FPrice
Member
My local FFL is starting to get some CETMEs in stock. At first he had the wooden stock versions which did not thrill me. But he just got got one with a black synthetic stock and three HK (?) 20-round mags. I am tempted...should I?
CETME Purchase?
- Thread starter FPrice
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At $289 it's hard to go wrong! Just picked one up myself. Be sure to check out Perro's site on what to look for when you're buying one as there are some issues with Century...
http://www.cetmerifles.com
http://www.cetmerifles.com
vanfunk
Member
Frosty -
Who's your FFL? I'm in MA too and have been curious about these CETME's for over a year. I've been leary of ordering one sight unseen.
I tend to frequent Four Seasons and Collector's Coin Gallery m'self.
Thanks,
vanfunk
Who's your FFL? I'm in MA too and have been curious about these CETME's for over a year. I've been leary of ordering one sight unseen.
I tend to frequent Four Seasons and Collector's Coin Gallery m'self.
Thanks,
vanfunk
FPrice
Member
vanfunk...
"I tend to frequent Four Seasons and Collector's Coin Gallery m'self."
I am over near Springfield although I have gone to Four Seasons a few times to pick up something they have had.
The problem is that I have no idea what to look for in a CETME and what to be cautious of. They seem to have a lot of supporters but the amount of knowledge here locally is nil. The sticker price here is $425 for a wood stock and $525 for a synthetic although I can probably get 10% off that.
"I tend to frequent Four Seasons and Collector's Coin Gallery m'self."
I am over near Springfield although I have gone to Four Seasons a few times to pick up something they have had.
The problem is that I have no idea what to look for in a CETME and what to be cautious of. They seem to have a lot of supporters but the amount of knowledge here locally is nil. The sticker price here is $425 for a wood stock and $525 for a synthetic although I can probably get 10% off that.
pdt203
Member
Again, check perro's site. He has a list of locations and items to check. I have had mine for about 3 months, I love it.
Johnny in Huntsville
Johnny in Huntsville
BowStreetRunner
Member
perro's site is cool just because of the intro!
hehe
hehe
i read about all the things one looks for in a good CETME...
But is there a concise, easy to read, listing of things, kinda like Jim March's revolver checkout listing? I saw a bunch of CETME's at a local gunshow last weekend, and one fellow walking around trying to sell or trade his, but I didn't want to jump in without knowing all I can about the Century parts guns. (Well, that, and as a reloader, I ain't real keen on fluted chambers)
But is there a concise, easy to read, listing of things, kinda like Jim March's revolver checkout listing? I saw a bunch of CETME's at a local gunshow last weekend, and one fellow walking around trying to sell or trade his, but I didn't want to jump in without knowing all I can about the Century parts guns. (Well, that, and as a reloader, I ain't real keen on fluted chambers)
cabinetman
Member
What to look for
Perro is the last word( http://www.gunboards.com/forums/UltraBoard.cgi?action=Headlines&BID=30&SID=1268243 ) but I'll chime in here before you head over there.
The CETME is an honest-to-God assault rifle. They were imported by CIA, had their original receivers cut up, and new, semi-auto-only receivers installed. They came in three different flavors: original pressed steel receiver which was very poor quality, Stainless Steel forged receiver which worked quite well and was virtually identical to the original in shape, and finally a new, pressed steel receiver which is supposed to be even closer to the original.
Orginally, the CETME had a pressed steel receiver, btw. The SS one is the most accurate to the original in shape and size, however, and is the version I have. I don't have experience with the final version but I understand that it's very nice, indeed. There is a lot of welding on the CETME that has to be done properly for the rifle to work. Tolerances are iffy on many rifles.
Of all the "new" rifles I've purchased, the CETME has required the most amount of tinkering to get it to run correctly. First of all, you'll find that even new, the rifle will be filthy with bits of metal and grinding oil in it. To me, that's inexcusable on CIAs part. Those rifles should be immaculate when they leave the factory but they never are. That's ok, however, because I never shoot anything that I haven't disassembled and inspected myself, anyway. So, the first thing you'll do is strip it down to its bits and pieces. BTW, note that the breech is fluted to help with extraction!
