Calipers what do you use price ?

What calipers do you use. Price ?

  • Dial $30 or less

    Votes: 26 23.9%
  • Dial $30 or more

    Votes: 27 24.8%
  • Electronic (digital) $30 or less

    Votes: 38 34.9%
  • Electronic (digital) $30 and up into the $100's

    Votes: 18 16.5%

  • Total voters
    109
  • Poll closed .
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Mitutoyo....a Series 500 Absolute Coolant Proof Digimatic to be exact.

Enco recently had them on sale for one day @ $125 shipped.

To be more exact the 500-752-10;) Free shipping. If I find it for $125 I'll buy it!:)
 
As with any tool, once you've become accustomed to a certain feel and/or perceived level of quality, it's hard to go back. I'm guilty of this in certain specific tools that I keep in the shop. After using a $200.00 jigsaw, it's hard to go back to a $20.00 B&D, for instance. (Well, this is a bad example, until quick change blades are available on a $20.00 saw!)

For now, I have been using harbor freight calipers. When the battery gets low, they start acting screwy. And the on/off button stopped working after a couple of years, but it works fine after a detail cleaning. I don't know how far "off" the accuracy is, but it's not by much. I use it for CAD, as well, and it has never steered me wrong. As far as precision/repeatability, I find no fault with the device.

I was prompted to buy calipers for reloading, and now I don't know how I ever lived without them. It's been a long while since I last reloaded, and most of my gear is in storage. But I use the calipers quite frequently.

As for batteries, I don't see this as an issue, at all. When the LR44 alkaline battery dies, replace it with an LR44 silver oxide and you're set for a long time. Modern microcontrollers have truly tiny sleep current draw, basically insignificant. Today, even the cheapest of mass-produced Chinese battery-op electronics are usually implementing this technology, properly.
 
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I have a set of digital I gave $11.50 for from Amazon about 4 years ago. I also have a set of $10 HF about 3 years old. One in the house and one on the reloading bench. To be truthful I very seldom use either of them.
I am not an experimenter and I set up my loads to function in my pistols. I don't need a caliper to tell me it is too long when I am setting one up. The plunk test will tell me that. Same for the crimp. From then on I just make sure they look like the previous ones.
I look for usability and value.
Thank goodness, after about 25 years, my Rolex my wife got me one Christmas lost the threads on the stem. I now have a nice titanium case Seiko that cost about 1/20 of what the Rolex did and is 1000% more accurate.:)
 
I've got two sets of the HF cheapies. One is dedicated to the hornady OAL and Headspace measuring tools. Both work fine for me.

Matt
 
I have managed to accumulate five different calipers over the years. First was a vernier Starrett. It's been retired for several years as those little bitty numbesr have shrunk to the point I can't read 'em anymore, even with a magnifier. Got a medium priced digital that I've had long enough to forget the brand name that I use for quick measurements for lathe work and a Mitutoyo dial that I grab for pretty close work. Exact gets a micrometer. A couple of years ago I added a $12 Harbor Freight digital to the range box for measuring targets. Now and then I will check each for accuracy. I admit that none of them gets used every day or even every week and sometimes not even every month but each is always spot on.
 
I purchased some mitutoy DIALcalipers used from the lgs years ago. Could not be happier. $35 bucks for a very accurate tool. I jus seen them on flea-bay for bout the same price. I have used the digital kind and it leaves much to be desired. Do yourself a favor and get a good set.
 
I have used the the same starretts for so many years , They were not cheap and I don't think there were any cheap chinese ones around . I paid about $60 for a 6 inch set about 35 years ago
 
OEM brand dial I picked up at Autozone if I remember right. I set the zero with a "felt pressure" and then measure my casings/oal at that time. I'd go digital, but an O.A.L. gauge and comparator are next in my budget..
 
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