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Bullet jump in .45ACP Revolvers

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Chainsaw2, Jan 26, 2010.

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  1. Chainsaw2

    Chainsaw2 Member

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    I get bullet jump from recoil when firing .45ACP uncrimped factory ammo in my S&W revolver. The slugs will actually fall out of the cylinder if the pistol is pointed at the floor after a few rounds have been fired.

    Is there a way to solve this problem short of working up a reload with a crimp? I'm in the middle of moving and am not really set up for reloading.

    jim
     
  2. Sidewinder72

    Sidewinder72 Member

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    Just stick the loads you have in and crimp them. Problem solved. It will take no time at all to do several hundred.
     
  3. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    You need more neck tension.

    Either a tighter sizer die, or a smaller diameter expander, or maybe both. A Taper Crimp is not going to fix it. A roll crimp might, but you should not have to, and you have bigger problems than not enough crimp.

    I shoot .45 ACP in a S&W and have no problems with bullet jump, much less the bullets falling out. All I use is a very light taper crimp.
     
  4. Quoheleth

    Quoheleth Member

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    Nope. Better sell off that gun, right now.

    Dibs!

    :neener:

    Q
     
  5. ljnowell

    ljnowell Member

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    He is shooting factory ammo, walkalong. Something is definately not right about it. I have managed to get 45 colt bullets jump out of the case with poor roll crimping and lots of 2400. Never a 45acp though.
     
  6. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    Hmmm. How did I miss that? Oh well. :p

    Dang skippy. Something is wrong with his ammo.
     
  7. memphisjim

    memphisjim Member

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    outa curiosity is it a scandium one?

    i used to have an aluminum revolver in 44 spec that had a restriction of 200grain maxiumum bullet weight for that very reason
    but they wouldnt fall all the way out
     
  8. 243winxb

    243winxb Member

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    :scrutiny:Factory Ammo- +P Lead bullets in lite weight scandium revolver, might do it. But drop out the cylinder when tilted?? lol :D Only shoot up hill, or at high flying geese. lol :D S & W Model 325 Night Guard. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2010
  9. kanook

    kanook Member

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    My Alaskan does the same thing with 300 grain factory. Granted it's 454, but I know what you mean.
     
  10. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Let us know what model S&W it is.
    If it is a steel frame gun, something is bad wrong with the ammo brand you have.

    I've been shooting .45 ACP Smiths since 1962 and have never seen it happen in a steel frame gun.

    rc
     
  11. 243winxb

    243winxb Member

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    AMMUNITION SELECTIONFOR Ti, Sc& PD Series REVOLVERS

    See page 12 of PDF file for ammo test for lite guns. http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson/upload/other/S&W_Revolver_Manual.pdf
     
  12. Chainsaw2

    Chainsaw2 Member

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    Apologies for the lack of information gents. It is a M1917 that uses the half-moon clips that I bought for home defense so I wouldn't have to surrrender a nice gun if I were forced to use it. The first time this bullet jump happened, it was with some Blazer ammo a buddy gave me. It also once happened with some R-P. It used to be a Chilian Navy pistol and is sound but looks a bit rough. In spite of this, the pistol shoots nice 3" groups at 25 yds.

    Do you think I could crimp Winchester white box FMJ loads? I'm worried about over pressure on an old gun like this.

    jim
     
  13. ljnowell

    ljnowell Member

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    I dont think that I would worry that much about pressure from crimping. The real problem comes that there isnt a cannalure on the FMJ bullet in the case. You could put the tightest taper crimp you want, but I think the real problem comes to neck tension. Those particular rounds are not a good combo with a revolver. Look into another brand of ammo, or do some reloading. I have a relative with one of those revolvers and he uses a 200gr LRN with a crimp groove and 255gr lswc with crimp grooves made for 45 colt. He puts a roll crimp on them the same you would with a 45 colt and has no problems. I think he told me he was getting the 255gr bullet to 790's safely. Thats got enough oomph.
     
  14. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    I agree that it is the ammo, not the gun.

    The 1917's worked perfectly with .45 ACP 230 grain GI ammo through two world wars.
    My 625 .45 ACP revolver works perfectly now.
    As I said earlier, I have never had a .45 ACP jump crimp in a revolver in almost 50 years of shooting & reloading for them.

    But perhaps "jump crimp" is the wrong term.

    A taper crimp on an auto pistol cartridge doesn't hold the bullet in place.
    Quality brass and proper neck tension on the bullet is what keeps it in place.

    rc
     
  15. Maj Dad

    Maj Dad Member

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    I have a nice S&W Brazilian Navy 1917/M1937 also, and I have never experienced this, either with factory (GI ball) or reloads of 230 FMJ or lead 200s & 230s, with & without moon clips, and I have shot it quite a bit. Blazer aluminum cased ammo has done some strange things in other pistols but I haven't used it in the 1917. I recommend using ammo other than what caused the problems; if it persists, sell it to me...:D
     
  16. Marlin 45 carbine

    Marlin 45 carbine Member

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    I have a 'shooting times' article from years back on loading .45acp Super that while stateing the 625 S&W will digest these loads doesn't make mention of any caveat about this happening. I haven't loaded any rounds for my 625 yet but have Starline 'super' brass - can anyone say whether this should be a concern?
    I have some 255gr cast slugs that I may load to 'super' data for possible bear country use so how could I place a roll crimp on the slugs?
     
  17. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    You can buy a roll-crimp die for the .45 Auto Rim cartridge that will also roll-crimp .45 ACP..

    rc
     
  18. Chainsaw2

    Chainsaw2 Member

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    Thanks for the help gents!
     
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