These rifles love lubrication and I use Militec on mine with great success. Once you get it back together, you have one more task to do before shooting. You're supposed to rack the action at least 100 times to help it seat properly. It's going to be very tight initially. Racking it after lubing it will help wear it into it's new home. You might even go for 200. You won't harm it by doing this, btw.
Next, before shooting, check to see if the muzzle thingy (as it's called) is properly installed. Some angry beavers have actually drilled right though the barrel to install the blind pin. Some rifles have acutally have the pin protruding into the barrel!! Imagine that. So, bring a good bore light to check that out.
Finally there is a critical measurement that need to be taken. You can read about it at Perro's forum. Do a search back to about 6 months ago for "Head Space" or "Bolt Gap". Do yourself a favor to do lots fo reading on this subject beforehand.
Now don't get too nervous about all the technical stuff. There is a lot to grasp, however, as the CETME is just one of those rifles that is a little tempermental until you get to understand it. Once you get this stuff sorted out, you'll have a great rifle.
My son and I took ours out along with 12 other SA MBRs today and ended up putting more rounds through the CETME than any other. You can really bump fire that rifles extremely easily and we were able to burn 20 rounds in about 6 or 7 seconds! It's as close to full auto as I'll ever get on my own. And, holding it just below shoulder height, control is very easy. We split a bunch of milk jugs at 100 yards that way! What a blast!
So, do your homework, learn everything there is to know about this rifle, and be prepared to strip it down from new. The only tricky thing was the bolt head which pivots onto the bolt and locks. It's a little tricky but the guys at Perro's site will help you. You can even email me directly if you really get stuck.
Good luck. Just go into this purchase with your eyes wide open!
Rome
Perro is the last word( http://www.gunboards.com/forums/UltraBoard.cgi?action=Headlines&BID=30&SID=1268243 ) but I'll chime in here before you head over there.
The CETME is an honest-to-God assault rifle. They were imported by CIA, had their original receivers cut up, and new, semi-auto-only receivers installed. They came in three different flavors: original pressed steel receiver which was very poor quality, Stainless Steel forged receiver which worked quite well and was virtually identical to the original in shape, and finally a new, pressed steel receiver which is supposed to be even closer to the original.
Orginally, the CETME had a pressed steel receiver, btw. The SS one is the most accurate to the original in shape and size, however, and is the version I have. I don't have experience with the final version but I understand that it's very nice, indeed. There is a lot of welding on the CETME that has to be done properly for the rifle to work. Tolerances are iffy on many rifles.
Of all the "new" rifles I've purchased, the CETME has required the most amount of tinkering to get it to run correctly. First of all, you'll find that even new, the rifle will be filthy with bits of metal and grinding oil in it. To me, that's inexcusable on CIAs part. Those rifles should be immaculate when they leave the factory but they never are. That's ok, however, because I never shoot anything that I haven't disassembled and inspected myself, anyway. So, the first thing you'll do is strip it down to its bits and pieces. BTW, note that the breech is fluted to help with extraction!
These rifles love lubrication and I use Militec on mine with great success. Once you get it back together, you have one more task to do before shooting. You're supposed to rack the action at least 100 times to help it seat properly. It's going to be very tight initially. Racking it after lubing it will help wear it into it's new home. You might even go for 200. You won't harm it by doing this, btw.
Next, before shooting, check to see if the muzzle thingy (as it's called) is properly installed. Some angry beavers have actually drilled right though the barrel to install the blind pin. Some rifles have acutally have the pin protruding into the barrel!! Imagine that. So, bring a good bore light to check that out.
Finally there is a critical measurement that need to be taken. You can read about it at Perro's forum. Do a search back to about 6 months ago for "Head Space" or "Bolt Gap". Do yourself a favor to do lots fo reading on this subject beforehand.
Now don't get too nervous about all the technical stuff. There is a lot to grasp, however, as the CETME is just one of those rifles that is a little tempermental until you get to understand it. Once you get this stuff sorted out, you'll have a great rifle.
