Shrinkmd
Member
I've read and reread everything I could find here and elsewhere. It looks like the consensus is:
1) Spray windex with ammonia down the barrel and on the bolt face at the range.
2) Dry patch after a few minutes
3) Repeat
4) Maybe pour some hot water (I have my coffee thermos for this) with a little dishwashing soap in it
5) Some more dry patches
6) Definitely clean "as usual" that same day
For a bolt like a mauser or mosin, do people take the whole bolt down and also windex/hot soapy water it? Or is the bolt face sufficient? I know how to take it apart (Thank you surplusrifle.com!) but the more I have to clean the fewer guns I'm going to bother taking to the range!
Also, I found one site somewhere which suggested cleaning other parts of the gun, too, which might have some corrosive contamination, like areas of the barrel under the wood, the trigger group, etc. Has anyone else found a need for that? Corrosive ammo is cheap, but if I need to obsessively disassemble the whole rifle perhaps the Wolf is worth it? Then again, I think about 98% of the posts/sites I've seen make no mention of this, and only focus on bore, chamber, bolt, and the bayonet if you fix it prior to shooting corrosive.
Wish me luck on Saturday! I headspaced my 91/30 with one of the Yankee Engineer gauges, and it passed with flying colors. Just need to recheck the firing pin protusion, dry patch the barrel, and it's off to the races.
I wonder if there is any correlation between being a milsurp person and a computer builder type? Maybe a poll for another day.
1) Spray windex with ammonia down the barrel and on the bolt face at the range.
2) Dry patch after a few minutes
3) Repeat
4) Maybe pour some hot water (I have my coffee thermos for this) with a little dishwashing soap in it
5) Some more dry patches
6) Definitely clean "as usual" that same day
For a bolt like a mauser or mosin, do people take the whole bolt down and also windex/hot soapy water it? Or is the bolt face sufficient? I know how to take it apart (Thank you surplusrifle.com!) but the more I have to clean the fewer guns I'm going to bother taking to the range!
Also, I found one site somewhere which suggested cleaning other parts of the gun, too, which might have some corrosive contamination, like areas of the barrel under the wood, the trigger group, etc. Has anyone else found a need for that? Corrosive ammo is cheap, but if I need to obsessively disassemble the whole rifle perhaps the Wolf is worth it? Then again, I think about 98% of the posts/sites I've seen make no mention of this, and only focus on bore, chamber, bolt, and the bayonet if you fix it prior to shooting corrosive.
Wish me luck on Saturday! I headspaced my 91/30 with one of the Yankee Engineer gauges, and it passed with flying colors. Just need to recheck the firing pin protusion, dry patch the barrel, and it's off to the races.
I wonder if there is any correlation between being a milsurp person and a computer builder type? Maybe a poll for another day.
