J_McLeod
Member
I want to buy a Lee auto disk to increase output on my turret with pistol calibers. Should I get the regular or the pro, and what accessories will I need to make it work best?
Buying a Lee Auto Disk
- Thread starter J_McLeod
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Lost Sheep
Member
Up to you
Thanks for asking our advice.
The autodisk is about the greatest thing since sliced bread for convenience in reloading if you are using the Lee Powder-Through case-mouth belling die. Do make sure you have the swivel adapter for mounting (makes screwing the thing on easier and allows you to position the auto-disk for maximum convenience and least interference). Also, get TWO risers to make sure the autodisk will clear the primer feed device. There is no problem stacking the risers and swivel adapter. They work just fine stacked, and mine don't wobble a bit on my Lee Classic Turret, using the autoindexing.
How many calibers do you load?
How often do you switch calibers (# of rounds loaded per caliber before switching).
Do you keep your dies installed in turret heads?
Would you leave your powder measure installed on the die(s)?
I assume you are using the Lee Turret (though you did not specify). Are you using the autoindexing feature?
The answers to the above questions might make a difference in whether you would like to buy multiple units, leave them permanently set per caliber with your chosen (unchanging) charge weight set.
If you leave them permanently set up, do empty the powder from the hopper each time, but you can leave the auto-disk installed, no problem.
How often you dismount the auto-disks may make a difference to your choice. Likewise, how many autodisks you decide to buy (if you buy multiple ones) may make a difference.
The Pro mounts the powder hopper with nuts and machine screws. The standard uses little screws that screw into the plastic hopper. Strip the threads and you will need a new hopper.
However, if you never remove the hopper, this is unlikely to ever be an issue. If you change charge weights all the time (and don't choose to use multiple autodisks, which some people do), then you may be removing the hopper multiple times.
The Pro comes with the body of the device coated with teflon. The standard doesn't. I don't know what difference it makes.
If you get the standard auto-disk plus the upgrade kit, you get a free (normally $10) adjustable charge bar and then the only thing you lack is the teflon coating. But you now have an extra hopper (one in each style).
The powder hopper on the Pro shuts off with a twist to the hopper body. Of little use if you are not removing the hopper all the time, and even then, who keeps their powder in the hopper? One handloader I know of has accidentally turned off the powder flow, resulting in a bunch of uncharged cartridges (bad news).
Operation and accuracy of both are identical to each other.
That's all I can think of right now.
Lost Sheep
Thanks for asking our advice.
The autodisk is about the greatest thing since sliced bread for convenience in reloading if you are using the Lee Powder-Through case-mouth belling die. Do make sure you have the swivel adapter for mounting (makes screwing the thing on easier and allows you to position the auto-disk for maximum convenience and least interference). Also, get TWO risers to make sure the autodisk will clear the primer feed device. There is no problem stacking the risers and swivel adapter. They work just fine stacked, and mine don't wobble a bit on my Lee Classic Turret, using the autoindexing.
How many calibers do you load?
How often do you switch calibers (# of rounds loaded per caliber before switching).
Do you keep your dies installed in turret heads?
Would you leave your powder measure installed on the die(s)?
I assume you are using the Lee Turret (though you did not specify). Are you using the autoindexing feature?
The answers to the above questions might make a difference in whether you would like to buy multiple units, leave them permanently set per caliber with your chosen (unchanging) charge weight set.
If you leave them permanently set up, do empty the powder from the hopper each time, but you can leave the auto-disk installed, no problem.
How often you dismount the auto-disks may make a difference to your choice. Likewise, how many autodisks you decide to buy (if you buy multiple ones) may make a difference.
The Pro mounts the powder hopper with nuts and machine screws. The standard uses little screws that screw into the plastic hopper. Strip the threads and you will need a new hopper.
However, if you never remove the hopper, this is unlikely to ever be an issue. If you change charge weights all the time (and don't choose to use multiple autodisks, which some people do), then you may be removing the hopper multiple times.
The Pro comes with the body of the device coated with teflon. The standard doesn't. I don't know what difference it makes.
If you get the standard auto-disk plus the upgrade kit, you get a free (normally $10) adjustable charge bar and then the only thing you lack is the teflon coating. But you now have an extra hopper (one in each style).
