can I bend a recoil pad

[greyling22]

if I heat (boil?) a grind to fit pachmayr recoil pad with the hard plastic base (no metal insert) and the rubber outer bit, can I then bend it a little bit? I didn't cut my stock 100% square and I have a bit of a gap (less then the thickness of a dime) at one end.

thanks.

 

[jbaker]

did you square up the recoil pad? I fine they need to be squared up also so I just hit them on a belt sander.

JB

 

[greyling22]

it is square. and very very close to perfect, just a little gap at the bottom. maybe I should try epoxying the tip. thoughts?

 

[jbaker]

you need to get the stock squared, also I go to a bigger size screw then the ones that come with the pad. I just not in to epoxy if I can help it besides thats not the way it would come for the factory. But do what you need to so it looks right to you.

JB

 

[avan47]

Attach a piece of sand paper to the top of your work bench. Hold the stock firmly against the sand paper and sand it flat by pushing it away from you. Do not try to sand it by moving it back and forth on the sand paper. You will not be able to maintain firm contact with the sand paper that way. It takes patience and perseverance, but it works.

 

[ranger335v]

"it is square. and very very close to perfect, just a little gap at the bottom. maybe I should try epoxying the tip. thoughts? "

That is the best way to go. Who cares what a factory would do? Factories don't seal unexposed wood either but it should be. Spreading a thin layer of epoxy on the butt's end grain and leaving a small puddle where you need to built up the fit will work great. Do wax the stock and pad sides and/or apply masking tape to all surfaces you wish to protect. And wax the pad's mating surface well if you hope to ever take it back off!

A clear, uncolored, epoxy will look black after it sets. Seen along the thin mating surfaces of a pad, clear blends in almost invisibly.

You can remove (most) epoxies with vinegar if you work before it sets up. And Mineral Spirits will also work to clean any smears without harming anything else.

But, yes, you can slightly bend a pad after a soak in very hot water. You can also warp it and make things worse. Use the epoxy and seal the end grain as you do it.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

I suggest you use avan47's method. It is the one taught by gunsmith schools and is a PROVEN method. You may very well regret it if you epoxy the pad on.

 

[ranger335v]

Jimmy, you are right, the "sand it flat" method is great - if you are skilled at doing it! Most of us will only round off the end grain, leaving a high spot in the middle.

I've put on dozens of recoil pads using the method I described. It works fine, every time and little manual skill is required. Removing the pad later is easy IF you wax the thing as described, otherwise it's a permanant installaton!

I assume Grayling is trying to clean up the installation on a pad that is already ground to fit his stock. If so, any changes to the stock by sanding or re-cutting will up-set the fit and make things worse for him.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

To each his own, I guess. I've never had any trouble truing a stock but maybe I'm just lucky.

 

[greyling22]

I appreciate all the insight. Heating and bending is out. I think what I may end up doing is to just a put a dab of epoxy on the end that is gapping to tack it down and leave the rest clear. that way if I have to take it off some day I should be able to break it free. worst case scenario I have to chop it all off, lose about a half inch of wood and and buy a new, slightly thicker, recoil pad.