Caps not firing

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hawg said:
I can't remember having any caps that went bad. My biggest cap problem is Remington caps that lose their priming compound.
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I was kinda thinking about that the other day. I found a few tins of Remington 10s that have to be twenty years old, probably more than that. Figure I’ll use them up before the newer stuff.
 
SSBN617b said:
I will try the caps again, probably my fault not seating them. I had to leave the range early in frustration as there was a constant request to go down range.
Maybe I should bring a spotting scope and let the AR guys borrow it so I can shoot.
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Make sure you have the correct size percussion cap for the revolvers Nipples ... there are different sized nipples and different sized caps ... if they aren't the correct size / fit ... no go bang .
If you can't determine what size caps to use ... replace the nipples , stainless steel are nice , and use the size the instructions say to use ,
Gary
 
gwpercle said:
And ...Don't Forget ... The SIZE is more important than freshness ... get the cap size correct !
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Truth. But you know, if the caps turn out to be too tight on the cones, there's a silver lining there. In that case, one can chuck them cones in the drill press, turn the cones down slightly with a small detail file, then finish it up with emery paper, and get the perfect fit with the caps you have. Just go slow and try the caps on the cone frequently. (don't have to un-chuck the cone to do that) If you just order new cones, you don't know what the fit will be until you get them. I have all my revolvers set up that way. The entire vast collection of four.

The fit I like to get is where they are still tight, and are difficult to remove by hand/finger-nail, but not so tight so as not to seat properly. That ensures they never come off from recoil, or fall of for any reason. When capping the revolver, I always make sure to further press them on. I use the hammer, but a dowel works well and makes most people feel "safer". But, I'm not sure what kind of fool would seat the caps with either hammer or dowel, with it pointed at their leg, foot, another person, the dog, cat, or anything else one would not want to put a hole in. !!!
 
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hawg said:
I don't have a problem with seating caps with the hammer. It's not going to hurt anything but say anything about it and you get a lot of negative responses. I just use my thumb.
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Right, even with the "perfect" fit, they should seat with just the thumb. I still like to just make sure with the hammer. (or dowel if one prefers) As I carry my pistols in the field, I can't "afford" a miss-fire.
 
Nothing better than turning down nipples , chucked in your drill for , that perfect fit ...
... after that caps just slip on and hold tight with a slight amount of finger pressure .

You don't want to use a hammer to drive them on ... that could lead to an accidental discharge .
Gary
 
gwpercle said:
Nothing better than turning down nipples , chucked in your drill for , that perfect fit ...
... after that caps just slip on and hold tight with a slight amount of finger pressure .

You don't want to use a hammer to drive them on ... that could lead to an accidental discharge .
Gary
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The hammer, not a hammer. I also press fit caps with pressure on the hammer.
 
noelf2 said:
The hammer, not a hammer. I also press fit caps with pressure on the hammer.
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Maybe gwpercle meant an actual hammer? Like a tack-hammer? Because, done responsibly the pistol's hammer poses no more risk of a discharge then a dowel would. Being made of steel does not cause a cap to ignite. They are called "percussion caps" for a reason.

Either way, hammer or dowel, I'll say again that if you do that with the pistol pointed at anything you don't want to shoot while pressing on the caps is kind of insane. Koo koo crazy. Or, requires a very low IQ.

Having said that, the hammer could slip off the thumb while lining the cylinder/cone up with the hammer, but that requires a lack of attention and motor skills, and again, where is the pistol pointed? Putting a ball in the dirt won't harm anything. It will startle you badly, and embarrass one badly for sure. !!!!
 
Gary,
I did not turn down the nipples as of now I live in an apartment and cannot do that .
Miss my shop
 
Don't turn them down very much, a good tight fit will keep them from falling off during recoil. But, you could chuck them in a hand drill and work them over with emery paper and polish them up. That might be/probably would be enough to do it.
 
Before turning the nipples down it would be nice to share with the rest what brand those caps are - they might be CCI #10 for all we know...
 
Yes, whatever they are one would want to be sure that's what would be used in the future, or that one had a large supply of them. CCI's are all I can get, so I got a lot of them, and fit all my cones to them.
 
CCI #10 fit my stock nipples pretty good. I use my thumb to put them on and they fit snug. Sometimes they don't come apart and they are a booger to get off.
 
Yours should be a metric thread - 6x0.75 mm, .500" long (6x.75x.500). TOW No. PIR-EI (carbon steel) or PIR-ES (stainless steel). Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Right, Track has them. I forget the thread size, but I think 6-75 is right. I put some stainless ones on my Euroarms/DGG 1860. I believe they were a good fit out-of-the-box (baggie) with the CCI's. I don't know if the 1075's are bigger or smaller. I have some 1075's, but my 1860 is loaded and capped up so I can't try them on and see.

But, if the stock nips work if you use your brass rod, I believe that you could chuck them in a hand drill and polish them down with emery paper for the prefect fit. If you get a new set, you may have to do that anyway. ?
 
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