Changing caliber in Savage 112 rifle.

Status
Not open for further replies.

22/17 SHOOTER

Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
47
Location
NE ohio
Gentleman.
Quick and dirty. If i wanted to change caliber from 22-250 to .308 in Savage 112 rifle, swapping the barrel will be enough ? Done by the gunsmith of course.
I believe 22-250 is using the necked down .308 case so the bolt face and extractor will work, yes ? I'm not really worrying about the internal magazine as i'm not going to use it. Strict single shot rifle in mind.
Also, will you go with Savage barrel in .308 or aftermarket one ?
Need a quick answer here.
Thanks,
Cezar.
 
yes, it will work. Get custom barrel, they a bit more expensive but quality 120% better. Try Northland Shooters Supply http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/board,64.0.html they got wide selection of custom barrels from Shilen, CBI by Krieger and McGowen. I would rate Shilen first, CBI second then McGowen. And you don't need gunsmith, all you need is Savage nut wrench and and action wrench and go-nogo gauges.
 
go to ershaw.com
you can do the swap yourself all you need is a barrel nut wrench. it cost me 300 dollars for my barrel, it is a stainless spiral fluted. the swap is easy takes about 10 minutes. I have ordered 5 barrels fromthem with no issues.
 
Actually, the 22-250 is a necked down Savage 250-3000 case. The base dimensions of the 250 Savage are based on the 30-06. The .308 came about much later although it's based on the '06 as well.
 
You guys must have one heck of a grip! How are you removing the barrels w/o a barrel vise?
there's a trick to it that once learned will bust loose even the most gorilla tight bbl nut in one go.

In essence you use the recoil lug to gain torque not the bbl



ETA the added expense of a Shilen or McGowan bbl is WELL WELL worth it. Er Shaw is OK amongst factory grade tubes but can't hold a candle to a custom hand lapped bbl.
 
Last edited:
mtncreek - it's one of the advantages to the Savage bolt action - they use a barrel nut. I'm about to buy one because of it, just need a couple of correct wrenches to change the barrel.
 
you still need Savage action wrench, when combine with Savage barrel nut wrench it works without barrel wise.
 
you still need Savage action wrench, when combine with Savage barrel nut wrench it works without barrel wise.

DO NOT use an action wrench on a savage!!!

The action itself can be easily twisted if ANY torque is applied.

Use the recoil lug for leverage, that's why it has a locating tab on it that locks into the action.


I've changed prolly 20 savage barrels not once have I used anything other than the bbl nut wrench and something to hold the recoil lug.

Tapatalk post via IPhone.
 
Last edited:
DIM, would you consider doing this for me ? Looks like you have most of the tools already, maybe the gauges too ?
Let me know,
Cezar.
 
that's not me in the video, I just use his steps, so you can say I learned from him.
 
OK, but the question remain.
Do you have all tools that are needed and will you consider swapping the barrels for "customer" like me ?
If so, what are your conditions ? PM me if you think you can do it.
Thanks,
Cezar.
 
R.W.Dale,

Could you go into more detail about how you change your savage barrel without using a barrel vise or action wrench? I'm about to turn a 30-06 into a 338-06, and I've been putting off trying to jury-rig a barrel vise. I'd be quite pleased if i could skip that part altogether. Also, what torque to do you usually turn the nut to when putting a new barrel on? Sorry to derail, but thanks in advance.
 
The correct action wrench for the Savage "locks" onto the recoil lug for leverage. No chance of twisting the action.

I tighten mine snugly by hand and then give it one sharp jerk on the nut wrench to cinch it down.
 
R.W.Dale,

Could you go into more detail about how you change your savage barrel without using a barrel vise or action wrench? I'm about to turn a 30-06 into a 338-06, and I've been putting off trying to jury-rig a barrel vise. I'd be quite pleased if i could skip that part altogether. Also, what torque to do you usually turn the nut to when putting a new barrel on? Sorry to derail, but thanks in advance.

I take some masking tape ad put a layer over/around the recoil lug action. Then take a LARGE crescent wrench and tighten it over the recoil lug. Then place the bbl nut wrench uber the barrel.

Now I thought this next part sounded silly when the guys over on savage shooters first explained it to me too

Now lay the action bbl flat on a non marring surface such as wood or carpet. Next clock the nut wrench so that it and the crescent now has the action elevated off the "floor" slightly. Place your foot in the middle and start to apply your weight. MAKE SURE YOU'RE NOT TIGHTENING

At some point the pressure and leverage will break the nut loose. I've had the most insane gorilla tight 110e series nuts from the 80's come loose with me only having to "bounce" once.


Going back togeather the nut doesn't have to be especially tight to do it's job. But be careful, as you do lock the nut in it tends to carry the bbl with it a couple degrees and as a result closes the headspace slightly. DO NOT have a headspace gauge in the chamber when performing this step! Or a damaged chamber could result


Tapatalk post via IPhone.


I noticed the action wrench in the vid isn't really what I was used to calling an action wrench. One of those would be AOK.

In fact as a fabricator one day I'm gonna cut out a wrench that looks just like a supersized 1911 takedown too just for savage recoil lugs
 
R.W.Dale,

Thanks a lot, I've been looking for a method like that to no avail, definitely going to give it a try this weekend. I assume the crescent wrench can be used when re tightening a new barrel, maybe sans the stepping on it step? Thanks again.

Jeff56,

I'm not very knowledgeable on this, but from what i've read, I think the small shank barrels/receivers are the standard size for savage. Back in the mid 2000's savage started making a large shank barrel/receiver to accommodate short magnum cartridges. Perhaps some of the target actions also use the large shank system? Just a thought, i'm sure someone in the know will chime in.
 
"Do you have all tools that are needed and will you consider swapping the barrels for "customer" like me ?"

Tools, yes, but I just don't see how, I do not have FFL so you can't send me your rifle.
 
Barrel Vise vs No Barrel Vise

I had no trouble removing the barrel nut (had the proper tools for that), but my cheap butt would not allow me to order a barrel vise for my project.:banghead:

I made a couple of 'barrel vises' to fit in a normal shop vise. The reason I made a couple was because the first one wouldn't do the job!

IMLE, the barrel removal was the hard part, not the nut.
 
I like the guy in Dim's video: he's got guns and bikes!

Of course I'm also jealous: he's got the tools and knows how to use them!
 
There's two barrel shank sizes but unless you're working with a WSM or "target" action like my current rig you SHOULD have the common small shank action.


Not that it's hard to get bbl's for either size


Tapatalk post via IPhone.
 
The aftermarket makes a lot of different calibers in a large shank barrel. If they don't have one in stock it's a simple matter to get one made. You realize that to go from .223 to .308 you'll have to replace the bolt head as well, right?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top