Bullet Casting Help?

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G11354

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Im considering casting bullets in .44 Mag but have no experience. Can anyone fill me in on required equipment?

Specifically gas checks, bullet lube, what lead I need, bullet resizing and so on.

Also, does the use of lead bullets pose any issues or unusual wear on the firearm?
 
I don't cast for 44 magnum, but I'm sure there are plenty of folks who can help you with the intricacies of the cartridge at CastBoolits.com

Now, you're going to need to slug your barrel to find out what diameter bullet you need to cast (at least .001 over your bore diameter).
You're going to need a melting pot, I like my lee 10lb bottom pour.
I recommend starting out with Lee tumble lube molds, because it's the most inexpensive way to start casting and lubing without extra equipment like lubrisizers.
44 magnum probably needs gas checks which you can apply using the lee push through sizers, after lubing your bullets up.

You're going to need to do a lot of reading before diving into casting, and there's a lot of great folks at Cast Boolits with a ton of knowledge. Not to disparage our own community, but theirs specializes in casting and shooting lead.

Edit: you aren't doing any unusual wear on the firearm shooting lead, you're actually doing LESS by shooting lead, which is much softer than FMJ's. Good luck trying to wear out a barrel with lead..
 
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I agree with Dr.Zubrato, before you buy ANYTHING, slug your barrel.
If that term doesn't mean anything to you, back up one step & get a manual.
Lyman's "Cast Bullet handbook" 4th edition, is an excellent resource.
Very easy to read & extrememly informative.

The 3rd edition would work too, but I like the 4th much better.
 
Get your hands on a copy of the Lyman manual, 3rd is great, 4th is almost as good and a lot easier to find.
The Lyman 429244 is an excellent bullet.
 
All you really need is a pot, heat source ladle and mold. Alox lube is the easiest to use.

I use Hi-Tek coating myself (no need for gas checks) and with most of my molds I also have to do a final sizing on the bullets. Lee has some they say do not require sizing but I don't have any of them.
 
To meheaveys list I would add good leather gloves, some sort of a facemask/other body protection.

A good space to cast where tinsel isn't going to annoy you or your better half, on a solid flame resistant surface with good ventilation is also key.
 
As Mr. Morris stated, basically all you need is a heat source, something safe to melt lead in (no aluminum), a mold, and a method of getting the lead into the mold. My suggestion would be to get a couple texts and check out the entire process (as noted above Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook 3rd Edition if you can find one, but 4th will do). another good read is; http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm, it covers just about anything you'd ask about. Castboolits.com http://castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php is a forum dedicated to all things concerning lead bullets, from alloys, to methods, equipment, powders, lube and coatings (and prolly more than I can think of right now).

When you ask questions on a forum, you get a whole lot of opinions, and a lot of them you don't need. So, you'll have to filter out those that say that "___ is the only way/tool/product to use", and use common sense...
 
I like Lyman's 429421 bullet for 44 magnum. It's a plain base bullet that I cast in Lyman alloy #2, which works well even in my Marlin .44 magnum rifle.

Before you get started, I think I'd suggest seriously investigating how much lead you can actually accomulate before actually investing in equipment. Years ago, it was easy to just walk into tire garages and walk out with buckets of wheelweights for free. The switchover to lead-free wheelweights started early in California, but is spreading to other states now.

I stocked up early, and have about 500lbs of lead in the garage, but almost all new WW are zinc and useless for casting. You don't want to melt zinc into your alloy because it will ruin that batch of lead. The good news though is that zinc's melting point is >800F, so if your alloy is <750F it will just float on top.

My favorate recipe is 19lbs of wheelweight lead with 1lb of lead-free tin plumbing solder or culinary pewter. That's my recipe for my sort-of #2 alloy. I make a premium lube out of 50:50 beeswax and moly-lithium axle grease.

On equipment, if you are serious, buy RCBS and Lyman. Lee is junk and I've thrown out every single peice of Lee equiment I've ever bought. Lee carbide dies though are OK.

Be warned though that casting becomes addicting, and you'll just have to say goodbye to the family because you'll spend all your time in the garage. You will also buy every new toy to make casting better/faster/cheaper/ect.

Good luck!
 
Im considering casting bullets in .44 Mag but have no experience. Can anyone fill me in on required equipment?

Specifically gas checks, bullet lube, what lead I need, bullet resizing and so on.

Also, does the use of lead bullets pose any issues or unusual wear on the firearm?

Required equipment:

Both reloading and casting books. For casting, I recommend the Lyman 49th edition. Read the entire thing before you start. You will save yourself a lot of time and money.

You will need Some kind of casting pot and thermometer. I prefer a bottom pour pot but that is preference. I have owned the cheap lee pot and like it. Many folks don't use a thermometer but, if bullets are cast at varying temps, they will vary in weight and even slightly in size. Use a thermometer.

You will need molds. Once again, I use lee molds and like them. Others disagree but mine have served me well. Read the instructions on the molds and prepare them properly before casting. Once again, you will save yourself a lot of headaches if they are prepared properly.

As far as bullet lube, I have not had great luck with lee alox. I get a lot of leading with it. Another lube that is better is 45/45/10 which is 45% alox, 45% wood wax and 10% mineral spirits for thinning. You can make it yourself or just buy it pre-mixed. I use it on 44 sometimes but I prefer to powder coat mine which is an entirely different topic. You can get all kinds of info about that here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=753510. I have never used gas checks with 44. I have never found them necessary.

