Buying a lightweight J frame... hammer or no hammer?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I prefer a hammer to target practice with. In the summer I probably shot about 25-50 rds a week with my 605. I have just taught my self to put my thumb over the hammer when I draw. Never have a problem. Just my 2 cents.
 
The smaller and lighter revolvers meant to be carry weapons, than are target shooters. All good sense, they are made for fighting.
 
Hammerless. These types of guns are not target guns and a hammer will only get in the way when you can afford it the least. In any when-seconds-count situation, it's double action time.

If you train yourself to cover the spur of the hammer with the ball of your thumb as you draw the revolver, it won't snag.
Click to expand...

Why train myself to perform an action that would be totally unneccessary with a slightly different piece of equipment? I could train myself to use an old Colt Single Action Army, too. Why bother?

I could understand training to cover the hammer if only an exposed hammer gun was available but this isn't the case. He hasn't bought it yet.

An exposed hammer spur is kind of shaped like a blade on a boat anchor. They both will snag if given half a chance.
 
I bought a 442 a few months ago preferring the concealed hammer over the 60's I've carried for years. Definitely the way to go. I do trigger jobs on Smiths with a lot of positive comments on my work. I found my new 442 trigger was so clean and precise that I decided not to touch it. It is, after all, a carry piece and not a target gun. Even if yours is a bit rough it doesn't matter.
 
I don't cock the hammers on double action/single hammers; I never feel that it's necessary. It's a unsafe habit to break.
 
I Like the 642 WITH THE THE cRIMSON TRace grips You don't have to worry about getting the gun sights to eye level. You just point the laser and shoot. See the Crimson trace Web Site.
 
In my vast experience carrying a J-frame revolver, (About 6 months) I've never had a problem with the hammer snagging. I use an Uncle Mike's pocket holster in jeans pockets, khakis pockets, coat pockets and in one shameful instance: a fanny pack. I like shooting SA so I gots to have my hammer.
 
A hammer on a CCW Airweight J-frame is kind of like an MP3 player on a hunting rifle -- kind of a neat feature that one might envision using some time, but at best superfluous and at worst detrimental to the purpose of the firearm.:D
 
The spring, which holds this revolver in place, don't work too well with hammers.

Bianchi 9R
Bianchi 9R
Formly called, The Bernes Martin "Lighting"

Bianchi9R.gif ​
 
Shooting single action is fun during practice,but I truly believe if you ever have to pull the snubbie,it will be up close and personal.You will probably jerk the gun out and crunch the trigger several times very quickly and thumbing the hammer will not come into play.My 2" snub is hammerless,and my 3" has a bobbed hammer.
 
QUOTE:
A hammer on a CCW Airweight J-frame is kind of like an MP3 player on a hunting rifle -- kind of a neat feature that one might envision using some time, but at best superfluous and at worst detrimental to the purpose of the firearm.
(end QUOTE)

I agree. Besides the Centennials tend to have better triggers than the exposed hammer models.

I try to fire 95% of my practice shooting with a constant, no pause, DA pull through. That way I'm more likely to do that better in a self defense situation. If one learns to depend on cocking the hammer for a better trigger pull - he is more likely to think about doing that in a stress situation as well. Dangerous and time consuming IMO.

Having said all that - I can and do stage my Centennial model's trigger to a point just before break over. There is a distict spot where that happens. When you do that - it becomes the equivilent of cocking the hammer on an exposed hammer model anyway.

Why have a hammer to perhaps snag and why put up with a lessor trigger with the hammer models when you don't have to to accomplish the same thing?

However, a hammered gun looks cooler, if that matters to you (or to the inside of your pocket:) ).
 
I prefer an exposed hammer, but if one is going to pocket carry, a DAO (bobbed) or shrouded hammer is less likely to snag one's pocket.
In my case, I carried a spurred hammer Taurus 85 for many years with no problems. But I did buy an 851 (shrouded hammer) last year...less wear on the trousers and does draw easier.
 
However, a hammered gun looks cooler...
Click to expand...


Cooler than this?



:banghead:

I tried to attach a photo of a Model 40 (very cool!). I got the message that I had previously attached that file in another thread. I don't want to jack this thread - but can anyone PM me about managing photo attachments?

Why can I only use a photo once?

How do I insert a photo in the post rather than as a thumbnail?
 
I agree with most of the previous posters that the hammerless or concealed hammers are best. I have two 642s and a 442 (with CT laser) for my own carry.

I do have a couple of J-frames with hammers for my wife and daughter who seem to lack the trigger finger strength for double action onthe Centennials. It may be that with the adrenaline flowing that wouldn't be a problem, but I don't want to take a chance.
 
It should be noted that the Airweight is a specialized gun.

I wouldn't want a shrouded hammer on a 686 or anything.:)
 
My answer . . .

Any of the three styles that you find and like. They are all fine guns.

Mine have hammers because I was looking for a vintage, "no-dash" steel gun and a vintage, "no-dash" Airweight . . . and both of 'em that came along happened to have hammers when I was in the market.

I practice a proper draw to monotony, and thus the hammer is NOT a problem.

The hammer IS a plus on careful, slow fire stuff. There's always the possibility you'll be in the back of a convenience store when a thug comes in starting to shoot people. You may find concealment and cover, and be able to make a steady, braced, single action shot that puts the BG out of commission at a greater distance than you might feel comfortable with taking double action.

Plus, you only have five shots before you are done . . . or have to reload. You better make 'em count.

T.

PS: I long ago mastered the double action pull when shooting hundreds of steel, tactical and pin matches. Double action is THE way to go when you need to fire fast and under stress. Accuracy can be great too . . . if you've practiced until mastery.
 
I have found my self debating something similar lately and I'd have to say the bodyguard style smiths are probablly your best bet
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Jim NE
  • Locked
Curious about odd S&W Model 14 and Model 65 versions
Replies
3
Views
431
Old Fuff
O
C
  • Locked
GP100 Hammer problem
Replies
1
Views
447
Fumbler
F
L
  • Locked
Smith Airweight J Frame
2 3
Replies
64
Views
4K
marcclarke
M
Sovblocgunfan
  • Locked
Smith Model 49-deal or no deal?
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
bannockburn
bannockburn
B
  • Locked
Are the "advantages" of DAO revolvers based upon fallacies?
2
Replies
36
Views
3K
logical
L
Back
Top