Case Trapper

[md7]

i recieved a case trapper with amber bone handle, and CV blades as a Christmas present. This is my first Case and i'm pretty pumped about it. been wanting a Case knife for a a while now.

i know that CV is not a stainless steel so i have a few questions.

#1 What is a "patina"? is this just for looks or does it do for the blade what parkerizing does for gun barrels.

#2 I want to carry and use the heck out of this knife. it is cool with me if the steel darkens or changes with use. actually, i kind of look forward to that, but i do NOT want it to rust. How do you guys that carry CV blades maintain them?

#3 Is it normal to browse the Case website and create "wish" lists for future purchases?

anyway, thanks in advance for the info, and hope all of ya'll had a merry christmas, and have a good new year.

 

[Doug S]

Hey, I got one of those for Christmas also.

The patina is actually a bit of controlled corrosion that will protect the blade (to a degree) from other rust. It also looks kinda neat. Some guys will cut an apple, or soak it in certain liquids to get an immediate patina. Others will do it naturally by using the knife. I tend to think of a "patina" as something that happens with age.

Just wipe it down regularly (every evening), and keep some oil on it, and you should be fine. I use Eezox on everything, and have never had rust problems.

Yes, the Case website is addictive. Try to stay away from the website.

Here is a picture of the two I received this Christmas. The top one is a Case Medium Stockman with brown, sythetic jigged scales, and stainless steel blades (EDC). The bottom is my Amber Bone Trapper w/ CV blades.

And a Merry Christmas to you also.

 

[Piraticalbob]

Patina is something of a misnomer. What it actually is is oxidization, the technical term for corrosion: in the case of steel, rust. It's done in such a controlled fashion, however, that the rust never progresses to the degree of pitting, which is the mark of a neglected knife.

To begin the process, clean the knife blade thoroughly, then use it to cut your next steak. The steel will stain (discolor). Clean the blade so that no food particles remain, then oil the blade and put the knife back in your pocket.

Thereafter, whenever you use the knife to peel an apple, cut meat, clean game, etc., follow the same process: wipe the blade clean (if it is to cut food), use the knife, clean and oil the knife. Over time the blade will discolor until it has a dark coat of not-quite-rust over its entire surface. That is the patina, the mark of a skilled and careful knife owner. Take pride in it.

 

[Doug S]

I picked up a Mini Trapper today to go with my Trapper. The Mini Trapper is stainless, though. Good thing the cat is so lazy, or I don't know what I'd do for a picture background.

 

[Zeke/PA]

Practicalbob has pretty much sumed it up about the patina thing.
The key words are of course KNIFE CARE.
ALWAYS wipe the knife after veggies etc.
The CV (Chrome Vanadium) is somewhat rust RESISTANT due to the high Chrome content and the steel itself is very close in alloy to the venerable D-2 a World War I era die steel, and a SUPERIOR materal for blades.
It has been suggested on this forum to use soda water (Pepsi, Dr. Pepper) to hasten the patina process.
While I've never tried it myself, maybe another forum member can enlighten us.
Case knives are by the way habit forming.
Regards, Zeke

 

[rugerfreak]

Apples put an instant patina on the CV blades.

 

[conw]

Basically you have three options...try to keep it nice and shiny, which will require frequent work with a polishing compound; let it gain a patina on its own, but keep it oiled to prevent excessive corrosion; or jumpstart the patina process in order to keep it uniform.

I chose #3...#1 is too much trouble, and #2 tends to result in an uneven coloration (or discoloration I guess) if you just cut a fruit and leave the juice on it.

I just stuck my knife in heated orange juice for about 10 minutes, took it out, rinsed it, and stropped it...now it's fairly dark, but I keep it oiled. Looks good with a nice polished edge.

The only part it's really important to keep lubricated is the joint...you will want to rinse/wipe the whole thing with each use though.

 

[conw]

ArfinGreebly has a thread with pics from 10 months or so ago. If you do the heated OJ it will get pretty dark, but will lighten up with use. Don't do it without looking at the pics...

http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-352705.html

Also, according to wiki, patina is not a misnomer - it describes the process and the results perfectly.

 

[TimboKhan]

I want to say SM patina's his with Dr. Pepper in a glass bottle, but I might be mistaken.

 

[sm]

My ears were burning...*ouch*

TimboKhan,
Yes my friend, Dr. Pepper will force a patina, as will RC (Royal Crown Cola) Root Beer and other soft drinks such as Coca-Cola and Pepsi/

Mustard, Vinegar , Lemon juice...etc will force a patina as well.


md7,

You have a very nice knife, and the CV is still one of the best knife steels one can have.

You don't need to "force" a Patina.

I have, just because some folks wanted to learn and I showed them, or circumstances dictated I get a Patina a bit sooner , such as for dealing with emergencies and the like.
i.e. Severe weather, such as tornadoes, and force a patina to hedge off problems knowing full well a new knife is going to be used in such conditions.


As shared above, the patina protects the blade. Bluing on a firearm is a form of oxidation (rust) and "forced" if you will.
Patina is akin to the "forced" oxidation on a firearm to protect the unfinished metal ("in the white")

Just use the knife and it will naturally gain a patina, and it will have character the forced patina does not.
Apples, potatoes, and the like.
Heck use the knife for food prep. I and others do.



These Case with CV are proven, and just use it, strop it on dry leather, or the back of a legal pad to keep it sharp oil the pivots, wipe blades with a bit of oil.

Currently I am using Super Oil as I found some. I did not realize I had. I have used this for decades, and it is just a household machine oil.
I never cared for 3in1 though I have used it.
I have always preferred Super Oil. Go here and click on MSDS and Product info.
http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp

Rem-oil works well , as that is what I was using and do use on on firearms.



Get a Old Hickory Paring knife with is 1095 steel and learn to freehand sharpen.
Most folks sharpen too much, and strop too little.
Meaning, folks sharpen when they did not need too , removing metal that did not need to be removed ,when stropping is all they needed to do.

Dry leather, back of legal pad, on blue jeans, and I have been known to strop on my bare hand.
Not recommended if you do not know what you are doing.

 

[md7]

thanks alot for the info.

this is really cool stuff. all the knives i have ever owned have been stainless knives of AUS 8, 420, and s30v. i think i can really get into this CV steel and the Case style of knives. again, thanks for all of the info.

 

[sm]

i think i can really get into this CV steel and the Case style of knives. again,

Yep, the addiction has kicked in for yet another one. *grin*

 

[bikerdoc]

Welcome to our world md7!!