The powder hopper on the Pro shuts off with a twist to the hopper body. Of little use if you are not removing the hopper all the time, and even then, who keeps their powder in the hopper? One handloader I know of has accidentally turned off the powder flow, resulting in a bunch of uncharged cartridges (bad news).
Operation and accuracy of both are identical to each other.
That's all I can think of right now.
Lost Sheep
REL1203
Member
I just so happen to be selling a 4month old Lee Pro Auto disk, with 1 Riser and the Micrometer adjustment charge bar (as well as the 4 disk)... If you are interested, let me know...
john16443
Member
If REL1203 and you can work something out with his set-up. buy it. I recommend the Pro over the regular for several reasons.
- When you want to remove the hopper to place it in another die or turret set you've got set up in another caliber, you are NOT removing and reinstalling screws into and out of plastic. This is a common weakness noted with the regular auto disk.
- You will need the auto disk riser if you will be using the safety prime system on your turret. If you hand prime, you won't need this.
- There is a better seal/wiper between the hopper and the disk, this has significantly reduced or eliminated powder spills.
- The micrometer charge bar works with both, and IMHO is worth the cost. The holes in the disks provided by Lee have a range that varies up to 0.3 grains depending on the powder. Using the charge bar allows you to set the drop you want.
- Unless you are going to be loading over 30 grains of powder in a rifle cartridge, DON'T buy the double disk kit, it's made to be used to fine tune drops over 30 grains.
- I have only one Pro auto to reload 2 calibers. My dies are permanently installed in separate turrets, so it takes less than a minute to unscrew the Pro auto from one set of dies and screw it into the other set of dies. No die adjustments are required, all I do is adjust the charge bar for the drop I want in that caliber.
Get the PRO!
jcwit
member
Simple, Get the Pro, then there's problem with the hopper screws stripping out in a month or two down the road.
dickttx
Member
Get the Pro. It is a very valid update. The pro comes with the swivel adapter so you wouldn't need to purchase one. You would need a riser to use with the primer system. You don't really need two if you adjust the measure at the correct angle and tighten it good.
I prefer to use the disks, and I have a half dozen adjustable charge bars. If I can find a load that meters with an acceptable charge in a disk, it is much easier to use the disk than adjust the bar, then have to adjust it back to throw a previous load. I have the adjustibles so that if I do find a load that preforms significantly better at say 5.1 grains than at the 5.2 grains the disk throws, I can permanently set a bar for that.
I prefer to use the disks, and I have a half dozen adjustable charge bars. If I can find a load that meters with an acceptable charge in a disk, it is much easier to use the disk than adjust the bar, then have to adjust it back to throw a previous load. I have the adjustibles so that if I do find a load that preforms significantly better at say 5.1 grains than at the 5.2 grains the disk throws, I can permanently set a bar for that.
beardking
Member
If J_Mcleod isn't interested, I would be. (not trying to step on toes, just throwing my hat in the ring)
duelist1954
Member
I own both the standard and the pro versions. I have them mounted on almost all my turrets and on most of my Dillon tool heads...love them.
I think the only real difference between the pro and standard versions is the $10 in more cost. Buy the standard version and use the $10 for the micrometer adjustable powder bar. I use that bar on all of mine.
I think the only real difference between the pro and standard versions is the $10 in more cost. Buy the standard version and use the $10 for the micrometer adjustable powder bar. I use that bar on all of mine.
1SOW
Member
Buy the "Pro".
I started with the basic and upgraded to the PRO.
The Pro has a "Powder shut off" that comes in handy along with the improved wiper that does stop powder leakage. The basic hopper has small phillips head screws 'into the plastic hopper' that will strip or brake the plastic eventually. The Pro has brass knurled knob screws into metal, that will last forever.
I started with the basic and upgraded to the PRO.
The Pro has a "Powder shut off" that comes in handy along with the improved wiper that does stop powder leakage. The basic hopper has small phillips head screws 'into the plastic hopper' that will strip or brake the plastic eventually. The Pro has brass knurled knob screws into metal, that will last forever.
jcwit
member
Did you ever bother to look how the hopper was attached to the mechanism.
duelist1954
Member
I have indeed, however, having had four standard ones and one pro model for several years I've had zero problems with any of them.