My son and I took ours out along with 12 other SA MBRs today and ended up putting more rounds through the CETME than any other. You can really bump fire that rifles extremely easily and we were able to burn 20 rounds in about 6 or 7 seconds! It's as close to full auto as I'll ever get on my own. And, holding it just below shoulder height, control is very easy. We split a bunch of milk jugs at 100 yards that way! What a blast!
So, do your homework, learn everything there is to know about this rifle, and be prepared to strip it down from new. The only tricky thing was the bolt head which pivots onto the bolt and locks. It's a little tricky but the guys at Perro's site will help you. You can even email me directly if you really get stuck.
Good luck. Just go into this purchase with your eyes wide open!
Rome
I've driven through Perro's forum.
Lots of reviews, with plenty of success and horror stories, but no single-point checklist for the potential buyer to print out and take with him to the gunshow. I mean, I certainly could capture, cut, paste, and condense the snippets from all those reviews and postings, but I'm editor of one website already, know what I mean?
Just wishful thinking, before I plunk down $300-$400 on a stinker of a parts CETME.
Pee Ess: Assault rifles, by definition, are select-fire capable arms that use an intermediate cartridge. The CETME and HK G3/HK91 as delivered to civilian shooters here in the US are semi-auto only, and fire the full-power 7.62mm NATO/.308 Winchester. I'd be wary of lumping a CETME or G3 in with the AK-47 or M-16.
Lots of reviews, with plenty of success and horror stories, but no single-point checklist for the potential buyer to print out and take with him to the gunshow. I mean, I certainly could capture, cut, paste, and condense the snippets from all those reviews and postings, but I'm editor of one website already, know what I mean?
Just wishful thinking, before I plunk down $300-$400 on a stinker of a parts CETME.
Pee Ess: Assault rifles, by definition, are select-fire capable arms that use an intermediate cartridge. The CETME and HK G3/HK91 as delivered to civilian shooters here in the US are semi-auto only, and fire the full-power 7.62mm NATO/.308 Winchester. I'd be wary of lumping a CETME or G3 in with the AK-47 or M-16.
Gewehr, I coulda sworn there is a "Pre-purchase checklist" like you describe on Perro's site. Maybe you haven't found it?
I could be wrong, its been 6 months or so since I was on Perro's site
Working from memory, here is my real short version of what to look for. Disclaimer--I could be forgetting important stuff so this advice is worth what you pay for it.
1. Hard cocking--will the rifle cock with approximately normal ease? A little difficulty is OK. The bolt is parkerized, so its pretty rough, but loosens up with break-in.
2. Is the bolt ground? Century ground the back of the bolt on some of these to get the headspace/bolt gap in spec. Conventional wisdom is this is automatic disqualification, though Century insists its OK and there are no reports of difficulty due to ground bolt.
3. Bolt gap (CETME equiv of headspace) should be in spec. .004 to .019, IIRC. Better double-check.
4. Alignment of sights/cocking tube. The stock sights have only about 4MOA of windage adjustment, and Cenutury build some with crooked triple frames (inclouding mine), so not enough windage to get on target. There are several fixes ( I used one fix satisfactorily) , but avoiding the problem is best.
I could be wrong, its been 6 months or so since I was on Perro's site
Working from memory, here is my real short version of what to look for. Disclaimer--I could be forgetting important stuff so this advice is worth what you pay for it.
1. Hard cocking--will the rifle cock with approximately normal ease? A little difficulty is OK. The bolt is parkerized, so its pretty rough, but loosens up with break-in.
2. Is the bolt ground? Century ground the back of the bolt on some of these to get the headspace/bolt gap in spec. Conventional wisdom is this is automatic disqualification, though Century insists its OK and there are no reports of difficulty due to ground bolt.
