Can you use large magnum primers for 45acp?

deano5150

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May 8, 2023
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I want to start reloading 45acp but can only find large magnum primers. Are they ok to use and if so will I need to reduce powder charges?
Thanks!
 
I've been using Small Magnum Pistol Primers in my .40 s+w loads following the advice mentioned above as this was question I had awhile back abotu MSPP's, But I typically load mid range just to err on the side of not pushing it anyways and havent had any issues. I recently scored some MLPP's for a 10mm Auto build, and will follow the same steps I did using the SMPP's, those will just be plinking rounds anyways. I have regular LPP's that I will load hotter for the Bear rounds. You should be good if you dont push it as menitoned.
 
Are they ok to use
Yes.
will I need to reduce powder charges?
Maybe. It depends on how close you are to "max" powder charges now. You said you "want to start" loading for the .45ACP, so just start low and work up - just like you would if you could find regular large pistol primers.
BTW, I've never run across any of them, but I've read right here on THR that some .45ACP cases use small pistol primers. So there's that - one more thing to look out for. ;)
 
I tend to follow the path of judicious caution: when any major component changes, drop back to the lowest known good, safe charge and work back up to the most accurate load that meets the needed velocity for the intended purpose.

^^^ This sums it up in my opinion.

A friend of mine went "all magnum" years ago.
I had to agree with his logic.
They won't not work ;)
Just load per the above advice.

I intend to replace my inventories with all magnums as the need to replenish arises.
 
A primer is a primer is a primer ; UNLESS one has a large volume of extruded or spherical ball . Then a magnum primer becomes a necessity ,especially as ambient temp drops below 30 Deg. F. . Erratic ignition ISN'T favorable in any weapon ,especially a MAGNUM !.
 
Given that WIN combined the 2.....
I can't imagine other brands are that much different, at least enough to create an unsafe condition.
Start low, work up. Avoid published max just to be safe.
 
Thanks for all the feedback, folks! My plan is to load basic FMJ target rounds similar to Federal, Remington, Winchester, etc. I just want to be able to shoot my 1911 more for less money. Also, I’m really enjoying the reloading process.
 
I use what ever I have. I never reload to the max .
I seen a video where they conographed all of the different primers.
LRP
LMRP
LPP
LMPP
THERE WAS ONLY FIFTY FEET PER SECOND BETWEEN ALL OF THE PRIMERS.
So when switching primers there isn't much to worry about.
My friend does a whole lot of shooting and he uses what ever is the cheapest.
 
I won’t use magnum LPP”s in 45 autos mainly to avoid the chance of breech face erosion (pitting around the firing pin hole).

But for small pistol primers I’ll use anything, including SRP’s.
 
I don't think using magnum primers would damage the breech face.
I've read where people had lots of problems with LilGun powder screwing chambers and forcing cones on revolvers.
I read that and threw what LilGun powder I had left in the garbage.
 
I don't think using magnum primers would damage the breech face.
I've read where people had lots of problems with LilGun powder screwing chambers and forcing cones on revolvers.
I read that and threw what LilGun powder I had left in the garbage.
I don't think a powder has a big impact on those things, more of a slow powder light bullet issue. Same conditions that eat top straps... my purpose for the powder was pushing 170s and 180s in 357, so more of a specialty powder on my bench.
 
You can use it but know that the magnum primers were designed to have a longer and hotter flash when using larger capacity cases using slower burning powders ensuring total ignition of the powder. For this reason the ignition of a magnum primer that lasts longer will produce more gas and can increase the chamber pressure without necessarily effecting muzzle velocity. As recommended above reduce your loads and check for pressure signs.
 
You can use it but know that the magnum primers were designed to have a longer and hotter flash when using larger capacity cases using slower burning powders ensuring total ignition of the powder. For this reason the ignition of a magnum primer that lasts longer will produce more gas and can increase the chamber pressure without necessarily effecting muzzle velocity. As recommended above reduce your loads and check for pressure signs.

I do wish we had data on primer characteristics. I am unaware of any technical data showing differences between standard and magnum primers. Data such as primer pressure curve, the mean and standard deviations, peak energy, dwell, duration of burn, amount of mass ejected, etc, etc. I was told by a guy who visited one US Army Ammunition plant that the contractors have these instrumented "mules" which measure every characteristic of the primer lot under test. However, we don't get to see that.

All we know is what we have been told in for profit magazines, and what I have read, is magnum primers are supposed to have a longer burn. Maybe they do. But how much more than a standard primer, don't know that.
 
You can use it but know that the magnum primers were designed to have a longer and hotter flash when using larger capacity cases using slower burning powders ensuring total ignition of the powder. For this reason the ignition of a magnum primer that lasts longer will produce more gas and can increase the chamber pressure without necessarily effecting muzzle velocity. As recommended above reduce your loads and check for pressure signs.
In 45acp pressure signs aren't a usable thing. On top of that you can't read primers either..
 
I saw something, may have even been on this site, about a primer test. I'll see if I can find it. Basically primers have a different brisance, which can increase pressure, and a different flame front, which can also alter pressure.

chris
 
Two forces rule the world ; Pressure and Leverage ; DON'T get caught between either .
IF one is gonna substitute ANY component from the normal reloading regiment , BE aware of certain constants along with temperature and even humidity effects . Note the RWS large rifle primer ignition , NO magnum primer required . Temperature coupled with duration is PRESSURE .

BR shooters like small primers because it reduces PRESSURE spikes ,commonly found in large primers . Sometimes referred to as the second pressure wave . An ignition is a semi controlled burn ,what's NOT controlled are external factors . So IF anyone is loading on the edge ,PLEASE DON'T substitute anything and carefully check ALL CASES for pressure signs . Remember components can be replaced CAREFULLY , Fingers Hands Eyes and Lives NOT so !. I like the analogy used in the article below ,of a brass cartridge case being like a balloon ,it contains and expands ; UNTIL IT DOESN'T !. :)

https://www.primalrights.com/library/articles/understanding-pressure
 
In 45acp pressure signs aren't a usable thing. On top of that you can't read primers either..
But one can tell the difference during recoil as well, every time the slide slams to the rear, and I've had primers blown off the case.
 
I don't think using magnum primers would damage the breech face.
I've read where people had lots of problems with LilGun powder screwing chambers and forcing cones on revolvers.
I read that and threw what LilGun powder I had left in the garbage.
While I agree Lil'Gun is offensive for handgun ammo I really think it shines for .357 Magnum ammo with a heavy bullet shot from a levergun.
It's also a great powder for the .22 Hornet. It increases the velocity with lower pressures.
 
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