I was just thinking about how much of a load is placed on the frame (Brass or Steel) between two navy framed revolversm loaded to factory recommended charges, One in .44 caliber, and the other in.36 cal..
If loaded with a standard weight ball and wad would the .36 with it's smaller barrel. and chamber put more pressure on the frame tham an equally safe loaded .451 Ball and powder charge?
Brass frames are notorious for stretching and if a guy wanted to keep his revolver shooting longest, which Caliber should he consider?
I have one of the Brass Framed .36's and really like it! The Brass frame feels self-lubricated and cocks like butter as does the trigger action!
I normally load a .451 pure Lead Ball with aPistol wad and a little filler (COW), and have experienced no problems yet. i think the load is weak enough and It only gets fired about15 to 20 shots occasionally. Maybe once every month.
It's a pretty accurate charge and ball, a real fun gun to shoot!
I'm just wondering if i'd have been better off buying the .36 for longitibitys sake and strain on the frame?
Thanks
ZVP
If loaded with a standard weight ball and wad would the .36 with it's smaller barrel. and chamber put more pressure on the frame tham an equally safe loaded .451 Ball and powder charge?
Brass frames are notorious for stretching and if a guy wanted to keep his revolver shooting longest, which Caliber should he consider?
I have one of the Brass Framed .36's and really like it! The Brass frame feels self-lubricated and cocks like butter as does the trigger action!
I normally load a .451 pure Lead Ball with aPistol wad and a little filler (COW), and have experienced no problems yet. i think the load is weak enough and It only gets fired about15 to 20 shots occasionally. Maybe once every month.
It's a pretty accurate charge and ball, a real fun gun to shoot!
I'm just wondering if i'd have been better off buying the .36 for longitibitys sake and strain on the frame?
Thanks
ZVP