Cast 223rem load data help

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Lokichoki

Lokichoki

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Going to cast C225-55-RF 22 Lee mold does anyone have a good load to start with I have a 16" carbine 1-9 I'm using range scrap for lead and I will be adding hardener alloy when it arrives I have no way of measuring hardness.
I have these powders
Bullseye, imr4320, imr4350, unique, CFE pistol, A#7, imr4227 , imr3031, imr4064, herc 2400
Thanks in advance any links to info will help god bless
 
My only suggestion.... If you are shooting in excess of 1500 -1600fps, you would be wise to use Gas Checks to reduce/eliminate leading of your barrel.
 
I'm using gas checks they are applied with the Lee 225 sizer and I will keep them under 2k depending on lead hardness
 
I do quench as well , I've been looking at getting a hardness tester but haven't had a need until now since I'm starting on rifle bullets, I've been casting for a couple years now I've done alot of different ways and tried new things, I have even quenched in chilled and thinned alox just for $!?$ and giggles. Didn't work btw , I had a little better hardness surprisingly from quenching in motor oil that was chilled in the freezer for a little while thinking it might slicken up the bullets but they didn't stop leading any better and the 1-2 bh my friend measured wasn't make or break in my pistol loads, oh and same velocity's but the extra dust attracted etc made it more of a hassle
 
Only powder I have data for in any lead bullet 55gr 223 with the powders you have is Unique and Lyman molds.
Lyman 49th has 2 Unique load loads for 55 gr Lyman bullets.
Lyman #225415 55gr Start 6.8gr 19,00 fps CUP=20,400 ...Max 9.5gr 2,33fps CUP= 35,000 COAL 2.060"
Lyman #225646 55gr Start 6.2gr 1753fps CUP=26,700....Max 9.0gr 2209fps CUP= 41,400 COAL 2.260

Loadbooks USA lists the Lyman #225646 same as Lyman 49th manual but start load is higher @ 7.6gr and 1853 CUP 21,500
 
Thanks for the info wrecker I do have the Lyman 49th load data I was gonna roll up 5 at the 6.2 gr unique and check velocities I'm sure it will be safe at that level even with the different molds. I feel like I want a little more case fill up so I'm going to start with unique and green dot (6.2gr) and see how it goes. Still want to here what others are using for this specific mold.
 
Might want to post this on Cast Boolits forum website. They love chewing down on such issues and probably at least one person has your specific die.
 
+1 on the Cast Boolits ,you can the shake and bake powder coating before you you put on the gas checks and skip the lube .You can run them fast with out leading, Although your groups may open up if you go too fast, just under 2,500 fps works for me.

C
 
I am getting setup with powder coating but I've shyed away from what I saw doing them by tumble
 
Dry tumble is not hard to do, I don't even use the air soft BB's they just seem to get in my way ,just shake and swirl in a # 5 (recyle # on bottom of tub) container I use cool whip.Pick the boolits out with nitrile gloves place on no stick foil in yard sale toaster oven bake for 10 min. after glossing. Good powder is important (red is the only one that works from HF) I like the powder from Smoke @ cast boolits forum it works the best for me and he sells sample packs four colors for under $20. shipped .

CC
 
clearcut said:
Dry tumble is not hard to do, I don't even use the air soft BB's they just seem to get in my way ,just shake and swirl in a # 5 (recyle # on bottom of tub) container I use cool whip.Pick the boolits out with nitrile gloves place on no stick foil in yard sale toaster oven bake for 10 min. after glossing. Good powder is important (red is the only one that works from HF) I like the powder from Smoke @ cast boolits forum it works the best for me and he sells sample packs four colors for under $20. shipped .

CC
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I second that. The HF powder doesn't tumble easy. Smokes is great for tumbling. shake for a minute or two at most and they are coated. bake size and load.
 
I used white cause it's what I had on hand they were to thick by hand tumbling for a minute , I've got my lead hardener in and mixed up a batch it's very hard in comparison I'll just GC them and lube with my homemade lube ( 1pnd random candle , big jar of vasoline , 2 tsp stp, half a bottle of alox from a size kit, 2 black powder sticks of lube I accidentally bought and a jumbo red crayon) real precise lube :)
 
Lokichoki said:
I used white cause it's what I had on hand they were to thick by hand tumbling for a minute , I've got my lead hardener in and mixed up a batch it's very hard in comparison I'll just GC them and lube with my homemade lube ( 1pnd random candle , big jar of vasoline , 2 tsp stp, half a bottle of alox from a size kit, 2 black powder sticks of lube I accidentally bought and a jumbo red crayon) real precise lube :)
Click to expand...
Lol. Precision lube is only important at certain velocity right?

If you used HF white it sucks so don't go by those results. HF red is best of the HF and it can be finicky to tumble.

How are you applying the lube?
 
By pan, I haven't had to seat a gas check before should I size and seat the gas check then lube or what? Lee recommends lubing before sizing to help the sizing process but wouldn't that compromise the GC even if I painstakingly clean all the bases first
 
IMHO would seat GC before lube it's easier. If your worried about sticking a bullet use some case lube and run them through to seat GC first. Then pan lube.
 
I'll find out what I need to do I'm sure since I'm using a harder lead projectile compared to my pistol rounds it'll be fine . Here's the first batch of 225 they look good even though light started to show through my Lyman 2 cavity die with no lead to be seen on its faces. They weigh 54.9, 55, 54.9 , 55 , 55 out of five I just weighed. That is dead on normally I read higher due to plain Jane range scrap lead.
 

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Looking good. Now if I go and buy a mold it's all your fault! :cuss: I promised myself I would buy my rifle bullets and cast my pistol. :(
 
I havent shot them yet so the proof for me at least is in the air especially since I've got a ways of load development to go. Well I will recommend a 6 cavity if you can pony up even better a steel mold if can stallion up but a little extra time and $20 bucks isn't bad it has paid for itself already bullet wise it will be about 2 weeks until it evens out the sizer and M-die and gas checks and lead hardener. They miked right on point 225 but if you want to reload it BUY YOUR SIZER NOW Midway USA stated that the the 225 sizer is discontinued and the 224 is available I grabbed mine on freeloader.com. but since I've always been told one thou above I grabbed that sizer up. You would have to confirm with Lee about that though. Even better I heard excellent groups from 226
 
`Yeah 6 cavities are on back order...lol. anyway accuracy with cast bullets in rifle is little tough. unless you slug your barrel and buy sizers to size the bore rider portion and the grove portion separately and according to slug going .001" to .002" over. Good thread on castboolits about accuracy using PC. Plus more with regular lube and GC's in the cast bullet section.

NOE molds has the push through Die and the bushings. Run about $60 for the die and 2 bushings.
 
I've had a week to prep my brass and I'm very anal about my brass so I can be confident accuracy will lie in the bullet and the powder and it's consistency, I still need a comparator and thought about a micro-depth adjustment bullet seating die but I feel like my quick change bushing on my Lee challenger isnt for precision and a worthless addition to a press , maybe that's just me but I'm right so take that for what it's worth....Alot jk and I will let you know my data and velocity's wrecker if you are interested
 
Man I like that NOE setup I might have to try something new I'm a big Lee fan for price and availability it has served me very well better dies too I hate the crimp and seat dies from Hornady although great for range fodder
 
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