Sizing dies are another debated issue. As stated, SLUG YOUR BARREL! Then make sure your bullets are at least .001 larger than your barrel. A lot of casters do not size but I do. It eliminates things like bulged rounds that won't fit in the cylinder etc. I use the lee push through dies and they work just fine.

I am a big proponent of safety gear. I know many folks here don't worry much about lead and, most never have any issues with it but I do. My lead levels are consistently on the high side. Because of this I have started wearing a lead/asbestos mask: http://www.pksafety.com/asledu.html. Either 2091 or 2097 filters will protect against fumes and dust. I also wear latex gloves when handling lead and leather gloves when it is hot. Safety glasses are a no brainer and I even bought a cheap leather smock to protect my clothes from splatter.


does the use of lead bullets pose any issues or unusual wear on the firearm?

No. In fact lead is substantially softer than copper and produces far LESS wear on a barrel than copper. One caveat is leading. If your bullets are improperly sized, improperly lubed or driven to hard, they will leave lead deposits on the barrel that will destroy accuracy and can be a challenge to remove. I have leaded many barrels in my casting exploits. It isn't the end of the world and you will learn pretty quick what you can and can't do.

Hope this helps:)
 
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Get the Lyman 49th edition Cast Bullets load data book. The first part of the book is how to cast, do's and don't. The rest of the book is load data for a lot of different lead bullets. Also, if you see leading in your barrel, don't spend hours trying to scrub it out. Just shoot some plated or jacketed bullets. They will blow the leading out the muzzle.
 
In fact lead is substantially softer that copper and produces far LESS wear on a barrel than copper. One caveat is leading. If your bullets are improperly sized, improperly lubed or driven to hard, they will leave lead deposits on the barrel

Very true.
I'll add that driving bullets too slowly can cause leading as well, depending on your hardness. Hard bullets and low velocities are a recipe for a leaded barrel.
 
On a revolver you need to slug the forcing cone, not the barrel.

Size is king, it is impossible to over come leading if your bullet does not fit the gun. But if it does, with minimal effort you can shoot the daylights out of it and not have any issue with leading.

Straight clip on WW will work just fine for 44magnum.

The Lyman books are an excellent source of information.

The castboolits.gunloads.com web site is also an excellent source of info and a great place to read up on slugging your forcing cones.

Lee molds and the push through sizing die are a great way to get your feet wet, your talking about $40.00 give or take a few. While a Lyman or RCBS mold is going to cost 70+ and you will still have to buy handles and a sizing die.
The Lee push through die will screw right into the single stage mounted on your bench without any issues.

If you do go with a Lee set up, look for the tumble lube molds they will be the easiest to work with, unless you buy a Lyman or other sizing lubing press.
 
Seems to be a bit of confusion. The Lyman 49th is an all around reloading manual with good information on reloading cast and jacketed bullets. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 3rd or 4th Editions, deals with cast lead bullets only. Excellent "How To" and load data for lead bullets...

My first cast bullet was a Lee 240 gr. T/L SWC. I had a Coleman stove, a Lee ladle, a Lee mold, a 2 qt. stainless steel pot. I had access to wheel weights and scrap lead. I lubed with alox and a couple other dip/coating lubes. I read everything I could on bullet casting (this was pre-web so I was "old school" and read books! :eek:). I cast these for 4 of my .44 Magnums and soon built up my equipment inventory. Next purchase was a bottom pour and molds multiplied. I began sizing with Lee push through sizers and either alox, 45-45-10, pan lubing or Powder Coat. I got a thermometer for Christmas one year, but I was making good bullets for a few years prior to checking my melt temp., so I think I left it in a drawer someplace...

So, you can get started without a lot of $$$ equipment, or you could drop 3 months rent on start-up stuff. But, I'd suggest the books first...
 
Seems to be a bit of confusion. The Lyman 49th is an all around reloading manual with good information on reloading cast and jacketed bullets. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 3rd or 4th Editions, deals with cast lead bullets only. Excellent "How To" and load data for lead bullets...

Yep. sorry about that. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 4th edition is the one I used to get started. I have the lyman 49th as well and it is a great reloading manual. Thanks for clarifying.
 
I recently started casting myself (9mm, not .44 mag) and on a seriousy low budget.

I have a stainless steel pot (old dog water dish) to hold the melted lead.
Bought a Black and Decker 1000W single electric burner.
Small ladle I found at Goodwill.
Lee 6 cavity mold (thanks to the PIF thread).
Bullet sizer.
Welding gloves, face shield.
Ventilation. Ventilation. Ventilation.


Take your time. Don't rush.
 
My suggestion would be if you starting out, dont go right to the most expensive setup like a magma caster.

Get a book like Lyman's Bullet Casting Handbook. They discuss every aspect and talk about how to select equipment and molds.

Most of us probably got into this to save money but it never turns out that way! I think I have spent more on casting equipment than my reloading equipment! lol.
 
My suggestion would be if you starting out, dont go right to the most expensive setup like a magma caster.

I agree. I would not have started with the machine I built if it was not for the fact that I built the 60# pot already. It all started when I was given 9 five gallon buckets of wheel weights, so I made a pot to turn them into ingots. After it worked for that purpose, And was given another melter for ingot making, I cut the spout off of it (you can still stt the "U" from the spout and I left the trunnions in place and turned it into a bottom pour pot. Once I got that far and everything worked, I just built the rest of the machine.

Back then they were only $600 now your looking at $1000 (still not the most expensive way to go) That is a lot of money to invest only to find out you didn't enjoy casting. I just figured that I would not like it if it was "work". I have fun building "things" just not doing the same thing over and over.
 
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