Burnishing

[StrawHat]

Okay, in a separate thread I mentioned I burnish the lettering instead of filing it from the replica revolvers I choose to "authenticate".

After posting some confusing posts and nearly stealing the OP thread, I think there is sufficient interest to try a separate thread for this.

Here are a couple of revolvers that have had the markings removed by burnishing.



and



If you look along the side of the barrel you can see where the lettering should appear but does not.

Stamping in the lettering displaces metal from the barrel (or frame) and burnishing merely pushes but whence it came.

And it is said much easier than it is accomplished.

First, a burnishing tool is needed, mine is 1/2" diameter by 14" long with a 3/4" button on one end.



Secure whatever you will be burnishing and grab the tool with one hand at each end, a comfortable distance between your hands.

Now, for the first couple of strokes just rub the rod over the stampings.

As you figure out what you have to do, start applying downward PRESSURE.

It may take a while but you will start to see the metal moving back into the depressions.

After a bit of work, the metal will all be back in place and the area will be rough looking. At this point either a fine cut file followed by emery paper or maybe just the emery paper.

After the emery, polish and finish how you prefer.

Here is a cut off barrel (clone 1860, Pietta) and a burnished Pietta 1860 barrel.



other side



close up



I have a couple more pieces to work on over the summer so if more photos are needed, let me know what you want to see.

This is only one way to do it and I am sure there are others.

I have used the very ends and pushed down as if using a big pencil to get into some areas to remove dents.

You can also inlay precious metal into undercut inlay areas with this idea.

Some of the others who have done this can also jump in with photos and help explain the technique.

Good luck and have fun with it.

 

[JayC]

Thanks for the illustrations and explanation. I went to the link on instrument repair hoping to see pictures of commercially available burnishing tools, but found only contact info. I guess I will need to do further research to find some good websites. As I mentioned in the other thread, I did see a website for a company in India that showed one tool on the home page. I didn't pursue it.

Burnishing is a definitely a step onto another skill plane, and there are other skills I need to work on first!

 

[StrawHat]

JayC,

As much as I can I try to make my own tools.

That rod was from a machinist neighbor who was kind enough to have it hardened for me. Just some part he had in the shop, I don't have a clue what it would be used for.

One time I found a screwdriver with a hardened shaft and used it for a while.

Keep looking, you will be surprised what and where you find things.

Good luck.

 

[Perk]

Have noticed a number of metal salvage shops, around the southern California area. In my experience, these folks generally don't mind selling very small amounts of scrap - even down to a single piece of metal. In fact, most will work with one, in helping to identify the correct type of metal.

Don't presume to know how things are in another's neck of the woods. This info is just offered as another possible tool source.

Thanks for the specifics, on burnishing. Always good to learn more about other methods, as means towards an end. Nice pics, by the way.

 

[zoned10x]

> a machinist neighbor who was kind enough to have it hardened for me

Hardening a custom burnisher would be a good application for Kasenit.
http://tinyurl.com/5842f6

Fwiw, for smaller scale esthetic repairs here is another style burnisher which is used in a Dremel or belt/cable-driven handpiece. It's called a 'margin roller' and sold at jeweler's tool stores.
http://tinyurl.com/6p8q8v

 

[JayC]

zoned10x, your second link shows a tool that looks just like what I saw on that Indian web site when I googled "burnishing." How small is a small job? Is this tool too small to run back and forth across barrel markings? It has the built-in bumps that probably supply striking pressure.

 

[StrawHat]

zoned10x,

How the heck does that thing work?

I can not imagine being able to get enough downward pressure with a Dremel or Foredom tool handle.

Is it just multiple hits of light pressure that does the trick? Like when we used a teaspoon to make a ring out of a half dollar while standing a throttle watch? Tap, tap, tap, tap, you get the picture.

I am very used to hand tools but want to learn more about the power end of the tool world.

 

[zoned10x]

The margin roller is like a micro needle bearing without the outer race. To get an idea of the job size, the roller shown needs a 3/32" collet to chuck it into a handpiece. I've not found larger specimens, yet. The individual rollers do not skate across the metal, but actually do roll over the surface [and need oiling] to move metal around. This small gadget cannot replace Strawhat's rod burnisher which would smooth large areas of stamped print faster and more evenly. It is best for healing a nick in a visible area, or sealing an inlay.

 

[jmaubin]

StrawHat its great info for new guys like me. keep it comming. Oh loved the thought about using a screwdriver.

 

[scrat]

great job straw hat i cant wait to giv this a try

 

[jojosdad]

Strawhat's tool looks a lot like a Chevy pushrod.

 

[alemonkey]

This is kinda off topic, but does Kasenit give you the colors typically associated with case hardening?

Really cool tip, BTW.

 

[scrat]

chevy push rods are round on each end. But i tell you what thats a good idea to use one.

 

[krs]

A technique for anyone who has a lathe:
I've done a form of burnishing in my lathe to reestablish shoulder height of a rifle barrel. To do it I made a toolholder that would hold a roller bearing about 1/2" in diameter that could be used with crossfeed force to put pressure on the barrel under it's shoulder. That worked like a charm and I'd say that using a welded bearing (so it would not roll on it's mounting axle) to put hard pressure against a round surface in the lathe to remove markings from the likes of a round barrel would work as well if not better.

 

[Malamute]

Looks like a 1/2" socket extension would work for this, if the finish was smooth enough. Maybe a 12" extension?



......Or a breaker bar handle?......