I will admit that I use the micrometer adjustable powder bars, and not the disks, but I doubt that makes a difference.
Since they are so cheap, I buy one for each turret or toolhead that I need a powder measure for. So, I set each one to the specific load I want, and never need to mess with it again. Once I install the micrometer powder bar, I don't have to unscrew the hopper again, so I think it will be a heck of a long time before screws that don't get used strip out.
So my recommendation stands. Buy the cheap one and get as many of them as you need.
I will admit that I use the micrometer adjustable powder bars, and not the disks, but I doubt that makes a difference.
Since they are so cheap, I buy one for each turret or toolhead that I need a powder measure for. So, I set each one to the specific load I want, and never need to mess with it again. Once I install the micrometer powder bar, I don't have to unscrew the hopper again, so I think it will be a heck of a long time before screws that don't get used strip out.
So my recommendation stands. Buy the cheap one and get as many of them as you need.
GP100man
Member
I gt mine without instruction & developed a way to remove the discs without removing the hopper .
I remove the spring & lift the measure up the arm goes low enuff to allow disc change .
I remove the spring & lift the measure up the arm goes low enuff to allow disc change .
PsychoKnight
Member
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2006
- Messages
- 97
Yes, there's no need to remove the hopper - it will only serve to strip the threading in the standard model.
I don't even remove the spring. With the measure mounted to the turret, I just pull up on the aluminum chassis - the disk moves to the drop position and I pull it out the rest of the way.
If the measure is already off the press, then yes, unhooking the spring is the most efficient way to change disks.
I don't even remove the spring. With the measure mounted to the turret, I just pull up on the aluminum chassis - the disk moves to the drop position and I pull it out the rest of the way.
If the measure is already off the press, then yes, unhooking the spring is the most efficient way to change disks.
jcwit
member
I guess, but being as I reload for 30 some different calibers I don't have $600.00 dollars for an Auto Disk dedicated for each caliber. This doesn't enclude shipping charges.
So my recommend still stands, get the Auto Pro so as not to strip out the metat screws.
Hondo 60
Member
The Pro is MUCH better!
With the old regular, you have to take the screws out to change discs.
3-4 times of unscrewing from the plastic & they get loose.
I've used both & very strongly recommend the Pro over the old style regular.
With the old regular, you have to take the screws out to change discs.
3-4 times of unscrewing from the plastic & they get loose.
I've used both & very strongly recommend the Pro over the old style regular.
BrucefromWis
Member
Not trying to hijack the thread but I have a question directly relating to the original post: Several members referred to the "micrometer adjustment charge bar". I've been using the "regular" Lee auto disk for over a year now and this is the first time I've even HEARD of this adjustment bar. Where does this bar "fit" in the unit? I am delighted to learn of this "tool" because, as has been mentioned in the thread, the Lee disks don't allow for "fine tuning" a load. Thanks
squarles67
Member
It's an adjustable disk
It takes the place of the regular disk. I've found it gets less reliable the smaller the charge YMMV
It takes the place of the regular disk. I've found it gets less reliable the smaller the charge YMMV
BrucefromWis
Member
Thanks for the info. I'll have to look into this "gizmo" a little further...
john16443
Member
I use the charge bar exclusively, but all I load for is 9mm and 45ACP. I have to agree with squarles67, if you're planning on using something like Titegroup at real low charge weights, be absolutely sure to verify there was a good drop. Anything under 3.5 grains of TG is something I watch out for. Lee also has another nifty little device for extremely small loads, called the micro disk. http://leeprecision.com/xcart/MICRO-DISK-KIT.html
J_McLeod
Member
I just got mine in the mail today. Look forward to trying it out, but I only sent my scale back to Lee a few days ago and will have to wait.
LiveLife
Member
Don't get too excited as many posted, powders at lower charges (3-5 gr) don't meter consistently. Even with W231/HP-38 which meters best in the Pro Auto Disk did not meter consistently with the micro-charge bar below 5 gr for me.BrucefromWis said:
Not true. I buy extra disks ($11 for double disk kit and usually around $5 at gun shows) and drill out custom holes for in-between powder charges.
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