3. Bolt gap (CETME equiv of headspace) should be in spec. .004 to .019, IIRC. Better double-check.
4. Alignment of sights/cocking tube. The stock sights have only about 4MOA of windage adjustment, and Cenutury build some with crooked triple frames (inclouding mine), so not enough windage to get on target. There are several fixes ( I used one fix satisfactorily) , but avoiding the problem is best.
mattjoe
Member
Frosty- 525? that seems excessive.
I picked mine up last week from Northeast Traders in North Attelboro, now he didnt have this in stock, and I had him get it and 2 others for some friends, so we all paid up front, but after tax, and transfer costs, they came to 350 each.
These are the new ones with the black plastic.
First thing I did was get it home and take it apart and clean, it was a bit of a chore, and even harder getting it back together as I had the problem with the little roller lockers on the bolt. I probably should have gotten on the computer and searched for how to get it back together, but by then i was covered in oil and grease.
Did the yanking the charging handle thing back about 150 times
Took it to the range the next day, only put 50 rounds through it, as i haven't bought a case of ammo yet, worked flawlessly. I don't really know how to adjust the sights yet, but did find it to be a bit to the left, no big thing as far as i'm concerned at the moment. Was able to hit a bowling pin and a 4 inch steel square at 50 yards. Not a huge accomplishment, but figured that was fine for the first time shooting it and never having put shots on paper.
When i get a bunch of ammo, then i'll see what it does accuracy wise. But for 350, with 3 20 round mags, and some silly looking thing that maybe holds 5 rounds, I think I got an awesome deal.
Bought 10 more mags from Tapco for like 3 bucks a mag, and i'm still under 400 for a really nice looking large caliber rifle.
I picked mine up last week from Northeast Traders in North Attelboro, now he didnt have this in stock, and I had him get it and 2 others for some friends, so we all paid up front, but after tax, and transfer costs, they came to 350 each.
These are the new ones with the black plastic.
First thing I did was get it home and take it apart and clean, it was a bit of a chore, and even harder getting it back together as I had the problem with the little roller lockers on the bolt. I probably should have gotten on the computer and searched for how to get it back together, but by then i was covered in oil and grease.
Did the yanking the charging handle thing back about 150 times
Took it to the range the next day, only put 50 rounds through it, as i haven't bought a case of ammo yet, worked flawlessly. I don't really know how to adjust the sights yet, but did find it to be a bit to the left, no big thing as far as i'm concerned at the moment. Was able to hit a bowling pin and a 4 inch steel square at 50 yards. Not a huge accomplishment, but figured that was fine for the first time shooting it and never having put shots on paper.
When i get a bunch of ammo, then i'll see what it does accuracy wise. But for 350, with 3 20 round mags, and some silly looking thing that maybe holds 5 rounds, I think I got an awesome deal.
Bought 10 more mags from Tapco for like 3 bucks a mag, and i'm still under 400 for a really nice looking large caliber rifle.
iamkris
Member
Here you go...
Here's the "buyer's guide to buying a CETME". I printed one of these out to take to a gun show as I insp[ected them. http://www.cetmerifles.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=120
BTW, I ended up buying a Century G3 'cause I didn't want to mess with teh ground bolt stuff and there are more (better condition) parts available. The G3 still required some tinkering (trigger work and ejector work...but only a total of about $50 worth of gunsmithing) to get it to run right. It is 100% now.
$525 is WAY overpriced. You shouldn't have to pay more than $300 + shipping plus transfer fee. That should keep you under $350 unless the dealers around you like to gouge people. SOG, AIM, FAC all have CETME's price this way.
Here's the "buyer's guide to buying a CETME". I printed one of these out to take to a gun show as I insp[ected them. http://www.cetmerifles.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=120
BTW, I ended up buying a Century G3 'cause I didn't want to mess with teh ground bolt stuff and there are more (better condition) parts available. The G3 still required some tinkering (trigger work and ejector work...but only a total of about $50 worth of gunsmithing) to get it to run right. It is 100% now.
$525 is WAY overpriced. You shouldn't have to pay more than $300 + shipping plus transfer fee. That should keep you under $350 unless the dealers around you like to gouge people. SOG, AIM, FAC all have CETME's price this way.
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