making a shallow shelf (to help keep me from stacking a bunch of stuff in front) with a pound of what I have, an an assortment of bullets, so all it takes is a glance to see what I have vs digging around in the powder cabinet where I bulk store powders.

97C130EB-DB78-4585-B57B-819D00018AEC.jpeg
 
FINALLY almost done! Got the upper cabinet up, then I have no idea what I was thinking when I measured for the door widths. Off by a total of 1.5in...the adjustment in the hinges makes the picture below look good at least. I also have to convince my son that buying wood and making doors quickly before it warps is key, but my 16mo old son does not listen to reason!

Quite happy to have things more organized and put away. Putting the child magnetic locks on the upper cabinets since the worst things up there are cleaning supplies on the top shelf. Now to hide some wires, move an outlet from behind the cabinet to under the light switch, and rebuild the upper doors

Thanks to everyone who gave input and advice!

IMG_20200223_212847466.jpg
 
There is a little bit of a bow in the right side due to the rabbit/dado depths. The center upright piece having rabbits on both side of the top probably was a mistake in design. I went with dados and rabbits to increase the rigidity of the whole unit. That glue up was fun. The pocket holes you see go through the 1/4in of material in the middle into the other board. I will be using all pocket holes for the upper cabinets of this build. Gluing this up was a challenge!

My father always said "the sign of a good carpenter is a carpenter that can cover up his mistakes". I have practiced this many times.

I built this TV cabinet out of clear PA red oak for my wife while she was in Pa visiting her family,
tv stand final 2.jpg
You know what? She just doesn't need to know.

I would sooner have the stronger joints than worry about a little cosmetics.

You did good.
 
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I used some salvaged flush fit maple flooring on the top of my bench. Made for a very solid surface for working on. Really absorbs shock and torsion forces and spreads them over the surface and is a solid base for attaching hardware. Cut and abrasion resistant, and the maple makes a nice natural color. I finished with several coats of BLO for a matte finish that won't absorb oils and cleans easily. I like solid wood better than plywood in an application where a press will be attached and subject to repeated stress over a small area.
Now here we have a person that takes the term hand loading to a new level. That is one impressive array of presses. What’s the big red ones up and lower center left.
 
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